20 Most Recent 2002 Audi TT - Page 8 Questions & Answers

i believe the audi uses two relays for the turn signals and hazzard lights so it would appear the turn relay has failed. it should be located under the dash near the steer column.... seems to me me they have some shielding under the dash so it may be hard to get to.

Look at the schematic in your glove box manual. Track down your wiring circuit controlled by that particular fuse. You either have a faulty component other than your clock or a shorted wire. This can be a real bear to figure out sometimes. Remember do not use overrated fuses for that is the easiest way to have a wiener roast with your car as the bonfire.

In my experence jack-legs instaling new stereo equipment causes this type problem many times. You never want anyone monkeying with your wiring!

I would suggest you check oil levels etc. Generally these cars suffer from the air mass meter / air sensor problems aswell as coil problems too. Did you ever get a solution to the problem?

sounds like a spike to the cluster caused this so i would suspect a faulty cluster assy

hi.
find your radio here...http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/audi/radios/radios.html

then follow link for program instructions
good luck

Cooling Fan Malfunction. Your radiator fans are most likely not working. That's why the temperature is OK when you're driving full speed and the wind is cooling your radiator. You need to check and/or replace your cooling switch module and radiator fans (most likely it's the cooling module). If you were sitting idle or in stop-n-go traffic for an extended period of time, your car WOULD overheat because the fans aren't kicking in cooling your radiator - then you would see all of the cooling system water spill out of the coolant reservoir, before this would happen your temperature gauge would go to the red and the digital dislpay would flash a thermometer (indicating you're about to overheat in 2 mintues). I hope this helps someone out there - Yes, it happened to me in the middle of nowhere.

have a good look behind the seals, there is normally drainage holes that can get blocked... and just overflow.
Jack

It is highly likely that the radio will have lost its security code whilst being disconnected from its power supply (your battery).

Any local dealer will re enter your code for you for a small charge unless you have the code stored in your radio user guide in which case you can re-enter the code yourself.

It sounds like your clutch release bearing is worn/noisey causing fault

Water on passenger side floor. could it be the pollen filter or a blockage some where. anyone else had this problem? help Im a girl

have you checked the rear brake pads on your brakes .. they have a marker made to squeel when worn out . ? just a thought .

you may have a current draw. it means when ignition is off someload drainning the battery. to check this disconnect the negative and with ign off install an ampmeter between battery terminal and post. it shoul not read more than 0.4 amp. if it does you have a draw. rate me. good luck

hi all you have to do is remove the pasanger wheel then remove the cover under wheelarch then undo bolt at bottom ov washer bottel then pump will just pull out

I've never inspected the TT for this so I'm only guessing at it, but I can tell you some things to look at based on my knowledge of my A4. On my A4 there are two screws at the top of the door panel, on the sides, which have to be removed. After that, there's a screw inside the "pull handle" of the door, where you grab to pull the door shut. The inner part of the pull handle then slides down and out, exposing two final screws. Once those are removed, the door panel lifts up and off the door. You can check the same locations on your car and see if it's set up the same, but I can't promise you'll find it to be just like mine.

It probably will require a trip to a dealership or a shop with VAGCOM (the VW/Audi diagnostic software), but I'm sure it can be done. It's going to cost an hour's labor or so though - they won't do it free, so make sure he's ready for that.

Either one of your valves isn't reconnected/reassembled properly or something else came apart . . . the procedures below will help you locate the leak which is a useful place to start.

Looking under the front bumper there is an intake air line that has two rubber couplers - one on either end. I'd check those as they are attached with simple hose clamps that can easily come off. Of course check your air filter box - it's remarkably easy to put it back together slightly out of kilter - and you'll lose your boost there too. If you are daring and have a friend you trust dearly to "drive":

1: Chock the backside of the rear wheels with real wheel chocks.
2: Set ebrake firmly.
3: Open the hood and start the car.
4: Put into reverse and "load" the engine by applying some throttle, some clutch, and as much brake as possible. The car should not move. The load should jump up your boost.
5: At the same time as #4, somebody should inspect under the hood for escaping boost. It should be quite obvious.

take that key to your dealer and make another key made for it or check and see if your key will take a new lithium battery

when you say car does not start what do you mean does it crank atleast, now the switch they replaced is just a neutral safety switch has nothing to do with our problem to me it sounds like that the crank sensor is going bad in this car

Nothing special at all - just remove the back cover on the headlamp and you'll see inside that the bulbs are pinned in place with hinged metal wire clips. Release the clips and the bulbs should come right out.