20 Most Recent 2003 Chrysler Sebring - Page 9 Questions & Answers

once the code is pulled it will tell you why its on with out haveing code pulled it could be a hundred different things have code pulled

this is not a parts store, but if you went to a parts store website and looked that up, then you would know exactly how much one costs for that car. or a phone call to a parts store or dealer.

the 2.7L engine has a lot of problems, with the timing chain and water pump. So that's not surprising. I would get a remanufactured engine if its nice, or trade it in.

P0733 is detected when A/T cannot be shifted to the 3rd gear position even if electrical circuit is good.

Diagnosis monitors actual gear position by checking the torque converter slip ratio calculated by Transmission Control Module (TCM) as follows:

Torque converter slip ratio = A x C/B
A: Output shaft revolution signal from revolution sensor
B: Engine speed signal from Engine Control Module (ECM)
C: Gear ratio determined as gear position which TCM supposes

If the actual gear position is higher than the position (1st) supposed by TCM, the slip ratio will be more than normal. In case the ratio exceeds the specified value, TCM judges this diagnosis malfunction.

Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Incorrect transmission shifting

Possible Causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Shift solenoids
- Transmission mechanical problems
- Transmission hydraulic control circuit


It's probably one of two things from here either the vavle body isn't sealing well due to age or debri getting stuck in the check balls allowing fluid to get past and causing the clutches to slip. Or the TCM has an interal fault in it. Are there any other codes in it? Unless you've seen a bunch of valve bodies I dont think you'd really be able to rebuild it very easily. Its at the point with these trasaxles that its cheaper just to replace the whole unit with a reman. What did the fluid look like when you drained it? Did the old speed sensor have any metal on them? The valve body is going to be on the bottom side of the trans sitting right above the big pan you took off. I suspect that the fluid was looking pretty dark and if there was metal in the trans pan you most likely hve some of the metal in the valve body.

Hope helps.

Check ALL Grounds, Start @ Battery and Work your way around the Engine Compartment, Look for Coroded Connections / Loose ones also, there is A Black SINGLE PLUG in the Battery Area that comes Directly FROM the NEGATIVE Terminal of the BATTERY that is Problematic if it gets Moisture in it and A CYCLE of Connect & Disconnections When Cleaned with Carb Cleaner Will Correct this Poor Connection Problem. BODY GROUNDS are Also Ones to Look at. What you Discribe Is Indicative Of A POOR GROUND CAUSING the NO SPIN @ Starter. Remember that the on your Vehicle's Starter Requires at Liest 200 Amps to Start it.>>>>>> My Point being that Just Because all Electrical Components May be working Doesnt Mean the Starter Will Crank the Engine, The STARTER is the Highest Amprage DRAWING Component On ANY VEHICLE Thus A GOOD GROUND IS A MUST. This Will Help Lead you to the CAUSE<<<<<<<<< Assuming you have Charged and LOAD TESTED the Battery and it IS GOOD.

get direct from chrysler. you can buy it from their parts counter

Sounds like your blower motor resistor is blown. Located in the blower box either under dach or close to the firewall under the hood. Has two bolts holding it in usually and a plug with 4-6 wires. Remove and check first

P0440 means there is a small leak in the system called your EVAP system The strategy is base open applying a vacuum evap system and then monitoring the vacuum decay in the system To put it simply what this system dose is take gas fumes from the fuel tank and sends the to the intake manifold to be burned THERE ARE 3 THINGS YOU CAN CHECK first check your gas cap if its not sealing correctly this can give you this code This would be the easest sulition butit could be the vent solenoid witch opens to let the fumes out of the tank to go to the charcoal canster where the gas fumes are stored until the purge solenoid opens to allow the gas fumes to go to the intake manifold to be burned then agian it could be a small hole in the top of the gas tank or one of the lines going to the gas tank I under stand this may be somewhat hard to under stand but you have a small leak some where in this system and its not going to be easy to find but it dosen;t realy effect how the vehicle run that much you may have a problem getting through emissions GET the code cleared try the gas cap it may not come back the system runs 8 differant self test to come up with code every time you start the vehicle You asked a hard qustion blame chrysler not me and i hope i was some kind of help to you

doesn't seem your pump should be bad after only 7 years unless you have triple the standard yearly mileage. I would find the oil pressure sending unit and replace it before i spent any big money. look at websites for advance and autozone to see what the sender looks like, then find it under your hood and see if you can and want to change it yourself.

Parts Approx...... $70
Labour ...............2 hour. May take up to 8 Hours. It Depends on your experience how fast you get the job done.

Location. its located somewhere behind the alternater. so you must romove alternator. (Ac Compressor removal is optional)

1. Disconnect Battery Cable,
2. Raise the car on Hoist Or Jack up
3. Drain Coolant from Radiator
4. Remove Right Front Wheel and Splash Shields
5. Remove Belt and Tensioner
6.Remove Dip Stick Bolt + remove Dip Stick tube. ( cover dip stick hole so that coolant dosunt get in to oil pan) or (Do an oil change if coolant gets in to oil pan)
7. Remove Lower Alternator Bolt
8. Remove Uper Alternator Bolts (Access from the Hood).
9. Remove All the Connections to the Alternator and Ac.
11. Remove Thermostat housing bolts
12. Remove thermostat

to installl Reverse the procedure and at the end open the bleeder valve and pour in coolant slowly in to the reservoir

Start Engine

add coolant and bleed the air out.
let the thermostat valve open and cerculate coolant untill Rad cooling fan cycles.

thats it you are done!!

Open your passenger front door, get down on your knees, and peek up under the dash on the right front side of the cab in the car.There might be an access cover that pulls down, then you will see your blower motor resistor.It will have electrical wires goin to it and two mounting bolts holding it on.I hope this helps, rate me accordingly, thanks!!

Slam the shifter from neutral into park and it should be ok. Joe

please rate my answer as 4 thumbs up. Thanks.

with plugs, wires, air filter, and an oil change it should be less than 100

On the compressor between the pulley and the actual compressor body the electric clutch is. There you should find two wires that energizes the clutch to engauge. he clutch engages fequently even with the a/c off in order to keep the system fit. Disconect the connector to the clutch and it will run free. That should get you through the winter.
But keep in mind in winter alot of cars get wrecked in accidents. Keep your ears open with the wreckers for a compressor during the winter months; you will get it cheaper.