1992 Cadillac DeVille - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528025ebac,Did you blow a head gasket?After removal get a flat edge and check it for warpness,if okay then get a gasket set.If not,then a machine shop can mill it down.

Let the engine cool, remove radiator cap, start the engine let it warm up.Make sure the radiator is full. Look in the radiator for a bubbling mist. that is the sign of a bad head gasket. Also caddies with aluminum blocks require special coolant.

No on the question about the starter being the cause.You said you poured gas in - I assume you mean in the tank.If it sounds like it wants to start we will assume the plugs are getting spark from the dist cap. If the pump is failing, you may not have enough fuel pressure.I would either check fuel pressure or pour some fuel into the throttle body and try it. You could also use carb cleaner in a spray can.You need to figure out if it is a fuel or ignition problem to proceed.

Lots of things...First the lack of outside air coming across the condenser. Also you may have an electrical fan that does not work or a mechanical one that does work properly. You could also have a problem with your cooling system (radiator is low) and the heat from that system is transferring to the very nearby condenser for your ac system.Or the most common problem is likely to simply be low refrigerant or Freon if you prefer that term.good luck

Some models have a bleeder valve located on or near the thermostat. Not all manuals will show this vital component. If yours has one( if your coolant recovery bottle is above highest point of radiator you do) you need to bleed the air out of your cooling system. Do this by opening the valve until coolant comes out. Do this a couple of times as your car is getting to operating temp. should solve your problem.

Could be a relay or wiring problem.

I have a 1998 GMC Safari van in which the cruise control has quit. It didn't go all at once. It would work intermittently. Sometimes going 5 miles or so and then shutting off and then after another few miles, it would set again. This sounds to me like something getting hot. Is there a circuit breaker for the cruise control...or?I can't seem to find a good schematic/diagram for the unit. Driving me nuts! I don't want to have to buy a whole new module if there is a simple fix.Anyone?

1= test the fuse panel with DVOM OR VOM2= test the wires connector, +clean it for corrosion, or lose wires.3= see the diagram, test IVR, +test the thermistor(sensor)God bless you

Its going to be tough to diagnose if you can't duplicate the problem on demand.If the throttle position sensor is failing, it won't tell the computer the throttle has opened and the injectors need more on time.But again you won't know if that is the problem unless the problem is happening during the test.

Ken ,you will have to replace the cap,but just for the heck of it,take the cap loose and if you have some silicone spray or w.d.40 spray the inside of the cap ,let it set for a few minutes ,wipe it out ,reinstall ,and redo a water test,with a water hose ,set the water nosel on mist ,do this while motor is running . it'll give you a little time until you get a chance to change it. and it will help you pin point the problem.

to john cannon the code f means body code like air conditioner,vehicle speed sensor park switch,climate control etc.

review your manual and apply "If exist Reset " ?

This may be due to the traction control motor fouling up for the throttle cable control

It is located at the thermostat housing.

I know of 1 problem in the Northstar engine. On some year models there was a sooting problem in the valves and engine heads. The manufacturer recommends an annual application of a chemical GM sells and it is potent. This chemical requires the engine to sit at least 8 hours to overnight for the chemical to dissolve the soot.This problem can cause the valves to stick and would make the compression leak into the exhaust if an exhaust valve was stuck open. So in some cases unburned compression gases could flow into the hot muffler and cause the problems you mention.Also worthy of mention is the damage to vacuum solenoids and egr fixtures from the backfires you mention. Other problems like spark plugs and distributor systems would show up on trouble Codes as defective and misfires. But you have replaced most of this to no avail.This is because the Mechanical action of the valves can be unmonitored to some degree, more like cause versus effect. The onboard computer can show the results of the problem but not the cause.Some old testing equipment like a Vacuum gauge can show valve action. This gauge is cheap, but a little hard to find today.You really do not want to have to pull the heads off of this motor. It will cost more than the car is worth because if this is the front wheel drive model, you have to drop the engine and transmission frame and separate the body for this mechanical carriage.

Your best bet is to go buy yourself a haines repair manual for your car.It will have/show you the timing marks in there, and ALOT of other useful things as well!

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Bad gasket

Sound like a blown head gasket white smoke. Does it run hot. Blue smoke burning oil black smoke to much fuel

probably not, I dont know why they put them in the tank, it makes it a real pain to fix. Easiest way to get the tank out is to support it with jack stands, make sure the tank is empty, battery disconnected, and con a friend into helping you out.