20 Most Recent 1996 Audi A6 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Yes no problem ,i mean go back a few years and cars were not obliged to have them only recent emmision laws have brought about the introduction of them

r 134a

A sudden failure to receive fuel, with a good fuse, would indicate the fuel pump has died. It is possible there is a bad wire, or the fuel pressure sensor has gone bad, but usually it is a failed pump. You can check the fuel filter, but usually this will cause problems at high loads/rpm before becoming completely clogged. Remember, you may have more than one. A service manual will give you good instructions on how to find and test your filters and how to replace the pump. It is important in both cases to relieve the fuel pressure, just in case. I have changed a few electric fuel pumps and if that is your problem I hope your tank is mostly empty, you have a good friend and access to a pair of jack stands and a hydraulic floor jack.

I had no heat after replacing the water pump on my 96 Audi A6 quattro. After reading the last post, I found a bleeder on one of the hoses going to the heater core. I just turned it and it allowed the air to escape. Then I had heat.

A friend of mine has a 96 A4 with an automatic, with basically the same symptoms as you are seeing. What we found on his car was that the TCU (transmission control unit) was bad. It's under the carpet, passenger front. Pull up the carpeting and you'll see a black box with a big cable going into it - that contains the TCU. We put a TCU from a tiptronic car in, and the behavior of the transmission changed dramatically. It was not a fix (tip and non-tip TCUs can't be interchanged) but we did see that it wasn't a band problem in the transmission - whereas with his original TCU he had to drop it to low gear and get the car moving before it'd shift for itself, with the tip TCU the car would start out in drive just fine, but wouldn't go over 3rd gear. He's sourcing a TCU now to replace his.

Your alternatives for this would be (in my recommended order) - rebuild your TCU via www.modulemaster.com, buy a used one with matching numbers from www.shokan.com, or cringe as you go to a dealer to shell out almost $1600 for a new one. ModuleMaster has a great reputation in the Audi community for quick turnaround, great work, and warranty-backing of its work, and Shokan is an Audi-specific salvage yard in upstate NY that deals in these cars exclusively. Check them out and I am sure that either can supply you with a functional TCU.

• On this vehicle the thermostat is behind the timing cover and you have to remove a cam gear to get to it. It is one heck of a job. Says to allow 2 1/2 hours in a mechanic shop. I suggest this one be done by someone that is mechanic savvy. This is not a job for an amateur.
• I have uploaded a picture so you can visualize it's location as well.
• Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Oil pressure sensor on cylinder head ===

Oil pressure switch on upper oil pan===

For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!!
For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow:
1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose!
2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper.
3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease).
4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier.
5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston.
6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservoir, and emptying if neccessary!
7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing.
8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward).
9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier.
10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm.
11. Install both caps.
12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!!
Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!

The thermostat on most internal combustion engines controls the flow of coolant to the radiator and this is fed into the top tank of the radiator.

The bottom hose is normally at the inlet to the coolant pump.

Vehicles with AC will have two radiators, and even some, a third for transmission or oil cooling but the largest of them will be the one handling engine cooling.

Locate the topmost hose of the radiator and simply follow it back toward the engine and it is normally connected to a dome-like fitting, under which you will find the thermostat.

If you are experiencing overheating though, it may not be a failed thermostat; this can be caused by a radiator blocked with debris, an internally collapsed hose and worst case, a failing head-gasket. The latter can fail in several places and overheating is often caused by the failure of it between coolant channels and one or more of the cylinders. This allows passage of hot combustion gases directly into the coolant flow.

Check the following: the overflow bottle for traces of oil contamination and possible odor of exhaust fumes, the oil dipstick for a milky deposit and when the engine is running, the overflow bottle for bubbles.

Make sure the blend door flap is traveling all the way to the open position when sliding dash control to heat position.

Try to clean the idle air control motor with some appropriate spray. Check the air ducts for any crack.

Disconnect first the vacuum line from the EGR valve. Connect a hose to the EGR and cover it or **** on the hose.

IF the engine stumbles the passages are ok, you may just want to check the vacuum lines or the sensors itself. Otherwise try cleaning the EGR with cleaning spray before replacing.

had the same problem with 1997 audi and had the neutral safty switch/multi-funtion switch replaced and has been working great sence. prices vary for switch 250. to 450. so shope around for the part.