20 Most Recent 1998 Plymouth Neon - Page 9 Questions & Answers

first you need to check the fuses then you need to check to see that you do not have a coolant leak check to see if the coolant system is full if all ok replace the cooling fans. if the coolant level is low in the radiator you may have an air pocket in the radiator giving the coolant temperature sensor a faulty reading causing it to not turn the cooling fans on

hole in the oil pan? it sounds like it for sure

Try finding someone to help ya on this procedure. While another person tries to start it, lightly hit the starter and see if it starts to work. If it does start working, then the starter is defective. If it dont start cranking over then check your battery cables for damage, lose or corrosion. Good luck.

How does it just come off?
Did it break?
And if it did you need to loosen up the power steering pump and slide the belt on and then tighten the pump so that the belt is tight.

sounds like a clutch problem

You erased code when you disconnected battery, so you'll have to wait and see if light comes on again. If it doesn't, no worries, if it does, stop into a Pep Boys, Autozone, or similar autoparts store and ask for the free trouble code scan, and write them down. If fix isn't obvious from code read out, get back to us with code(s) and we'll help guide you from there. Much cheaper and easier doing it that way.

Have you tried adding gasline antifreeze ? Take air intake hose off where it's attached to front of throttlebody, and open throttle plate, and give a second or 2 spray of WD-40 into throttlbody. Now try starting. If it starts and runs for a second or 2, you may have a frozen fuel line.

Power may not be arriving at the switch check red/white wire coming to switch with a tester. If it doesn't have red/white check the thicker wires coming to it and make sure to check all the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box and the one in the driver kick panel area. On those may be a panel in between the driver door and left end of dash. Check any fuses mentioning HL Headlight Lamps etc. to assure they have 12v coming to the fuse. If not could be main fuse or fusible link.

Sounds like either the belts routed wrong or the tensioner isn't tensioning anymore. Any pulley that seems to have no pump alternator etc. should be one or two look for one that has a spring or with an arm that moves a wrachet could be inserted into a square hole on it to pull it back in many cases. Some wont have the fitting though and you'd have to use a pry bar or something. Any way hope it helps

check for major vaccum leaks and it none found then you may have a bad idle air control valve, that controls the idle start there, good luck.

mines douing that too ahve know idea ...let me know if you find anything at [email protected] thanks!! good luck

on the cyl head drivers side below black water outlet

I would check your battery connections first to make sure they are tight. Loose terminal connections will do this to you. Have you disconnected the battery lately?

Let me guess, you hit a bump or bang top of dash & sometimes everything works again.
Comments: May 23, 2009 - Had same thing happen in my 95' and finally figured it out.
Here's what you do. Pull the trim plate off around the speedometer cluster. 4 screws hold the cluster into the dash, remove them. Pull the cluster forward & release the connector(s) on the back & pull cluster right out. Now look in where those connector goes & you 'll see a bunch of little spade contacts. Carefully, using a pair of needle nose pliers, or good tweezers, either put a slight bend in the ends of them all, keeping pin aligned straight after, or twist the end slightly. This allows them to make better contact with the plug in the back. Now, the plug that's stuck in dash, that cluster plugs into,pop it out the back, then feed it back in through same hole it came out of, so that it is on the front side of dash panel. Now when you go to put cluster back in, just plug it to cluster, and set cluster in so that the connector is sitting in same hole it came out of, but now sitting on top, instead of behind. It feels like the cluster is not quite in where it was, but it will be o.k. Now put 4 screws back in & snug them up, but don't reef them too tight, just to avoid cracking. Put trim plate back on & give it a try.The reason for moving connector was to get it on cluster tighter too. Worked for me, sold it 4 years later, still working. Let me know how you make out. Probably take about an hour. Remember, you don't have to bend too much, just enough to make better contact. Any trouble or questions, let me know, either way, keep me posted.

have you changed the fuel filter? Have you changed the ari filter?