1997 Chrysler Sebring - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Likely to be a bad connection on the plug at the rear. Remove the plug and spray with electrical contact cleaner NOT WD40.

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Best Manuals

Could be a few different thing's . The motor , relay , BCM - body control module , the switch etc.... Looking at a wiring diagram (do you know what a wiring diagram is ? ) I see fuse #15 10amp powers the wiper switch , the switch is an input to the BCM , The same fuse supply's B+ voltage to the control side of wiper hi/lo relay & the intermittent wiper relay . The BCM will energize these relay's after it receives a input from the wiper switch . Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits using a wiring diagram an a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on body & accessories ,then under subsystem click on wiper/washer . Click the search button ,then the blue link . Having the BCM check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes would be a good first step , could point to the problem . Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know This is how to diagnose electrical problems .

Get yourself one of these: Search Or view this: Dodge Stratus Chrysler Sebring CV Axle Shaft Drive Shaft Removal and... But the easiest way is just to buy another one from Advance, Autozone, etc.. and replace it.

Check the right indicator bulb either front or back wouldnot be working replace it it will work normal.

So ,when you turn the key to start does the starter spin the engine ? a crank no start or nothing happens when you turn the key , no crank no start . 5 or 6 battery's in ten months ????? Sound's like you need to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop.

Start testing the lighting circuits with a ohm meter for shorts. Sometimes it's impossible to get to the wires without taking the entire car apart. Never do this, instead find a good part of the circuit with your ohm meter and make a connection there with a new wire. More common is switch issues or loose connectors. Obtain a shop manual for your model and refer to the electrical parts section. Don't worry about the cost of the shop manual, it will pay for itself.

Deep inside the dash, the dash must be removed to access it.

check for broken timing belt/chain check cam /crank position sensor operation check for fob key operation/ immobilizer operation run fault codes

Hi Deneice, Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair! Deneice, there are many things that can cause an engine to die while driving. (1) If you have the 2.5 liter engine they have a problem with the distributor itself going bad, I'm not sure what engine you have. (2) Fuel pump low pressure can cause dyeing while driving, you'll need to have the fuel pressure checked. Bad connection and wiring issues can cause the same thing, performing a wiggle test of all the wiring while the engine is running, CAUTION: While performing this test keep your hands away from the moving belts and parts. If you wiggle all the wiring and the engine dies while wiggling in a certain area, then you may have found a frayed wire touching metal or a bad connector. Hope this helps and if you should find the time please visit my auto repair website Here: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

Did you check the timing belt to see if it broke? It ha a 2.5 and it has belt. Remove timing cover at the front of the engine and have someone crank it while you watch the cam to see if it turns. If it doesn't turn, replace the belt.

go to an auto parts store that will give FREE battery & alternator tests. if both are confirmed good. suspect a parasitic or phantom drain. meaning, even if the the car was turned off (no key in ignition), there's a load (in addition to computer, radio, security system memories= these have neglible draw) which is still drawing current from the battery.

Now,it's time to check the starter out,a clicking noise means starter is bad,you have to remove and take to auto part store and they will test for free,your battery was probably good.Here's a link on a repair guide on replacing your starter Gabriel. Repair Guides Starting System Starter AutoZone com

The Flasher is located: Behind A/C and heater control panel, in center console.

Flashers

Print REPLACEMENT Flashers are located either on the bottom of the fuse block or on a module under the dashboard. They are replaced by simply pulling them straight out. Note that the prongs are arranged in such a way that the flasher must be properly oriented before attempting to install it. Turn the flasher until the orientation of the prongs is correct and simply push it firmly in until the prongs are fully engaged.clink on link to see what flasher look's like. http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-flasher/novita-turn-signal-flasher/chrysler/sebring/1998/4-cylinders-y-2-0l-mfi-dohc/193143_0_7283

there is a 13 mill bolt or 10 mill down be side the battery on the long side

For 300 bucks you can have a new top WITH a rear glass window. It's really not worth messing with for that price. Otherwise, consider Duct tape. :(

How hard is kind of a relative term.
It kind of depends on your level of expertise.

Changing a convertible top is not a simple nut and bolt job.
I worked in a trim shop for 19 years, and I can do them, and even so, they put up a fight from start to finish.

I suggest if you have never done a convertible top before, or you do not have access to someone that has done convertible tops before not to try it on your own.
The tops are fairly expensive, and you can damage them very easily during installation.

A job like this is best left to a trim shop (Automotive Upholstery).
Because of all the steps involved, it is not considered a novice job.

it would begin to run rough and lose power

I bought cheap $100 fuel pump instead of 200 and have trouble with gauge cutting in and out all the time. Also can't go below 1/4 tank or it will lose prime because check valve doesn't work. Check wires are on good and the numbering. Did similar work to mine. Mine was cutting in and out while driving. Loss power and then gained power back and rpm tach would go nuts. It was the crank sensor.

Under the hood just unattache the battery cables if not under the hood look in your trunk