20 Most Recent 1996 Mercury Villager Questions & Answers

To replace it is very very hard due to its location. BUT... it is quite simple to take care of if you understand what a knock sensor is. It is just a sound detector. It listens to the engine and if it hears detonation, then it signals. So you need a sensor that works, but if it hears nothing who cares?
Thus, fixing the problem (you have a code) is easy. Buy a new knock sensor. Mount it to the body of the car anywhere that is grounded. Like the sheet metal above the engine manifold. Now reroute the wires that run to the old sensor to this new sensor. Leave the old sensor (now disconnected) where it is. You will need to get the manual (ebay) to locate the wires. Oh - the white wires turn yellow with time. That yellow wire is white.
The new sensor operates perfectly, but it never hears anything. Problem solved.
F&*K-off you guys at the DMV and the EPA!

Without knowing the car or the ac layout my first instinct is an air lock. Be careful when trying to bleed air from the system as there is a danger of being scalded

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Check the cylinder compression first. I'm sure the engine has been replaced before. Just with an old engine.

Your owners manual gives you info on this. Turn the engine off, remove key. Set parking brake, Then turn key to first off position, put foot on the brake shift into neutral, start the vehicle, then drive normally. I realize this doesn't fix your problem, but hopefully, it will get you out of a bind.

Freeze plugs run along the side of the engine block. There are some also between the rear of the engine and where the transmission mounts that you can't see when there connected. Some can be difficult to change depending on which ones are leaking. Sometimes accessories or motor mounts have to be removed to gain access, again depending on which one is leaking.

The "knock sensor" works like a microphone, and is a part that seldom goes bad. They do, rarely, and can be purchased at your local auto parts store. Please state the SYMPTOMS that make you think you need to replace it. (If a computer diagnostic code indicated "knock sensor," it means your engine was pinging due to low fuel octane, misfiring, or over-advanced timing).

Many cars used a duel master cylinder system where there are 2 pistons in the master cylinder body. the systems are arranged so that there is brakes on 1 front wheel and a diagonal opposite rear wheel so if there is a loss of fluid from say a broken brake hose then only 1 set of wheels would be affected If you look at the master cylinder you will see 2 pipes . These go down to a adaptor block and off to the relevent wheel sets.

there is a safety shut off under the hood designed to shut off the flow of fluid if you break a brake line. Some can be reset easily while some require a special tool. When this safety shut off is activated it will turn on the brake light in the dash. The device is simple, is basically is a pin in the valve block that is pushed to one end or the other. the simply reset one has the pin sticking out. simply push the pin back in with your finger. you will need someone to hold the pin in to bleed the rear brakes. The valve is in one of the brake likes that come from the master cylinder and is normally within 18 inches from the master cylinder.

Neutral Safety Switch Transmission Gear Position Switch There are others, but they would be more along the lines of a major problem

If that problem goes away once the engine has reached operating temperature, my guess would be a non functioning cold start injector. Since the warm up phase is controlled by the ECU, you will not be able to adjust the mixture of fuel and air to create a richer mixture while the engine warms up. Have your mechanic scan for fuel trim - long term and short term - and test the cold start injector as well. This can be easily done by any decent scanner; when activated, you should be able to actually heat the injector work, if it does not, it probably needs to be replaced.

Check your air inlet hose(large black rubber hose from air filter to engine)for any cracks, especially between ribs. When there are cracks,when you accelerate it flexes open and creates a giant vacuum leak causing your van to die. Other things to check would be coolant temp sensor,not switch, and have the vehicle scanned if possible.

The are normally located in the gear lever itself. A common problem though- check if your brake lights are working! In order for the solenoid to release, you have to press the brake pedal. The brake light switch sends this signal and if there is a blown fuse or a faulty brake light switch, it is the common fault for the solenoid not disengaging. These solenoids themselves are not a commonly faulty unit!

sould be to the right side of the steering column . behind knee bolster on drivers side.

Check the fuse box, the imst. pnl fuse is the one you want to check.