Top 10 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara Questions & Answers

you shouldent need to remove anything to replace or tighten your serpantine belt there is two pullys without grooves the one on the left should be the tensioner if you turn the bolt clockwise it looses the belt off so you can pull it off if done right you can take the belt and pull it around the fan then reverse to put a new one back on

i had the same problem, only option is garage to re set it when they give it diagnostic check. fixed mine but!!!!!!! they said i had a slight coolant leek half hour later head gasket went!!!. had it fixed now, black smoke every were and no power. think i opend a can of worms should have just sold the dam thing.
good luck

Its below the Dashboard, on the left side of your knee. You have to use a torch & locate it from under the Dashboard, Its roughly near to the Clutch Pedal.
Here, it looks like this: (The Black one is the Fuse box)

i have a suzuki grandvitara 200doesnot start only check engine light is blinking several time

your power relay supplying the glow plugs may be stuck(welded contacts)on and need replace

There are 3 different engines available in that vehicle, and the location of the O2 sensors vary depending on which engine you have. The sensors are before and after the catalytic converter in the exhaust system. So the best way to find them is to find the catalytic converter and find the little plugs, which have wires on them, screwed into the exhaust pipe in front of and behind the converter. If you have the 2.7L V6 you will find that you have two converters which are bolted directly to the exhaust manifold and hence there are 4 sensors.

2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara rear Wheel Drive working but 4wheel
is not working, dash 4wheel sign light not working

The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
   
2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
   
5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
   
6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.
   

MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
   
2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
   
3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
   
5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
   
8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

blown fuse, marked same in fuse box.

easter egg hunt 1,000,000, why?
if you scan the PCM and there are no ckp or cmp errors
why ask this, the PCM will report even 1 pulse in 10 dropped out
the FSM stated that in clear english, (factor serv. man)
scan it first, or you will go broke , I PROMISE.

double posted, why>?
well, its a H25 engines (or h27 too)
if you look at the engine,
this V6 , hood up, the left rear cam runs the cam sensor.
left as in left car door side,
i did not say drivers side, as the car is sold in UK and that be different side.
the left cam is that cam , on the left while the driver is seated in his drivers seat.
In the USA that is left side of car.

here are most the parts on this engine
see this free PDF

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/2.5L%202004%20Tracker/25L-2004-engine.pdf


the cam sensor looks like this on a scope
http://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/25v6-2004/scope-cmp.jpg


year 2000 usa, only, if not usa, nows the time to say, ok?

the below drawing is of the CKP, the cranks sensor
all this and more are in the real service manual.
or at mitchells, online, and all others too. chiltons,/alldata. etc.

why not post symptoms and ask for help
be 10x better than hunts....

not only that, we have answered this same question many times , search much?>