check to see if your plugs need changing and then check your HT/LT leads on the plugs as they may be loose or water clogged somewhere or have a split wire that is just touching enabling it to fire a few times
Make sure your battery post are clean, has a 12.5 volt charge. Do not attempt to do any of this work without good mechanical knowledge and proper (PPE) personal protective equipment. consider protecting the vehicle batteries contain ACID, will be on your rags, hands and tools when working with battery and battery atyachments. Consider a though review of your shop manual...some libraries will have a copy for your vehicle. YouTube review. Do the battery cable reset proceedure. Please follow these instructions very carefully. Disconnectthe negative battery cable, then the positive cable leads from the battery, count to 30 seconds, then touch them together for another 30 seconds. Onve this is done put it all back togetherpositive lead 1st, then negativelast onto the battery. Now do another opperational check of lights and turn signals and such. If all is working normally...you will need a fuse box. If not, you will need a new turn signal switch.
pointless as you have too mix the stuff properly and put it in with the engine running
Reservoirs are just that reservoirs so putting it in there will not mix into the radiator
Radiators from the wreckers that have cars that have been rear ended will be cheaper than new ones
Radiator shops can seal off damaged cores cheaply
The fault code P1684 means that power to your powertrain control module (PCM) was interrupted. The most common cause of this is because of a weak battery. When the car is stated, the voltage drops low enough that it cuts power to the PCM for just a brief moment, which will set the fault. It can also be caused by a wiring issue to the PCM, or a bad connection in the battery cable. It may or may not cause issues with drivability. The fault should be thoroughly diagnosed by a qualified technician
What the P0700 code means. P0700 is set when the PCM detects a malfunction in the transmission control system. This malfunction causes the vehicle to set a Check Engine Light and trigger a failsafe mode. Once the failsafe mode is set it will remain until the fault is repaired or normal operation is detected
Adding to the reservoir is fine; it works to regulate the amount of coolant in the total system. When there is excessive coolant (or heat when you have a problem) the excess is purged into the reservoir. Likewise, when the engine/radiator cools down, coolant is sucked back into the radiator. (Hot fluids expand, cool contracts, and thus a vacum is created).
You are addressing the wrong problem, here. Taking the keys away was a good first step. You need to also stop driving the car. Coolant loss is a potentially serious problem, not to mention a pollution issue. Get the car to a mechanic and find the source of the leak now. You can't band-aid this. Maybe it's just a hose, but it could be a radiator. No matter what, leaks don't heal up, they only get worse until some thing fails catastrophically. Lose your cooling = lose your engine. GET IT REPAIRED before it relly costs you.
You need to check For cooling fan operation. It may be a temp sensor problem (Fan relay signal) or a bad relay. A SIMPLE TEST would be to turn on the A/C, the cooling fan should run continuous in this position. The fan should run intermittently Relative to Coolant Temp. in all other positions. Check for voltage (14v ) at fan motor harness connector . If voltage is present at the fan motor connector then most likely a bad fan motor. The temp switch ( Fan Relay signal) is located in the thermostat housing or the radiator. This engine is prone to head gasket failure so do not overheat during testing procedures.
there are 2 different sizes used are they big or small average is 1.5 to 1.75 ,but if you doing the job go to an auto parts store so you get the right ones.
The Internet, though, has a large number of web sites where
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what sites are out there:
Factory Auto manuals
http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/
search for : factory service auto repair manuals
Repair Service Manuals
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the largest collection of Automotive Repair Service Manuals
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If it is engine oil leaking, it is coming from either the valve covers, the front seal at the timing cover, or the rear seal. You state that it does not leak when parked, but in most cases, the oil will continue to drip off the engine after shut off, and you will see oil spots on the ground below the car. The location should indicate where to look for the leaking area.
If the leak is not engine oil, it could be transmission fluid, power steering fluid, or even brake fluid. With the engine running, see where the fluid is puddling below the car. This will be a very good indication of where to look for the component that is leaking.
? 10:41
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Mar 23, 2014 - Uploaded by PSYCHOTICNORMAN
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Will the starter motor crank? Do you have a shift interlock bypass button? If there is one and you have a console shifter, it should be close to the shifter, with foot on the brake, push the button down and shift into neutral, then see if it will start.
I can think of two possibilities, the shift interlock system, won't let you shift it w/o your foot on the brake and or the neutral switch/transmission range sensor, won't let you crank it unless the tranny is in park or neutral.
Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction.
it sounds like the brake servo isn't working but you should still have some better brakes than you dascribe so i would also check the master cylinder , whick is connected directly to the servo , quick check ,engine running remove, brake fluid resovoir cap, pump brake pedal and get some to look into the fluid resovoir and tell you is there are air bubbles or not , if bubbles most likely a seal has blown if no bubble then most likely a mechanical part of the brake system ie master push rod at fault , either way i'd get a mechanic to check as you dont take chance's with brakes