20 Most Recent 2005 Audi A4 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

To replace your motor mount, you need to disconnect your motor mounts, hoist/jack up the engine, and replace the mount itself.----------------------------------------------------------------------------------Car Key Programmer

JACK UP YOUR CAR AND REMOVE THE RETAINING BOLTS THAT HOLD ON THE PLASTIC UNDER TRAY.AND NOW YOU CAN GET AT THE LOCKING MECHANISM ITS SELF..............(NO DAMAGE)...........

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems ca cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms

thats correct it suposed to do that thats how it charges the battery if the ignition lights flicker make sure that the wire lomb in the back of alternator is pressed in correctley was it a new audi part or an after market one as i have had many problems with after market parts for my mercedes so if i can afford them i stick with them hope this helps ivan ps there is also a relay that sends current to the battery not sure where that is but it determans when to send voltage to battery to keep it charged

I can show a picture of the common sensor location

U could be run on eco a/c where the engine is using the power until it has extra to spare. Warm at start could be simlarly that there is now cold air yet and has to "make" cold air to distribute when ready. See if u can find a setting for reg use. cheers, ps eco saves dollars/euros.

Engine mounts do not go bad in five miles. Sounds like you're treating a symptom and not the cause of a more serious issue. Are you sure all cylinders are firing correctly? That the severe knocking is not coming from your engine internals? Have you checked the steel around the engine mounting points for cracks or other damage? And just in case, if the mounts you are using are poly, are you lubing them before installation?

A generic code 456 is for a small leak in the EVAP system. The evap system is how the computer vents the fumes from the gas tank. One often cause is a loose or faulty gas cap.Code 302 is a miss-fire in cylinder number 2 which could be a spark plug or injector issue.

Well, I don't know. I would have to see the car.Generally, as long as air can flow thru the condenser and radiator, the ac system can produce cold air.As for the interior, you normally pull in outside air and cool or heat it, but you can also recirculate inside air which would close off the outside fresh air intake for the cabin.

Hi there:I suggest to check this information about "engine noses"...ENGINE CLICKING NOISESA clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISEWorn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.VALVE LASH NOISEIf you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISEInspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUNDUsually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATINGThe cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

May be the horn relay either under the dash or under the hood. If you can locate it, then your local auto parts supplier may test it for you.

Your automatic gearbox is going in "limp home mode". You need to check first the oil level. Change oil if necessary. If the problem still occurs you shoud access the Transmission Control Module (TCM) using diagnostic equipment connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC) of the car. Then you will be full informed about the root cause of the problem, and you can replace bad pieces & reset the TCM electronic unit.