20 Most Recent 1988 Jeep Comanche Questions & Answers

Check you fuse box, your flase relay, light bubs, and finally the switch itself

Best bet is to go spend $30.00 on a spec manual for your make,model and year of vehicle. and more than likely undo what the guys"mechanic" did. Also if you haven't already, check your fuses and any ac, ac fan relays or breakers if there are any. Damn!!!! Second question without a smart assed answer. I think I'm slipping.

Could be an open connection in the line feeding the battery. Is there a fusible link inline? If so check the fuse or the line itself. Run on Ohm test from alternator to battery; this will tell you if the circuit is good. Sometimes it's as simple as a corroded or loose connection.

Can't help you with what you might have knocked or damaged while replacing the slave cylinder. A slave cylinder is an uncomplicated piece of kit that usually gives good service for many years and few things shorten that life. One of these is using fluid that is incompatible with the seal, another is overtravelling and a third is corrosion. When the first replacement failed it would be usual to dismantle the failed cylinder to discover the cause of failure, which with only (usually) a single seal to examine would be fairly obvious and might or might not be a reason for a warranty claim.

I would say that you line the marks up together between the gears. One gear should have two mars and the other gear should have one mark put the one mark between the two marks

check the tension on the belt, might be too loose or too tight.

get is serviced.its stuck in , low bed (loaded) mode. the lever is or parts in sidestuck in full load mode.and guess what, if you bypass the valve, what will happenthe rear brake will lock, going fast and if on wet or worse roads. 10x worse. its there for a reason. to lower the brake pressure with no pickup bed load. or not heavy trailer tongue weight.ever consider the rear brakes are bad. first. and not the valve.service the rear shoes and slaves.then check the bypass.Does the truck still have the height sensing brake line bracket and line connected into the prop valve?http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f53/bad-proportioning-valve-any-ideas-1127468/#post10505224here is the valve.sold at , JEEP. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/JEEP/1988/COMANCHE/VALVE--Proportioning--VALVE--Proportioning--ECE-198789--1989--Except-France--Italy--1990--KDX--KDX-After-3-1-93--KDX-Up-to-3-1-93/4520728/52009114.htmlChysler p/n 52009114 ; 52003118google that and find them for $75

there only 2 ways (USA answers) they have a guage test (expensive gauge) or replace it ,if in fact you know for sure the rear brakes are good. i think raybestos sells this.valve rebuilt. the valve is height measuring disconnect the link and see if its free? is it jammed? i had a 88 from new. i purged brake fluid every year and it lasted for 250k miles. and sold it. so there is a bench mark on life.(best case) did you read the fsm? yet id does cover these tests. try alldata.com (usa ) it may cover Commanche.

get it serviced now, its dangerous to drive old post

HOW TO , or how can, or ? what tools do i need. or? how to , is complicated by age and rust , got rust? why not ask and form a proper question. the steps are in the FSM, if you are DIY type,? or you can google all day , and see, 1000s doing it. 1st hit , just for you. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/front-u-joint-replacement-how-hard-1369744/

pull battery minus lug 1st. remove box put back new box. put back battery. free.

the very front of the jwwp on the driver side onder the headlights you'll might need to remove it

try splicing in a new ground and see if that get the fuel pump running. also you can test it by applying 12 volts to the fuel pump wires themselves. if the pump is ok it should spin right up. if the connections are good and the fuel pump still doesn't run, it may be the pump itself that is bad. verify that its a always grounded switched 12 v style pump before attempting to test. if the ground wire just bolts to the frame or the cab then its a normal grounded system. some of the pump are always live and switched by applying a ground.

• Constant 12V+ Pink
• Switched 12V+ Purple/Orange
• Ground - Black
• Illumination - Orange/Black
• Dimmer - Dark Blue/White
• Antenna Trigger - Gray
• Front Speakers - 5 1/4" Doors
• Left Front (+) - Green
• Left Front (-) - Black/Yellow
• Right Front (+) - White
• Right Front (-) - Black
• Rear Speakers - 5 1/4" Tail Gate
• Left Rear (+) - Gray/White
• Left Rear (-) - Brown/White
• Right Rear (+) - White/Black
• Right Rear (-) - Brown

Fuel pressure regulator, Fuel pump?

Then the problem is solved. You mean will not start?Check fuel pressure and spark.