20 Most Recent 1998 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Here's a Autozone repair guide on replacing your rack and pinion. SAVE 20 ON ONLINE SHIP TO HOME ORDERS OF 100 OR MORE

What i did ,headgasket fix,add to coolant.

Top or bottom?

Your wheel bearing isn't seated all the way to it's stop and need to be pressed in further. Usually you'll know when it hits the ledge, it won't do anything even if an elephant was standing on it.

see you owner manual

double anon posted, its answered, back up to your other post. even has photos.... one more easter egg hunt , ended.

knock sensor 2.2L 4 banger, most are on side of engine block. ill look for your. does the PCM scans tell you its bad? that be first. its just a microphone, and can be fooled a bad valve train can make noise and fool it. the knock sensor has 2 wire,(few things do there) one wire is yellow, other is green. (clue 2) this usually nails it. my online isuzu books sux a bit, zero locator.s but guess what, 3rd google search. and is where most are, on 4 bangers.id use a stethoscope ($4) to listen to see if engine has internal noises first, (not ping) but valve train or piston slap, or rod knocks.why not post symptoms and not just hunts....????

Isuzu transmission removal - YouTube

? 4:47 www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dT9c1AYbFM Aug 3, 2013 - Uploaded by Johnny5ive Visit my facebook page for everything Isuzu Trooperhttps://www.facebook.com/pages/Johnny5ive-Troopers ...

You bought from Autozone,and now you have to splice,look at both and use the same wires from old pump to new one,look at both connectors and do it the same as in both plugs..

are you in the USA?Isuzu is bad to own here.the below is my answer for stock car with stockengine start blocking feature, factory stock. I would first find that alarm module then id take it out of car and photo it totally (see bypass below)non stock alarms, you need to say so..... for sure... ok im reading your FSM book now. it did have a factory option seen below lets me say how to bypass that. now....BYPASS is easy: cut this wire first. on top right. white-green pin 28 on alarm box.that wire runs the starter crank like , key line.then strip it (out going wire) and move it to Ground. this makes the starter relay pin, at ground full time.this fools the relay into thinking, it's never in alarm.and now cranks. and might start, if its does crank, say so and we can work that issue easy.but do sell this dog.... (or get a parts car , ) IMO !

the front or rear, no way for me to guess????? unbolt it and replace it. start at the arms and work inward works. ill toss coin land on front. ill read the FSM online for you, so can you , but here ill do it. Motor

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the wiper power motor connector (2).
3. Remove 4 mounting bolts.
4. Remove the nut of the wiper motor shaft, and disconnect the linkage.
5. Remove the windshield wiper motor (1).

To facilitate the removal of the nuts, be sure to put out the tip portion of the linkage sufficiently through the mounting hole of the motor by sliding the wiper blade slowly. my guess is this the most easy motor on earth to change. its in plain view, not burried deep in a cowl..... it's easy-peasy-japanesy..

which engine there are 3 to 4 opted nobody can guess whats under your hood. are you working on it not knowing what i there. for sure doing major work book free. no FSM. why do that, working blind. there many critical steps to engine assembly. not trivial. Ill guess now, (silly huh) the 3.2 twin cam (w) if you google using real names of engines, facts can be learned. and some rumors dead wrong.... that is why the FSM works best. 2.3 L 4ZD1 I4 2.4 L C24SE I4 (GM, Aus) 2.4 L C24NE I4 (Euro) 2.6 L 4ZE1 I4 3.1 L LG6 V6 (GM) 3.2 L 6VD1/6VD1W V6 2.5 L 4JA1 diesel I4 (Cameo, TH) 2.8 L 4JB1-T turbo diesel I4 3.0 L 4JH1-T turbo diesel I4 3.1 L 4JG2 turbo diesel I4 FSM means factory service manual, OEM READ DEAL.

THERE ARE PLENTY AVAILABLE FROM SCRAP YARDS, AND E-BAY. THE RODEO HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE TRANSMISSION.

single cam or twin???? heads. we cant guess the engine, there are 2, 3.2L engines.

timed the pump right?

older post.first off no engine stated. so I WILL TELL YOU WRONG!!!so ill answer in EFI generic form. (pure EFI facts)engine idle races too fast. HOT ! no cold.guess #1, you meant hot, engine., (cold racing is normal)lots of causes. but here they all are, i can in fact find all causes. in 1hr or less, hands on (i have the magic hands) and EFI sa v v y !engine never gets hot , never reaches 180F + and holds, vacuum leaks on MAP based engines all race, so.... vacuum...MAF based engines do not race, they run too slow with vacuum leaks. (unless 2 problems, way too rich and leaks of vacuum)ISC valve stuck open (electric idle controller)IAC valve (thermal valve stuck open hot, it must close hot or the engine screams. hot. or the coolant path is BLOCKED to it...spark timing way too advanced. 5min job. to check. not scanning the PCM is the top failure here, why own any car with OBD2 and not have or rent a scan tool.. ? why work totally blind ? scan it and report ALL DTC errors, now.... and WIN.is this the 3.2L V6? (single or twin cam?)here are all engines in the class car (not all offered in USA)2.3 L 4ZD1 I42.4 L C24SE I4 (GM, Aus)2.4 L C24NE I4 (Euro)2.6 L 4ZE1 I43.1 L LG6 V6 (GM)3.2 L 6VD1/6VD1W V6 (Both single and twin cams options)2.5 L 4JA1 diesel I4 (Cameo, TH)2.8 L 4JB1-T turbo diesel I43.0 L 4JH1-T turbo diesel I43.1 L 4JG2 turbo diesel I4i open the hood and see what?? and engine.the EPA hood sticker tells you the size.and the wide valve cover , twin cams.in most cases, its too much air.after all it can't race if air supply is low.one other cause is previous owner hack jobshacking .he screws the throttle body screw that must never be touched, ever.adding way too much air. that does.The EFI adds fuel to air (math calcs on the fly)and cant be blamed for that.

if part time , system do not use 4wd on dry pavement. only dirt or ice. if TOD, say some., torque on demand option. what are tires touching????? ice or dirt? must we ask this?

the mounts? well we have a box of metric bolts. (all shops do) we try each 8mm or 10mm, ok one fits but is too short so we go to store, and buy longer bolts, using a ruler to measure what i need. say i use a ruler and see i need, 3inch long bolts.(gren'go inches) so 3" x 25.4 is 76.2mm or 75mm. long... (just and example!!!) so if 8 mm fits i buy grade 8.8 or better bolts. in 8x75mm (buy 2 bolts on in 8 and 10) and test fit them. there is no other way. unless you have threads there. do you? if yes, any ruler and pitch gauge shows you what you have. say the hole of thread seems like .31 inches, that is 8mm and the pitch gauge shows. most bolts this size are pitch 1.25 fine thread is 1.00 pitch. all good shops (serious) use this gauge. http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Thread-Pitch-Gauge-SAE/dp/B004ROIU2A ends guessing , and can be had for $2 on ebay. ok i teach how to fish today.

Your lighter is more than likely burnt out.

Be sure your coolant level is full first...check radiator cap, air in system, bleed air, any visible leaks?