20 Most Recent 2000 Subaru Legacy - Page 6 Questions & Answers

First check transmission fluid. If you have a lot of miles its a good idea to change fluid and filter. Also the fluid in rear end. Hope this helps and have a good day.

hello, it is possable that you only have a vacuum leak! listen for air leaking (hissing) under hood. oif so repair as needed, is there any check engine lights, codes? it is also paossable someone turned up the idle too hide another problem....good luck, marty

some wiper blades have splines that locks the wiper to the shaft. take it off and look at it very close

Have the charging system checked it sounds like an alternator problem

If you find that the engine is dying at intersections and runs a rough and fluctuating idle at start up, and you also sometimes lose power even though the engine is running then it is probably your Air Flow Meter or sometimes reffered to as a Mass Airflow Sensor. Eventually, as the AFM deteriates further you will no longer be able to start the engine as the ECU can no longer get accurate flow readings to work out air fuel ratios and shuts it all down to stop damage occuring. 2 ways to fix, replace AFM or upgrade your ECU to one that is capable of running MAPs for air fuel ratio, rather than using a sensor. Hope this helps.

change transmission fluid and filter. have your car scanned to see what the check engine light is telling you.you can take it to advance auto or auto zone. they will scan it for you .tell you what you need .usually when check engine comes on. you got a bad sensor.

Have a look at your main fuses under the bonnet.

Assuming that the Smoke is White or Black, You are gonna have to get an Overhaul on that Motor.

A blown headgasket, needs replacing.

I would get the car aligned, and also check the motor mounts on the engine.

Absolutely! This could Definately Fry the Computer System!

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65115

it just pops out with a screwdriver. Just insert it at the top of the switch and carefully pop it out of the panel. Then just unplug the switch at the back. You cannot find it at an auto parts store so you will have to go to the dealer or get it online. The switch is the issue with the car. I have a 2000 Subaru Legacy that did the same exact thing and it was the switch.

I have the same exact problem, but with idling roughly between 700 and sometimes upwards of 2000+ RPM.  I don't have the problem you do as far as the engine heat goes, but I definitely feel the tug, hear the engine sounding bogged down at stops, and when in neutral, finding it idling extremely high.  My check engine light had come on just this past month (with this problem occuring for a little over a year now), and it turns out I have a bad Throttle Positioning Sensor, which my mechanic says can cause the high idling.  I'm replacing the sensor this weekend with a dealer part, which I got for $102, so I'll post again once it's done to let you know if that fixed the problem or not.
Hope this helps,
Dan e-mail: [email protected]

I have a 2000 Brighton and had the same problem but opposite weather patterns. On humid days it would cut out. I changed the ignition coil and that solved it.

Check Your Fuses: Few cars have a fuse associated with the starting system, but before you go monkeying around with everything, check your fuses to be sure it's not that simple.

Battery Corrosion: Over time your battery connections can become dirty, or corroded. This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with the rest of the car, and it won't start. Try cleaning your battery posts and try to start the car again.

Dead Battery: The most common reason your car won't start is a dead battery. If you have a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test your battery to see if it's weak. If you can't test it yourself, you can test the battery indirectly by jump-starting the car. If it starts right away, your problem is most likely a dead battery. Replace the battery, and clean the battery connections to ensure good contact.

Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not all the way to start). If the red warning lights on your dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not sure, turn on the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be ok. If not, the switch will need replacement.

Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only keep your battery from connecting, it can affect any electrical component, especially the ones exposed to the elements like the starter. If you have a helper, you can test the connection by holding a circuit tester lead on the wire that engages the starter. This is the smaller of the two wires connected to the starter.

stand at the front drivers tire, Peer over just below where the throtle cables connect onto the side of the throtle body, Now look straight down. It's that round black thing bolted to the top of the motor with a wire coming out over to a connector under the intake manifold.

I would really recommend buying the Haynes/Chilton aftermarket service manual for your car.
It can answer questions much faster and probably more reliably than many who might respond.
They are under $20 and available at any of the chain auto parts stores.