20 Most Recent 1994 Chrysler Concorde - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Wiper motor is bad...auto parts store or junk yard...not a difficult swithch out...you can remove the whole arm assembly to make it easier with just a few bolts...:)

Hello, first if the car has over 75,000 miles you should use high mileage oil. If memory serves correct i believe they take 4.5 quarts of oil. buy 5 and add 4 then start the engine and let it run for about 30 seconds then check the dipstick and add accordingly. it is winter so you should tend to run a lighter weight oil. Again this all depends on how many miles the engine has, under 100,000 5w30 and higher than 100k use 10w30. But be sure to change the filter and not ignore it because it is just as important as the oil. Hope this helps and answered your questions. good luck

Most are located a few feet in front of the fuel tank. Also some are inside the tank

No. But it could have been something the transmission guy did. The drive shafts had to be removed to rebuild the transmission. There are sensors on both wheels for the abs system. theycould have been damaged or the wire could have been cut.

Without inspecting the vehicle it is hard to tell you what the problem is or what repairs will cost. Be aware if your wheel or axel is not secure it is unsafe to move this vehicle and may result in injury or death.have someone who knows what their doing look at it before driveing it .

Its standend location drivers side under the dask around the steering wheel area the code sensors fit all cars after 96 well mostly all cars in america

Okay i have had this problem with many of these cars. You probably lost connection with the computer. The way to tell is if you turn the key on and off 3 or more time and then leave it in the on position, the check engine light should start flashing. If it don't that means the computer has lost communication. Every time I had had this problem I found a corroded fusible link in the wheel well on the driver side just under the battery. You will have to pull the inner fender off and remove a lot of tape and wire casing to find it. Once you find a black fuseable link it may have a green powdery looking stuff on it. If it does that is the one that is your problem. Sometimes the fusible link will look okay but if you bend it back and forth a few times it will be weak in the middle and break pretty easy. That one would also be a problem. Once it breaks you will see the green powdery stuff. Its kinda hard to trace them down but start under the battery seems to be here i always found the problem probably because of acid from the battery. Good luck

trace the wires to check for short, check the voltage regulator, make sure you have right fuse, and ignition module.

Tengo el Mismo problema, es un falso en los cables de el BCM, esta en el lado del pasajero, aun lado de la guantera. Intenta quitar la tapa del aire que da a la puerta lado del pasajero, muebe un poco el ducto y podras ver los cables del BCM, intenta moverlos, a mi me funciona

sounds like the fuel pump... it could be getting weak or have something clogging the filter....

hmm, Let me guess, Sideways V-6, can't reach rear plugs? In most cases on these you have to remove the air intake system to get to the plugs. Everything else is basically the same as any other vehicle. There is no timing adjustment because that is electronically controlled although it can still be checked. If it isn't a sideways V-6 it's the same as any other tune up except for setting the timing part. I will try to answer any questions you have about the process however, if it is something specific to the Concorde I recommend you get the Haynes Repair Manual on the vehicle for step by step instructions. If the vehicle does have a Distributor cap and Rotor instead of a coil pack then everything is the same as a regular engine to include setting the timing.

I'm assuming you want to remove the rear rotors. No rear brake rotor nut for holding the rotor on that I know off. I just had my rear rotors off and turned on my 94 Concorde LX.
After removing the tire I diligenty removed the star washers (2) from the lug studs. Then a little spray of PB Blaster around the center hub. Next I removed the 2 10mm bolts holding the caliper to the rotor. A slight nudge with a rubber mallet and the caliper is free, but do support it, don't let it dangle. Another slight nudge on the rotor with a rubber mallet and the rotor literally fell off the car.
There is a rear axle nut and bearing inside of the center hub that is secured by a large 34mm hex nut, on the outside of that a lock ring that looks like a large black bottle cap with a cotter pin going through it for retention. That has nothing to do with removing the rotors. With a little patience, lubricant and gentle tapping, the rotors slide off the center hub. Hope this helps.

Check any fault code in the PCM, I suggtes scanned and tell us what number code there.

Keep in touch.

This is a Serious problem. The best thing to do is upgrade to 4-wheel steering for your Concorde, then, put in a new steering wheel that faces the rear. To make it more comfortable I would turn the seats around too. It might be odd at first, but at least you'll be going forward (only).

The problem sounds very much as if it is on the electrical side. OK so here is the path: Battery, Ignition switch position 2 and fuel pump is engaged, position 3 and current passes through the starter fuse and relay to the starter solenoid (located piggy back on the starter motor) The starter solenoid pushes the starter motor armature forward to engage with the toothed rim of the flywheel. At the same time the armature bridges the contacts between the high power contacts to cause the motor to spin up and turn the engine over. Check the external stuff first. Make sure the battery terminal and cable connections are clean and tight. Make sure the earth return strap from the engine block to the car body is intact, clean and secure, free of corrosion (unbolt, wire brush clean and re-bolt). Remove starter motor and solenoid, dismantle and check on the heavy duty electrical power striker plate contacts for wear, replace as necessary (often these starter motors are by Denso and replacement kits for the copper contacts can be got for less than $10). Check the main starter fuse, clean the contacts until bright. Check the starter relay. If possible remove the cover and inspect the printed circuit board, resolder any dry or annular cracked joints. Pass a folded piece of fine sand paper between the electrical breaker contacts to freshen them up. Make sure the relay pins and corresponding sockets are all clean and bright. The above sounds like a lot of work but once it is done and you are reassured that everything is as it should be you will not need to re-examine this for another ten years or more. Lastly, make sure the ignition switch is OK. Contacts can become worn and if you find that a wiggle the ignition barrel with the key in results in 'start' versus 'no start' then the fault is here.

maybe its bad gas, or an idle issue. you shouldnt have to pump the gas when you start that can actually lead to flooding the engine with gas. Turn the key on and wait about 30 secs before cranking this will ensure your getting proper amount of gas to injector lines. It may take a bit to get rid of gas in there but keep doing it until it starts properly. Also note in doing this do not continuously crank it as the starter and solenoid will fry. Also if you fear there is no gas going to engine look for a gas line bleeder valve. Looks like a tire valve head and usually is covered with a black plastic lid. If you push it in and gas squirts out then your getting gas to engine. If you release all gas and turn the key on and test gas line again and no gas comes out then its what is called a dry start, aka no gas getting to motor. Hence failure of fuel filter or fuel pump. Or a general clog in gas line.

There is a bearing at the hub, behind the brake rotor. Have these checked at the tire store.

HI. This vehicle has a fuel pump access cover located inside the trunk, under the carpet overlay. Once you have removed the carpet; the cover can be seen in the center section of the trunk bed. There are 4 retaining nuts that are holding the cover on the access hole. Remove the nuts retaining the access cover in the trunk and lift up the cover. Once the cover is removed, the fuel pump will be exposed for maintenance or replacement.


The complete fuel pump module assembly in located inside your tank under the cover.

you might find the fuse diagram on the inside of the cover of the fuse box under the hood ......hope this helps.....cheers