20 Most Recent 2002 Subaru Forester - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Give it some more throttle.

That noise may be in the differential not the axle.

Possible causes - Faulty Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection - Inappropriate fuel pressure - Faulty fuel injectors - Intake air leaks may be faulty - Exhaust gas leaks Most likely is your rear O2 sensor malfunction.

If it won't start the timing may be off on the belt. Most nerwe cars will start with no problem. Sorry to say this but I would check the timing alinement marks

P1100 Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction P1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input (A/T) Subaru Check Engine Light Codes Welcome to the Subaru Check Engine Light...

P1540 Subaru Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction P1101 Subaru Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input

P0500 Subaru Vehicle Speed Sensor

doubt check the gas cap will fix it, that usually throws a gross evap leak code. that code refers to the vent control circuit, specifically to the connectors at the evap canister behind the passenger wheel. it\'s pretty easy to get to, so get a nice flashlight and check the connector, my bet is that some water (as in the linked post) got in the connector or the connector itself is damaged.

Subaru P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2 Change it and check engine light must go off

I bet its just a the heat shield on the catalytic converter. Subaru uses very thin metal and the heat shield is bolted as opposed to welded together. This rattle is extremely common on subys.

mrmopar is right that you should replace it.

however there is a quick fix that will stop the noise. Go pick up a 6" stainless steel hose clamp at the hardware store. put the hose clamp around the cat. It should be obvious whats loose when you look under the car.

if you are a little handy its not a hard job to do your self. Just 4 bolts. You can get a catalytic converter for $200 online. Get the gaskets too. shouldn't take more than an hour or two.

You will need to put the car on jack stands or rhino ramps to get access. Once you are under the car, the parts are easy to get to.

Always, always chock the tires when your under the car. You do not want a car to fall on you.

lube the latch really well and make sure the hood is closing all the way, then check the hood release cable for binding and not returning to the off position all the way.

Check your fuel pressure. Unspent fuel would cool the converter. A lean fuel situation would create the glowing exhaust.

Could be a stuck throttle cable or bad tps "throttle position sensor" maybe see if any hoses look disconnected.

This sounds like your window regulator is off the track on one side. If you remove the door panel you can access the regulator to see what is wrong.

Take it back to the dealer. Not worth touching anything as they will blame it on you if you do. Could be a fuse that's blown but make it their problem if the car is brand new.

what scantool do you own ? lets just keep it simple (for now) you should be looking at "ECT temp " .... also P0420 has nothing to do with a ECT sensor

1991 is pre-OBD2. code readers will not work. sorry. however, all is not lost. Many cars have an alternate way of reading codes from the computer. Toyota has a block under the hood and you short couple wires together and count engine light flashes Chrysler you can turn the ignition key on and off a few times and count engine light flashes in your case for GMs from 1982 to 1995 1: find the 12 pin connector under the dash and short the upper two rightmost terminals. with the ignition "ON" and engine not running. The system will enter the diagnostic mode. In this mode, the computer will display a Code 12, three consecutive times, by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE", "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" or "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" or light. A Code 12 consists of one flash, a short pause, then two flashes in rapid succession. 2:. After Code 12 is displayed, any stored trouble codes will be displayed by flashing the "CHECK ENGINE", "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" or "MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP" light. All codes are displayed 3 times each then a code 12 will repeat. In the diagnostic mode, the computer will also energize all computer controlled relays and solenoids. Tech -- GM 2 Digit codes for 82 and up (non OBD-II) code - code definition 12- diagnostic mode 13- 02 sensor or circuit 14- coolant sensor or circuit/ high temp indicated 15- coolant sensor or circuit/ low temp indicated 16- system voltage out of range 19- crankshaft position sensor or circuit 21- throttle position sensor or circuit- voltage high 22- throttle position sensor or circuit- voltage low 23- mixture control (m/c) solenoid or circuit (carbureted models) 23- manifold air temperature (mat) sensor or circuit (1990 and earlier models) 23- intake air temperature (iat) sensor circuit (fuel-injected models) 24- vehicle speed sensor (vss) or circuit 25- manifold air temperature (mat) sensor or circuit - high temperature indicated (1990 and earlier models) 25- intake air temperature (iat) sensor or circuit - high temperature indicated (1991 and later models) 26- quad driver module circuit 27- quad driver module circuit 28- quad driver module circuit 29- quad driver module circuit 31- park/neutral position (pnp) switch circuit 32- baro sensor or circuit (carbureted models) 32- egr circuit (fuel-injected models) 33- manifold absolute pressure (map sensor signal voltage high 33- mass air flow (maf) sensor or circuit - excessive airflow indicated 34- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor signal voltage low 34- mass air flow (maf) sensor signal - low airflow indicated 35- idle speed control (isc) switch or circuit (shorted) (carbureted models) 35- idle air control (iac) valve/ circuit 38- brake switch circuit 39- torque converter clutch (tcc) circuit 41- no distributor signals to ecm, or faulty ignition module ( carbed models) 41- cylinders select error- mem-cal or ecm problem ( fuel-injected models 41- cam sensor circuit (3.8 engine) 42- bypass or electronic spark timing (est) circuit 43- low voltage at ecm terminal l (carbureted models) 43- knock sensor circuit 44- oxygen sensor or circuit - lean exhaust detected 45- oxygen sensor or circuit - rich exhaust detected 46- power steering pressure switch circuit 48- misfire diagnosis 51- prom, mem-cal or ecm problem 52- calpak or ecm problem 53- egr fault (carbureted models only) 53- system over-voltage (ecm over 17.7 volts) 54- mixture control (m/c) solenoid or circuit (carbureted models) 54- fuel pump circuit (1986 and later models) 55- oxygen sensor circuit or ecm 55- fuel lean monitor (2.2l engine) 61- oxygen sensor signal faulty (possible contaminated sensor) 62- transaxle gear switch signal circuits 63- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor voltage high (low vacuum detected) 64- manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor voltage low (high vacuum detected) 66- pressure sensor or circuit air conditioning

It seems to turn the Eco light on in the dashboard. It doesn't really affect anything in the ECU of the car. Its used to show you if you are driving economically. Accelerate hard or go over 110 km/hr and the light will turn off even if the switch is on. The hold button keeps the car out of first gear so it will take off in 2nd and will try to change to 3rd or 4th as soon as possible to stop sliding on snow or ice. Hope this helps.

Being real careful and solenoid removed check that the ports are in position (flow or no flow) with some small wire connected to the cars battery you can place the solenoid in its opposite state checking ports again for change. Do this several times the results should be the same. remember the change this state several times and it only takes two failures to turn on the light.