Top 20 1992 Chrysler Town & Country Questions & Answers

Start testing speed and position sensors regardless of where they are. Electronic transmissions are sensitive to any of them.

typically in the tank most newer cars

U must perform tracking diagnostic.Ceck spark (if u know how,by sparkplug plug and a wire close to grounded part,whatch for electrical shoque,must use gloves)Ceck fuel supply (u can supply fuel directly to see if sttarts).Last:Bad timing.

Look for a defective ignition switch.

there's usually a hole in the rear bumper that u can stick a long T-shaped pole down and u have to hand crank the tire down

is the neutral safety switch locatedn on the same place as on a 2006,vs 2002

HI
Remove the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder,,,,
Remove the 2 bolts that hold the master to the brake booster...
Remove the master cylinder...
Install the new mastercylinder...
install the 2 bolts removed....
bleed the master with bleed kit that comes with the new master...
install the 2 brake lines..
bleed brakes.....
Let me know if i can help more

fuses do not smell when they blow.plastic/rubber does.....

Hello
Should be #14 in your fuse box i inclosed a link with a photo of the fuses layout
Thanks
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j245/guitarguy22/42232241.gif

which ever side you pump gas on.. check under that side just forward of the fuel tank..it will be connected to the fuel line running to the engine..

THEY ARE ALWAYS IN THE GRILLE

cluster could be fried

I need to know what size of motor you first.

The filter should be mounted on the frame, up from the gas tank. The fuel pump is in the tank, there is a strainer on the bottom of it. The only way to get to the pump and strainer is to drop the gas tank.

This Van doesn't use a HYDROBOOST brake system, it is conventional vacuum brake booster and master cylinder setup, it does use however a active ABS (anti-lock brake) system, this means that the ABS has it own hydraulic pump and can activate the brake system independent of the power brake booster, I am not trying to confuse you but this is the simplest way i know of to explain the system, so if the active ABS fails the pedal will get hard as the brake fluid is not pressurized by the ABS module electric motor, these ABS units are all one piece, they are not serviced in separate pieces, so when you buy a new one you get a entire complete unit, the reason is safety. In any event this is why the high cost, what is going on here is the ABS motor that creates the hydraulic pressure is failing (intermittant operation) at 150,000 that is not unusual, the average life span is around the 100,000 mile mark.

I use a car parts web site called www.rockauto.com, the price I show there is $418.00 for a rebuilt ABS pump assembly, which is what you need, here is the part number and the manufacturer.

A-1 CARDONE Part # 124103 {Remanufactured ABS pump assembly}
A-1 CARDONE Part # 124103 {Remanufactured}

It's located on the top/side of your bell housing.

CHANGE THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH AND THE PROBLEM SHOULD BE SOLVED. THE FIRST SIGN OF THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH GOING BAD IS NOT STARTING IN PARK. KEEP ME POSTED. THANKS FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA. GOOD LUCK

its at the very bottom of te radiator

If you have coolant leaking from under the water pump,you will more than likely need a new pump. Water pumps have a bleed hole built in to show if the pump seal is gone. If it is not leaking from the bleed hole, it may be from the gasket that seals the pump to the engine or it may be leaking from somewhere above the pump and collecting at that point. Good luck Moe

You'll need to put on a replacement idler pulley,here's a link to the part but you may be able to find it for less so shop around at your local parts stores.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=A/C+Compressor+Bypass+Pulley&currentPage=1&categoryDisplayName=Climate+Control&navValue=15201187&itemId=prod11470&parentId=cat10009