20 Most Recent 1989 Plymouth Voyager Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity full year make model, 'set/sit' misuse. Question moved to sub category. For a fault like that, it can only be diagnosed by an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool to record live data when it quits. You are the only person to have this issue on that make and model.

It's normally in the under hood fuse box and it'll say on top of it what's what.

www.ask.com/mfg.name/make/model/year/how/to/replace/alternator/ most auto parts store have instruction on how to remove and reinstall an alternator instructions in the parts box or ask the auto parts store to print out the installation instruction. 1. disconnect one end of the battery post. locate alternator, remove the plug or wires connect to alternator. you are going to have wrenches/sockets/ loosen the piece that got a curve in it so you can loosen the fan belts remove the belts, there maybe 2-3 bolts, they go threw the alternator case and screws into the block of motor, after removing bolts, lift alternator out, put the new one in just like you took the old unit off. tighten the belt firmly, not to tight and not to loose so the belts make noise or slip, you should have 1/2 - 1 inch play up and down. tighten all bolt, make sure belts are secure, reconnect the alternator plug and the ground thats a nut. re connect the battery start the car.

Yes, running at idle in park, and at normal operating temperature. The fluid expands a bit with higher temperatures, that is why to check it after the engine has been run a few miles.

does the temperature gauge work? most of the time, this is caused by a faulty coolant temp sensor, or thermostat.another thing to consider..... there could be an air pocket in the cooling system. you can bleed the system by finding the high point in the system, and removing the cap.also, of course be sure to test that there is voltage at the fan!check all fuses and relays

could be radiator fan switch, to test turn on AC and see if fan comes on, if not locate the relays for the fan and jump them out if fan comes on replace the relay (some models will have multiple relays for three speed engine fan operation. here's a link to help diagnose http://www.aa1car.com/library/electric_cooling_fan.htm

Did you loosen the tensioner pulley ?

The front three are easy enough. The back three have to be done from under the vehicle unless it is a 3.0. Posting an engine size would have been very helpful! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

the line from the valve cover to the air filter box? buy a new one, they are cheap.

Fuel pressure regulator.

Take out the screws holding the upper and lower plastic column covers together. Pull the lower cover off. Now look at the ignition switch mounting bolts, they are anti theft. If you go to "Tools n More" or "Harbor Freight Tools" you should be able to purchase the special anti-theft tip you need in a set to take the screws out. Once you have unbolted the switch putting in the new one is easy.

You should be able to replace the sections of tubing (available at the auto parts store)
and use radiator type clamps instead of those cheezy factory ones. If the fitting itself
is leaking, you may take it out and use some teflon tape (white plumbers tape)
to make the fitting more secure. If all else fails, I have retapped these with a
pipe tap by having someone hold a vacuum to pull the chips back, then installed
a brass "hose barb" to threaded pipe fitting in place of the original fitting. The pipe tap
size depends on the fitting size itself. (Last one I did was on a ford and that was 1/4
inch pipe tap). You may need to open the hole to 7/16 inch with a drill (Gently of course).
The auto parts store should carry these items as well, but any hardware store should carry
the taps.
Hope this helps.

I wasnt born yet...but im sure if you trade it in you could get 4500 or more depending on the condition

1989 I almost can`t remember seeing one of these in the past 2 decades. Anyway I used to do these all the time.
When you purchase the headlight first from a parts supplier check if the part is just a bulb. If it is a bulb -usually -9006 then remove bulb from under the hood behind headlight assembly.,by first removing plug ,then turning counterclockwise and your done. Reverse for installation. If the headlight part is a rectangle glass box, then yes you need a torx screwdriver to remove headlight trim- usually a T20 or T25 torx bit and then you need a phillps (star) screwdriver to remove the actuall headlight. Spray WD-40 on those screws..Other than that this is a very simple job to do yourself..