need to remove half shaft front right cant pull out the axle from diff
help help vitara 2000
Posted by charlescil... on
Hi.. The step to remove the front Axles of you Vitara.
Raise and support Vehicle . Remove front wheel,
Remove Locking Hub if is equipaded,
Remove Circle clip from axle shaft
On right side of Vehicle, Remove the Stabilizer Little ball joint nut. Remove castle nut Front Tie rod end,
Remove mounting bolts from brake calipper,
Remove Calipper from steering knuckle and wire a side.
Remove Stud Nut from steering knuckle,
Support Lower suspension arm with a jack,
Remove lower strut bracket bolt ,
Lower jack and disconnect Knuckle from lower suspension crontrol arm,
Pull Outler joint from Hub.
Use Large screwdriver or Prybar To pry Right inner joint from differential, The axle will go out making a little froce with the prybar,
To remove the left side,
Remove mounting bolt from inner joint flange,
Pull out axle from hub.
To reinstall just reverse the prosses.
I hope this help on your job...
Thank you for use fixya....
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
what oil should i use for my suzuki vitara jlx 1991
Posted by danielhale... on
For tropical countries, motor oils with SAE 20W50 viscosity is commonly used. For cold countries, SAE 10W30 viscosity oils are used. You may also use oil of SAE 15W40.
Posted on May 28, 2009
owner's manual for suzuki vitara 1,6 jlx 16v
Posted by fouhour... on
under dash on righthand drive you will need to get on ground and look under dah nrhs of steering coloum
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
suzuki h20a engine diagram is what i need as i need to change the stem seals but i just cant find it anywhere.tried halfords they have the manuals for all the other engines but nothing that covers the v6 2.0l
Posted by mraf786 on
Engine diagram? You don't know what's involved in doing this job do you? This is MAJOR surgery! As the camshafts have to be removed, the timing cover has to be removed. As the rocker covers have to be removed, you will have to raise the inlet manifold. I say "raise" here, as if you want to remove the inlet manifold, you will have to remove the throttle body, and room will probably not let you do that (without removing the engine). As the timing cover has to be removed, the studs in it that go down through the sump will have to be removed - or remove the sump (which means removing the engine). If you're pulling all the timing gear off (to remove the cams), I would recommend replacing all the tensioners and chains while in there. OK, now you're ready to replace the valve stem seals. Remember, you'll have 24 of them to do. They are deeply recessed in the head and hard to get to. A little tool may have to be fabricated to pull the old ones off. The HVLAs (hydraulic valve lash adjusters) should be kept in their original positions, and stored under oil whilst you work elsewhere. Good luck. I have never had to do this job in-car - thankfully.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
My Suzuki will Intermittently billow large amounts of smoke from the exhaust for a period of time and then for no apparent reason will stop doing it and run for days with no problems. Any suggestions please
Posted by clobby on
I have a Mazda which in Australia (here) is called a 323 Astina, overseas a 323f, Familia, etc.
It uses a 2.0L Mazda KF Engine very similar to (in fact co-developed with) the Suzuki H20A engine, except designed to be transverse, variable resonance induction and other different tuning inc. 7000 redline, and probably not as reliable as an H20A.
I've had the engine rebuilt because I want to keep this car for a while and it needed it. Oil slipped past the rings which burned out grooves on one of the exhaust valves on Cyl-6 to the point where that cylinder had no compression...
... but I still get smoke occasionally, as you describe yours except not as often nor on the open road at speed. It happened ever since the first time I changed the oil after the rebuild. The tech who rebuilt it used a grade of oil I couldn't find and, liking synthetics, I used a lighter oil.
About the time you were writing your message, I replaced the rubber intake pipe feeding the throttle body and I noticed the inside of the intake manifold lined liberally with oil. The old pipe had oil only at one end.
The pipe I replaced didn't just go from the air mass sensor on the filter box to the throttle body. There was also a large pipe to an air reservoir (a lengthy pipe sealed at one end so that if you open the throttle quickly, you don't have to wait for more air to be filtered before it enters the engine, supposedly) and a tiny pipe to PCV valve.
It's not a long pipe so it's easy to look inside. The reason I'm boring you with all of that detail is because you'll almost certainly have a different one, but this is still most probably something you'll find feeding your intake manifold a supply of oil. The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve runs from one of the rocker covers (not that we have rockers) into a pipe feeding into this intake pipe. It's supposed to **** air in from the intake pipe due to a vacuum created by another pipe connecting from another part of the crankcase to the intake manifold (after the throttle body so it has a lower pressure than the intake pipe) and that might be happening in my engine but oil is, or was before the rebuild, seeping back into the intake pipe.
Being a transverse version of your engine, the PCV valve is on the front bank and the pipe from it to the intake pipe is quite short. The PCV valve is also situated above (if I remember correctly) a cam lobe so at higher revs, the oil gets flicked up into the PCV valve.
... so use an oil which is thicker at high temperature, do a compression test, or as I'm considering, run the pipe from the PCV valve into a canister to catch the oil before feeding the gasses into the intake manifold. That way less of the thinner oil will be burned off and I'll have a better chance at getting away with using it.
I use 15W40 Oil - viscosity of 15 weight (units?) when hot, 40 in Winter (which the W stands for). I should use 20Wxx, perhaps, to burn less oil.
This engine likes thin oil, it just goes on to liking it enough to inhale it. This engine also likes higher revs.
Hope that helps.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
i am trying to find a car repair manual for a 1997 petrol engined 2ltr v6 24valve suzuki vitara LWB or a picture of where the camshaft timing marks are on the engine
Posted by daveheaps on
Haynes don't cover that engine. I've found a copy of the H25 engine manual which is similar to the H20 engine we have. If you search for SQ416 in google you'll find a copy you can buy or if you're lucky you'll find a free download somewhere like I did!! :-) It has helped me loads.
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
I have blown the fuse that controls the radio, car lighter and ac adapter. It appears to be the black fuse, found underneath the hood. How do you take that bad boy out?
Posted by julia... on
Thanks for using FixYa!
If you are suspecting that the radio, car lighter fuse is busted. You need to check the fuse box under the dashboard. Check the fuse box diagram found on the cover of the fuse box under that dash. Check if you see "Lighter, Radio" Find the fuse and use the fuse puller to pull out the fuse.
You can find the fuse puller inside the fuse box. I hope this helps.
Have a nice day.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
How do I adjust the carb
Posted by John John on
H John, I think your vehicle has electronic fuel injection? What is the problem? Regards John
Posted on Jun 16, 2013
1996 Suzuki Vitara V6.
Original problem - Lack of power and engine cut out when hot, not wanting to restart when hot. A little white smoke from exhaust. Check engine light would come on after cut out. Fault reading MAF problem.
Now - Replaced MAF, rough idle and lots of white smoke from exhaust when cold, haven't been brave enough to take for a drive!
Posted by Andy Andy on
My first thoughts are that you have a head gasket or intake manifold gasket failure. This is why you have the white smoke. If you run it too long, your catalytic converter will be destroyed. Check for coolant in your oil too.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
when I switch on my suzuki df50 4-stroke outboard engine a warning alarm sounds and the 'check engine' light flash twice then 3 times in seqeunce and the alarm sounds twice and this continues until you switch ignition off
Posted by mahale714 on
might be some electrical problem, because, Suzukis are mostly controlled Electronically, it may represent a malfunction!!
try contacting an electrition!!
Posted on May 08, 2009
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