1998 Lexus LS 400 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

i think they may be deformed

the starter is located in middle of engine , to acces remove air intake chamber , its a big job

firts to do, check for dirty radiator on front car ,

what is the question???? I will guess...please don't hammer my raiting for not answering the "right question" ...

So, if you are doing a break job, and you are wondering if the rotors need to be resurfaced or machined? okay, first thing you need to do is to take a micrometer and check the thickness of the rotor. There will be minimum machineable thicknesess. If your rotor is thinner than the minnimum allowable thickness, you will not be able to machine it, and it will have to be replaced. Looking at the year of your vehicle, when were the breaks last done on it? if it was quite a while ago...you might want to consider replacing the rotors as well. If the question is on how to replace the break pads, i can't realy help you too much there, i can tell you the very basics, but you kinda just have to see it. So if you get stuck, take one side apart at a time.... If you need help on doing the actual pad change, ask back. but the basics are that you have to unbolt the caliper (leave the braket on) and pull the pads out while making sure to keep and eye on how the little springs/clips go in (if you have them, not all vehicles do). Also, caution on which break pads you put where. Some types are specific on which side of the rotor they have to be on. If this is the case, they "usually" give you instructions....Best of luck

if you diy power supply should have been checked and starter signal from switch if battery power is present at starter then there is no signal power this requires at wiring check of starter system no always a diy project

code is VVT sensor circuit malfunction (bank 2)
here is link to code site
http://www.scangauge.net/DTC/Lexus.html

There could be a hundred causes for a check engine light. First step is to hook up a computer scan tool and see what codes the computer has. The next step depends on the codes.

with the use of a 1/2 " or 3/4" ratchet and insert in square hole on the side of tension-er counterclockwise

i think this model has a line of bulbs in it ,the later ones use LCDs ,if its the later type then its a complete unit.Most likely if its the early type their will be either a clipor grub screws either side of the unit

you actually have to remove the light from the vehicle to change the bulb. if its the one in the bumper you will have to loosen that side of the bumper to get to the bulb.

Usually not. Disconnect negative battery terminal, then positive. Next remove battery hold down (type is specific to car model). Battery then lifts out and replace with correct new one. Install is reverse.

Have the battery and charging system check first. Sounds like the Alternator may have stoped charging and discharged the battery. Hope this helps. Please leave feed back.

It sounds like you ignition switch went out. I had this happen to my wife a few years ago you turn the key the acceseries turn on but nothing else. this will be a trip to the dealer. did you happen to smell something electrical burning the last time you car was working if so it is the starter switch. you will need to take it to the deales an get a ne w switch which will also involve new keys$$$

You need to just keep changing fuses until you find the right one. Bypass the old relays with a paper clip in the fuse panel with a paper clip and pliers in the in and out. When they come on you know the problem is the fuse or relay.

check under the hood for more fuses.

Sounds like the belt broke.

check engine codes. also may be a bad coil. you have 2. one on each side. it will run with 1 but vibrates very bad.

most likly the starter is out. sets below intake manifold.check relay and power supply.

bad sater. it sets under intake manifold and takes about 4 to 5 hours to replace,.

I went back and tried again and got it done.  Thanks.