20 Most Recent 1986 Plymouth Voyager Questions & Answers

Blown engine head & or head gasket.

gently turn screw all the way in until it bottoms out. then out 1 and 1/2 turns.

http://www.autorecalls.us/aut-03/recalls/1986/plymouth/voyager/index.html

this link takes you to auto recalls. they apparantly have all recalls issued for all cars.

this link takes you to the page for 1986 plymouth voyager.

hope this helps

Change the coolant sensor but make sure the coolant is full up in the radiator. When this sensor malfunctions, it sends the incorrect signal to the computor & it stays in the incorrect timing mode & the car stalls. The sensor is close to the thermostat housing. Good luck. When the engine is hot, unplug the sensor & it will start immediately. Again, good luck!

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This is difficult due to the fact there are several types of Catyltic Converter set-ups. However here is a generic procedure.
1. Only work on this with the exhaust completely cooled
2. Jack-up the vehicle (all four tires) and support it with jackstands.
3. Disconnect the negative side of the battery.
4. Spray penetrating oil on all: Clamps, Bolts and allow it to penetrate in. Honestly, go get a set of stripped bolt head sockets both Standard (American) and Metric sizes. I have always stripped at least one bolt head when working on any exhaust system.
5. Disconnect the electrical connection going to the Oxygen Sensor.
6. Remove the Oxygen Sensor.
7. Remove all the Bolts from all the connections. If you have them use multipoint sockets versus pentagon sockets. You may have to position your body several different ways to gain access to the bolts. You may also have to use both ratchet sockets and box open/closed end wrenches. You may also have to use bar extenders to reach the bolts.
8. Remove all Hangars for the entire Exhaust System including the Muffler and Tailpipe.
9. There may be a metal band clamp(s) where the pipe from the converter connects with the pipe before the muffler. Loosen and remove any of these type clamps. These clamps can be completely removed from the pipe. Underneath these clamps you can see where the pipes join. Spray these areas with Penetrating Oil. Bang hard in this area of the pipe connections with a rubber mallet or hammer to loosen the connection. Separate the pipes.

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

John, it's not your fault if you followed the Haynes Maunual as their instruction WAS WRONG.
You need to:
1. Behind where the Alternator used to be there is an electrical box mounted on the back wall. Take it off.
2. The Black Mounting Brace where the Alternator used to be. There are 15mm bolts down on the front of the Engine holding this on. You need to take out the top ones and just loosen the bottom one enouth to rotate this Black Mounting Brace out of the way. These Bolts are a little difficult to see. Use a mirror and flashlight and/or feel. A rotating closed/open wrench-ratch combo works best.
Let me know if this worked..I know it will I had the same problem when I first did mine.

Starter?

Have it scanned for codes free at autozone or Pep Boys & go from there.

Just a shot in the dark here. Mikuni carbs were problamatic on that engine. I remember them well. They had internal vacuum leaks and diapragm leaks just like you describe. I dont kn ow if you can get it any more but the fix used to be a new reman carb. they were not rebuildable. But I always wondered why you coul not have a base plate adapter made by a machine shop to adapt any other simpler carb to it? as long as your cfm rating was the same--ya know? Like take a holley 2 barrel off a k-car and adapt it on. Anyway I hope I helped. But that is what it sounds like. Carb replacement. Thanks

the plastic has swelled, replacement is the answer ,or remove the flap and trim it to work in box

replace relay with new one ,start there.

This can be caused by the flexing of the calipers. You might try cleaning and greasing the glide pins.

You need to by pas the relay

after 3yrs the back latch is broke and I hardly used it and GM wants $280 to fix it that is an $80 part the rest labour and Tax what a rip off

need to test float mechanism in the tank .Sorry this is not a answer you want like fit a new fuse number whatever ? on top of the tank under the back seat is access to the unit ,use a multimeter :