1994 Chrysler Concorde - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I would like to know what that the deal is with that connector also. There's another one in the same area plus one on the driver's side between the battery and wheel well. All three are disconnected.

I suggest you try one of those instant download manuals. My nephew bought one for me when my car broke and we could fix it all by ourselves with the manual costing $10. This website reliable-store.com is very good for this. ?Try there live chat for better help also try manualslife.com but there's not live chat option there. these 2 are pretty good with repairing stuff. really good

How long since a tune-up? Check fuel--spark when problem is ongoing. I always check for codes even if the lite isn't on. Of course if the mil doesn't work that presents a problem. The procedure below for using the mil to check codes.

move the key up and down see if come back on , if it does look at ing. switch

Voltage drop test starter system ( cables ) Starter Voltage Drop also try moving gear selector to neutral (park neutral safety switch ) How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

You may have a faulty BCM (body control module) it is what turns on all the accessories when you press the switches. I don't know of any other part that could cause all of these systems to stop working. I assume you have checked all the related fuses, both in the car and under the hood.

there could still be water in the blower motor from the leak that shorts the power. you should remove the fuse for the heater until it has dried up ..or open it up and dry the inside yourself

Feels like walking into a conversation, but missing the first few paragraphs... "This just started". Unfortunately, we don't know what "this" actually is, nor what light went out. You did check the oil level, right?

Hello Thomas, Not enough oil in the engine. Maybe Incorrect grade of oil. Check and carefully top up if necessary. Or possibly a defective Oil Pressure Sensor. This link might be helpful, try it. Good Luck! JP http://www.automotiveforums.com/f128-2_concorde.html

Test the battery and see if there is enough power to run the starter. If so then clean the starter cable connections. If not try a jump start.

You should not have to reset anything but the radio. i would get a trouble light and start checking from the battery to the starter.

although you can open the door with a key ,unless the alarm system senses a fob key signal it will assume that the door is being opened illegally and will set of the alarm keys can be cut for all cars requiring a key fob unit but the alarm is not cancelled and the engine will not start you may have to get another key fob and have it programmed to the ECM system

What you are reading is a 1-2 (12) and a 5-5 (55). The 5-5 is always at the end of the code string. The 1-2 (12) indicates that the battery was disconnected and the ECU (computer) has been reset.

Check for broken wires going through the driver's side door. Broken wires account for many window failures when multiple windows won't work from the master door switch.

They use the same harness on many cars. Some connectors don't have a mate.

On these LH body cars, camber is not adjustable. Neither is caster. Those angles are preset by the suspension geometry. However, specifications for them ARE published. Generally, if either of those two parameters are out of spec, then it's likely something is worn or damaged and needs to be replaced. The only adjustable parameters are to the front and rear toe but specified as "Total Toe" - see note below. The alignment specs are as follows ... ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS AT VEHICLE CURB HEIGHT A. FRONT WHEELS

1. CAMBER Acceptable -0.6° to +0.6° Preferred +0.0° Side to Side Differential Acceptable 0.7° or less Preferred 0.0°
2. TOTAL TOE - Specified in degrees. See Note Below Acceptable 0.4° in -to- 0.0° out Preferred 0.2° in
3. CASTER* (reference angle) Acceptable +2.0° -to- +4.0° Preferred +3.0° *Side to Side Caster Difference not to exceed Acceptable 1.0° or less Preferred 0.0°

B. REAR WHEELS

1. CAMBER Acceptable -0.6° -to- +0.4° Preferred +0.1°
2. TOTAL TOE** - Specified in degrees. See Note Below. Acceptable 0.2° out -to- 0.4° in Preferred -0.1° in **TOE OUT when backed onto alignment rack is TOE IN when driving.
3. THRUST ANGLE Acceptable -0.15° -to- +0.15°

Note: "Total Toe" is the arithmetic sum of the left and right Toe settings. Positive is Toe-in. Negative is Toe-out. Total Toe must be equally split between left and right wheels. Left and Right Toe must be equal to within 0.02° (2 one hundredths of a degree). Courtesy RJK & Concorde Shop Manual

The ABS function is always on by default. You cannot just turn it off and on. It only functions during hard or panic stops to prevent the car from skidding out of control. You'll feel a pulsation in the brake pedal under those conditions as it alternately reduces, then re-applys, the brake pressure on any wheel that's beginning to skid. It does this by monitoring the speed of each wheel, then comparing those speeds to one another. When a wheel is detected to be slower than the others, it indicates a skid is happening, or about to happen, on that wheel. The pressure is then momentarily reduced on that wheel to allow it to regain traction.

If the wipers work, but won't shut off, the likely culprit is the wiper switch.

FM requires a good antenna connection. Check the connection at both ends, and check for any damage to the antenna cable. If you have the rear mounted power antenna, the cable runs forward under the carpet to the dash. If the antenna is good, then the FM section of the radio has failed.

The gas assist struts should be replaced in pairs - one at a time.

1. Prop up the hood in such a way as to take all the weight off the struts. You can cut a piece of wood to the right length in order to do this. Alternately you can ask a strong person to hold up the hood while you work - but it's not advised.
2. The struts have ball sockets at each end. They're locked in place by a metal band. Insert a thin narrow tool into the groove under the center of the band and pry the band up until the socket disengages. Do this at each end.
3. With all the weight off the strut, disengage it from the hinge and discard.
4. The new struts should come with the metal band in the disengaged position. If not, disengage it, but do not remove it completely.
5. Push each end onto its respective hinge ball until seated, then snap the locking bands into place.
6. Repeat for other side.