20 Most Recent 2005 Cadillac SRX - Page 9 Questions & Answers

check owners manual fuse box is labelled look for radio fuse...

Sounds like the shift interlock is not working like it should. This is electrical so we need to start by checking fuses. This device is put into place so the key cant be shut all the way in the lock position and lock the steering in a emergency. Sounds stupid but someone must have done it once..

You probably need the radio code. You can try this site. Hope this helps Ricjard.

www.radio-code.com

A common cause for the "rattling" noise you've described is a loose heat shield for the catalytic converter. Many times, a weld will break loose leaving you with a hanging heat shield that vibrates and "rattles" while you drive. A trip to the muffler shop should be able to confirm this. By itself, a loose heat shield is not something major.

Another cause could be a loose exhaust hanger that holds the exhaust firmly in place. It too would tend to rattle more as you drive. Either way, it would appear on the surface that your issue is exhaust related. Best of luck and thank you for using Fixya!
Greg

Had same problem in '05 srx v6. Dealer said it was ECM (engine control module). It was a recall issue and they replaced at no charge. Vehicle would start and turn off ,but could not remove key from ignition.

Hello: To remove engine cover, remove oil fill cap and possibly power steering cap then pull up on the cover. on the driver side front side of engine you will see a large nut attached to a cover. Remove that cover and the filter is in the cavity. The filter is a paper element. Not the can type.

I called the dealer,They wanted $85 an hour,an two hours to do it!!!!I took the front splash guard off under the front ,Just put on with plastic plugs,Then took the inner fender well off also with plastic plugs.Turned the wheel in,I didn't have to remove it.. and used a screw driver to take a cover off to get at the bulb..It took some time and it was not easy to get at.But it was warm outside when i did it,and saved afew bucks too!!Be patient and its really not that hard.I've done it twice......

you are loosing power. gas doesnt burns well, maybe leak coming form your catalytic converter.
but try new spark plugs then new distributor cap, but still mis-firing, ignition coil might be problem.also try filling up injection cleaner first of 8 oz. full to your tank. run your car for few minutes to clean up your fuel injector that was cloggeup.

Hello 65000. to 75000.kms is good usually if your in a very hot climate you might consider sooner if you wish to be technical owners manual will specified accurately i hope my solution was help full

dealers??

9 times out of 10 it is due to a bad battery and poor voltage / not enough amps to engage the solenoid or starter. I would try and jump start the vehicle or replace the battery, it being a 2005 I would say that that is the original battery and it is now time for a new one ( 5 years is about the max life for a car battery ).
if jumping the car or a new battery does not fix this problem then I would say that it is a bad soleniod or starter,, but I will say that it's the battery.
have a great New Year,

c...

• The spray nozzles may be clogged or frozen up.
  
• The hose in the tank may be blocked (possibly by ice if you are in a cold climate).
• The pump may have failed.
• There may be an electrical problem - the washer switch on the column lever may be bad, the steering column wiring may be broken, or something shorted and blew the fuse.

If you have compressed air available, try removing the outlet hose from the pump and blowing air through the hose at no more than a few PSI pressure. You should have air coming out of the nozzles.

check plug where it plus into light for burnt or melted plastic

1. Remove front wheel well front half splash guard, each side. There are about 2 screws and the guard pulls forward to seperate from the rear half.
2. After removing the splash guard, you can access one screw that attaches the front fascia, each side.
3. Then about 6 plastic push pin type screws along the bottom, underneath.
4. About 5 push pin type screws on the top.
5. Fascia should then simply pull forward. It is a bit bulky and an extra pair of hands is helpful.
6. Then there are 3 screws to remove the headlamp assembly. Unclip the wiring harness.
7. Then 4 screws to remove the bulb access cover plate.

why dont you try to check the motor for your rear windshield and see if its going..

Under the hood the handle will be red in color and say trans. on it. Remove this and this will tell the level of fluid thats in it, engine needs to be warm before checking the level. This same port used to check the fluid is the same place to add the fluid.


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your air bag deflated must be replaced