20 Most Recent 1999 Jeep Wrangler - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The problem is with the evaporator drain. There is a, (usually soft flexable), tube that drains condensation from the evaporator to the outside. It is located in the passenger compartment, under the dash. The hose has, (A)-became disconnected from the evaporator. (B)- Has gotten a kink in it. (C)-Became clogged, causing the evaporator to overflow into your passenger floorboard. Your vehicle probably has some covers over these components, you will likely have to remove. Locate the hose, it typically drains just behind and inside your right front wheel. It may be concealed behind a kick panel, or may go thru the floor or firewall. You must find it and follow it to the evaporator and make sure it is not clogged or kinked and is properly connected to the evaporator.

Hello Tom,
This problem can be trouble shot by checking: The fuse. Are you 100% sure it is good? Get a new one unless you are sure. You said you replaced the resistor but still check it again to be sure it did not cook recently. It will appear crusty,melted carbon deposits. If you bought a good NEW heater motor check it again by getting or making some cheap jumper leads and by unplugging the heater connector under the hood, connect one of the leads to the battery then to one of the posts of the heater. Connect the other jumper to to the other post and to the connector on the motor. It should whirl around and scare the heck out of you it you get the polarity right : ) now, onto something more fun and where I think your problem is. Your control panel.... Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the screws from your face plate/facia/dash moulding covering your stereo/climate control panels. Screws located under eye glass basin,in back of cigarette ash bin and below I think. It pops off and exposes the screws to your climate control module. 4 screw/nuts allow you to pull out your climate module box. Check your connections. Most likely, your selector switch is melted. Perhaps even the harness that plugs into it is melted too. Replace the blower selector switch (small screw removes it) with a new one. Autozone carries them. If your wiring is toast, make a drawing of your color wires BEFORE you cut them free (what post on the switch the wire plugged onto by aligning the plug orientation to the post orientation "mated connections") and close to the connector as possible making sure the wire is good. Get some heavier gauge wiring and splice in and solder neat and strong extensions onto the cut wires. While you are at your auto store, pick up the appropriate female plug in connectors to fit over the blower speed selector pins. Solder these onto your extensions as well and liquid tape all bare wiring. Plug them onto the correct plug to the blower motor switch. YOUR VERY DETAILED DRAWING that you made. When I did this, I made my wire extensions about 8 inches long so I had plenty of room to solder and work. Check your connections,tape them to avoid shorts and use liquid tape on the blower speed connections if there is bare wire. Turn your vehicle on run through your selector speeds. You should also replace your RELAY. It is located on psngr side under glove box. Buy a good one. Replace this even if it appears to be working as they can get worn and as your motor gets worn, allow extra juice to backfeed and kill your heater components again. I hope this helps. If all of this fails your wiring harness may be cooked but I think this is your blower speed selector switch. I will be on here to check on you the next few days to see if you need any more help. Let me know how things turned out so I can help you more if needed. This is a very common problem with this model. Take care.

Unless you have a flushing machine you will not be able to empty the torque converter.If you have a 3 speed auto you are looking at 9 quarts total.If you have a 4 speed transmission you are looking at 10 half total.Be sure you check the fluid in neutral and not park.

It sounds like one of the communication paths between the ECU and various sensors is open. It could be caused by an open or broken wire in one of the wiring harnesses.

My first guess would be water or moisture in a wiring harness or wiring connector.

You engine size is part of your vin number. The number can be found on a tag on your valve cover, plus some where on the block. Look for a machined area with numbers stamped in it or factory cast numbers. I ask why do you need this? Do you think the engine was replaced or are you just trying to find size? 4 cylinder is 2.5, 6 cylinder is 4.0.

This can be caused by a few things. I have had this happen. First, check to make sure the starter bolts are tight. This is the most likely. Second, pull the starter and check to see if the gear is all there and everything is tight. Third, pull the inspection plat and check the fly wheel/flex plate has all its teeth. If everything seems ok, I would replace starter, the cheapest fix first and go from there.

Double check the fuses. If it was working prior to you messing with fuses and all of a sudden it stops, theres something you over looked while doing what you did. Let me know what you find out