1995 Mercury Cougar - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is a free section on the Autozone help section. There are color coded wiring diagrams there, but getting it to work for free can be a challenge. You can look up 12 vehicles a year for free but you may have to join a free club for access.

open trunk pull clip on lock and replace it you can get locks from lumber company or auto parts stores

i would check right at the peddle there will be a two wire switch would recommend to get it working proper but if not follow paddle leaver up to switch and unplug one wire and light will never come on again

Your car has serious issues, far above a simple forum like this one. My guess is that your throttle body assembly is clogged with soot. It will have to be be removed and the TPS and Idle control valve removed. The Throttle Position Sensor could be your problem, if the spring is broken... this is uncommon but possible. The throttle body will have to be cleaned, soaked over night in gallon container of choke and throttle body cleaner. It is easy to remove, just be careful with the electrical connectors to the sensors. A simple 3/8 in racket set is all you will need. (Go to an Autozone and have them run a free diagnostic on your car's computer and they will give you a free print-out and tell you which parts are faulty, first thing.) A faulty Idle control valve with cause the rough idling, don't try to clean it... just get a new one, if it's sooted up.

somewhere in that area is the ECM so it may need need replacing check for water in all of the connections inside and in the engine compartment

The injector needs one side power and the other is control,or a ground the main sensor resposible for injector on time is the cam position sensor.

I had to use a Thunderbird, which is exactly the same part and procedure. Watch the short video. 1994 1997 Thunderbird Fan Removal

The factory makes no sift kit that would go in this car.

Kinda depends on the other variables. Your car falls into the ford IGNITION SWITCH LAWSUIT era. Basically older fords from 1980 to 98ish or so didnt have consistent pinchy welds on their ignition switches. Some models caught fire when theyd short out. Others would fail to crank, or fail to shut off or have accessory, there were various ways it failed. If this is your problem, USUALLY you will feel a difference in the rotation of the key...it will feel harder or softer than it used to or may not turn full distance like it used to. If this is the case a new switch and/or lock cylinder may be the required repair. If the key turns fully to all positions and the dashlights turn on and off in the appropriate positions, its a good sign and you may have a different problem. Another common problem would be a stuck ECM relay. there is a main relay that turns the computer on, and it is activated by the ignition switch. If the switch is working but the relay isnt, then the car cant shut down because the comuter sees relay power on, it assumes the key to be on and you wanting the car to drive. Removal of the relay should instantly stall the car. Location may be found in the owners manual or the service manual for the vehicle. Those would be my 2 easiest suggestions for not shutting off when removing the key.

It's located on the front of the engine behind the crankshaft pulley. It sometimes disguises itself as a problem with ignition, but check the MAF sensor for contamination. It will give loopy readings to the engine in the fuel system if it's dirty or contaminated with oil. Hope that helps!

Still no brake lights would indicate a bad wire. Check for power at the brake switch, repair the wire, they usually break close to the plug. This will get back the lights and shifter. The no start would be the neutral safety switch on the transmission. Usually the switch is under the shifter cable. Some have a separate switch.

New bolts are recommended, but the following applies. For 3.8-liter engines manufactured from 1994 until 1995, the cylinder head requires multiple steps in a helical sequence to bolt properly: first to 15 foot-lbs. of torque, then to 29 foot-lbs., and finally to 37 foot-lbs.. Loosen the long bolts to between 29 and 37 foot-lbs. of torque and the short bolts to between 7 and 15 foot-lbs. of torque. Then, tighten each bolt an additional 90 degrees. The last two steps--the loosening and then the 90 degree tightening--should both be performed on each bolt before moving to the next bolt.

Under neath the car...where of course you can't see thanks to dumbbb design that is anti back yard mechanics.. .Remove the four front oil pan-to-timing cover retaining bolts. These four bolts go into both the oil pan and the timing cover. For some visual guide yo can go to autozone repair guide and look at a crown vic 4.6L engine,with about same as yours, and see some help there hopefully. Good luck

Open the glove box; you'll see two buttons to the left, the lower one is for the gas tank. Get an owner's manual asap as it helps to have this. Best of luck. (here's my ride)

Check for proper fluid level. If it is in the normal range, you may need a new vacuum module or a new torque converter.

Timing is computer controlled there is no way to advance or retard the timing without changing the chip in the computer

I would suggest that you either left a vacuum line off, or if the blend doors are electric, you might have left one unplugged or a ground wire disconnected.

May be a cracked or poorly fitting distributor cap.

Check for blown fuse

replace the fuse in the fuse panel under the dash. should be under the driver side dash.