20 Most Recent 2002 Chrysler Voyager - Page 7 Questions & Answers

sounds like your heater core or you are low on water it could also be your vacum valve that lets hot water ciculate through the heater core giving you heatcheck all 3 things.

Fan relay and or temp sensor

There are sensors on each tire. They monitor brakes when you are doing hard braking. If it starts to slide on surface it triggers ABS system.If one or more sensors are out of order it disables ABS system and warns you. if this is your reason you need to check all sensors and connectors first. sometimes only connector gone broken or oxidized. you can solder it too.If sensors are ok, other elemens should be checked. ABS controller, ABS pump and if equipped electronic hand brake.

there can be several places which you can have vacuum leak.1.intake manifold. it may get cracked to find it spray some brake pad cleaner on engine when idling. if its sound changes you can find the location of crack.2.vacuum canister. it is plastic so it can be brittle in time.if it is replace it.(somewhere in car,plastic black cylinder) in most of cars near to front left fender. 3.vacuum lines ( small and rubber hoses which is used to operate hvac controls or cruise control on some designs).they are inside dash and behind hvac panel.you can cut them and fix them with adaptors.4.brake master cylinder ( rare ocasions it can vacuum air if it is broken but you will notice when your brakes are not performing well)

if it passes the stopper it has. since they are electronic needles you need to open cluster and you need to correct its position by hand.first remove negative cable from battery. then remove trims surrond bezel if any. remove top screws, remove inner screws which holds assembly in its place. remove sockets careflully. while you are there you can replace illumination related bulbs too (probably t10 type bulbs and you may try 5050 smd type led bulbs too).after taking dash board out of car, remove clips holding clear plastic on cluster. correct position of speedometer while thinking you are stopped(since car is off) and do not touch other needles since they may lost their calibration(like fuel gauge).that is all. installation is in reverse order. remember to clip sockets at back.

please check your steering fluid level. or check its condition. when steering pumps start to get older whining noise can be heard in time. (especially in cold weather, it cause fluid gets thicker)this is due to wearing internal elements it is getting harder to pump fluid or hold pressure at a level. learn to live with it until it fails(until it start to leak) and try not to turn your steering wheel to right end of its rotations.

two options.belt which turns your pump is slipping or your pump is going dead.but before deciding on a broken pump please check steering fluid. you can use either specific steering fluid or ATF to top it.

This is due to bad resistor pack used to adjust speed of blower. on 2002 it is under dash close to glove box sticking to firewall. You need to replace it with a new one. You will need two flat screw drivers to pry it off. After removing it install new one and blower motor will return back to normal.Before starting be sure that ignition is off.

I've been told on my van that my fuel filter was to blame. I had a similar problem, sometimes the car would start and sometimes it wouldn't, and when I was driving I would be stepping on the gas and the car would slow down, then all of a sudden release and I would be going fine again, as if fuel wasn't getting to the engine.

Yes, this refers to the heater inside one of your oxygen sensors. The computer is not reading current to the heater. The problem may be the wires or the sensor itself. The thing to do is to check for voltage at the sensor connector with the key turned on. This particular sensor is right on the front of the engine by the radiator. If the voltage is there, the sensor is probably bad. You can also test the sensor heater with an ohmmeter as follows:
TestingHeating Element
Before Testing any electrical component, inspect the wiring and connectors for damage. Also wiggle the connectors to ensure a that they are firmly engaged.

1. Disconnect the electrical harness from each of the sensors.
2. The white wires in the sensor connector are the power and ground circuits for the heater.
3. Connect the ohmmeter test leads to the terminals of the white wires in the heated oxygen sensor connector.
4. Check the resistance of the sensor, if it is not within 4-7 ohms, replace the sensor.

The picture below is the sensor on bank 1, by the firewall. The one you want (bank 2, sensor 1) is on the front of the engine.

Hang on...Yeah, ok, I've just realised that we're talking about two different things. When I posted my clarification request, I thought you were talking about your brake lights.You mean the brake warning, yes?Right, in which case, how do you know the brakes are fine? Has a qualified mechanic checked them out? If so, then you've got a dodgy connection there. If not, I'd say the brakes aren't fine and do need looked at.

The dimmer knob may be broken

YOne of your locking switchs is broken and is shorting itself out until it goes out on overload. Same deal with the lights.

You can remove the electric door lock switch to solve 1/2 of your trouble .. the lights. you will have to get help with.

Immobilizer? Its likely to be the 21 pin plug behind the heater control panel. Remove the long plastic strip under the control panel (prise of gently, held on by 2 clips) remove 2 screws behind this and 2 screws above on panel. The whole lot should easily come away. There will be 3 plugs, remove all three and try to start the car. If it starts your problem would be the earth. Hope it helps

Its likely to be the 21 pin plug behind the heater control panel. Remove the long plastic strip under the control panel (prise of gently, held on by 2 clips) remove 2 screws behind this and 2 screws above on panel. The whole lot should easily come away. There will be 3 plugs, remove all three and try to start the car. If it starts your problem would be the earth. Hope it helps

Get a set of A/C gauges, this web site will clear things up
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2009/04/adding-freon-to-car-ac-gauge-readings-explained/

if it didn't come with power doors it will cost a small fortune to get them installed

you need to check out the code first, for your car you can use the MaxiScan US703 Code Scanner , or you can take your car to the auto zone and check out the code.