20 Most Recent 1985 Isuzu Trooper Questions & Answers


First off, be sure your master cylinder is full of brake fluid. Now, starting at the driver wheel, behind or on top the caliper is a bleeder screw. Loosen this screw. The brake fluid may start running out on its own(gravity bleeding)if not then you will need someone to pump the brakes. Using a second person, close the bleeder screw and have them pump the brakes then hold the pedal down. While they have the pedal down, open the bleeder screw and then close it after brake fluid stops coming out. Repeat pumping and holding the brake pedal down then open the bleeder screw until you do not see any air bubbles coming out, should only take 2 or 3 times per wheel. Do the same for the rest of the wheels, starting at the drivers wheel then the passenger front wheel, then the driver rear wheel and ending up on the passenger rear wheel. Make sure your master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid or you will have to start over.
Please rate this and let me know if this help.

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Jan 07, 2015


you have to remove the rotro and hit it with a hammer of its a rear one with the drrums you will need to remove the axel

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Jan 25, 2014


try getting a chilton's manual from the parts store might have to order it for this truck but the give very good schematics in them for the wiring and vacuum systems.

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Aug 21, 2011


need to find rear wheel bearing isuzu bighorn 3.1 (*** import)

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Mar 19, 2011


ignition control module,sorry i dont know exact location on this vehicle but the parts store you get it from can surely tell you

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Jan 16, 2011


follow the thick red wire from battery. The main power wire is bolted on probably 13mm

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Dec 22, 2010


you are going to have to search junkyards for that, good luck. hard to find anything from the 90s, much less the 80s. Do a google search might be an Isuzu old part specialist out there.

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Nov 03, 2010


you can only really see it from under the vehicle i had the same prob but i found it. its behind the bell housing and in front of the oil pan if your laying under the car with your feet out in front of the car, look to follow the same sort of wires that come off the battery to the starter. It is above part of the exhaust and is close to the driver side wheel well.

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Jul 11, 2010


did you check for fuel and compression? Check for compression either with a compression tester or pull the plugs and one by one stick your finger on the top of the hole and have someone crank it. whether there is compression or not you will easily be able to figure out your answer. Also make sure you are getting Fuel if im not mistaken the 85 had a carb. again while someone is trying to crank it see if you can see gas squirting into it if not i'd go the route of either a clogged fuel filter or bad pump... the 3 things a vehicle needs to run is compression spark and air/fuel mixture

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Nov 03, 2009


You don't need to bleed all of the brakes, just the one you installed. Hopefully you have someone handy to help you out. In case you aren't already aware: open bleeder, press brake all the way to floor, close bleeder, release brake and repeat. Don't run out of fluid. For future reference there is tool out that fills the lines from the bleeder to the master cylindar so you force air out of the lines from the caliper while also filling the lines. Good to have when you decide to replace everything. It's also a single person job so no more pumping the brakes, filling the resivor and keeping your fingers crossed that you got all the air out.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matthew_d24b835e574ef6ca

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on Sep 29, 2009


HI, Ive just put a 2.6 4ze1 injected motor in a 95 rodeo in oz, the supply fuel pipe connects to the one sticking out at the front of the efi manifold next to the battery & air con hose! Make sure you have fuel in the tank, also you might have to prime the air out of the line by putting a rag around the hose & turning it over with your finger over it. Lightly releasing each time to let air escape until fuel comes out & being extremely careful for fire hazzard & to yourself!!! Then fit to manifold, the other pipe heading down under the manifold must be a vacum or tank breather hose? I hope this helps you GARYB in australia!!!

1985 Isuzu... | Answered on May 09, 2009


why not login in to mitchell DIY, (goggle it ) and read.
or go to any online, 4L30 parts house and read.
lots of those, can all found easy using "GOOGLE"
here.
search, (4L30 parts)
3rd hit MAKCO
see the graphic there, click it.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/4L30E.html

you need to remove the TC, bolts first
the bell housings bolts to the engine,
those come off, with tranny jack in place.
all the steps are in the service manual.
4wd.
quote (a wall of text, why not buy the book?)

& Transfer Case Automatic Transmission Transmission Removal 4L30-E Transmission

4L30-E Transmission(removal

Print
4L30-E Transmission
Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector

Disengage the oxygen sensor connector from the transmission wiring harness connector
Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Detach the selector lever end of the shift lock cable from the lever assembly by loosening the adjusting nuts and sliding the end out of the bracket

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Disconnect the shift control rod from the selector lever lower lever arm

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener

Remove the oil pipe clamp bracket from the engine stiffener
Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses

Make certain to tighten the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts to the proper amount of torque-the torque measurements are shown in parentheses


NOTE

The transfer case is an integral part of the transmission housing. Although the 2 cases can be separated, the transfer case should be removed with the transmission.

Use a felt-tipped marker to matchmark the hood to the hood hinges. Remove the hood.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Shift the transmission into the N position, and the transfer case into the 2H position.

Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the transfer case shift knob. Remove the 4 transmission cover console retaining screws.

Remove the center console assembly and disengage the console switch wiring connectors.

Disconnect the shift lock cable and the shift control rod from the selector lever assembly.

Unbolt and remove the transfer case control lever.

Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.

Remove the transmission and transfer case skid plates.

Remove the exhaust pipe protectors.

Drain the transmission fluid. For more information servicing the transmission fluid pan and filter, refer to Section 1.

Label and detach the oxygen sensor connectors.

Remove the catalytic converter, center exhaust pipe and front exhaust pipe, as described in Section 3.

Matchmark the front and rear driveshafts to the differential and transfer case flanges.

Unbolt and remove the front and rear driveshafts, as described later in this section.

Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission. Plug the lines to prevent fluid loss and contamination.

Remove the brackets securing the oil cooler lines to the engine stiffener.

Remove the front suspension crossmember.

Remove the dipstick and tube. Disconnect the breather hoses from the tube.

Remove the 5 engine stiffener bracket bolts and the stiffener bracket.

Remove the heat protector.

Disengage the transmission harness connectors and the mode switch harness connector from the engine harness.

Disconnect the harness clamp from the clamp bracket.

Disconnect the ground cable from the engine.

Remove the starter motor, as described in Section 2.

Remove the flexplate inspection cover.

Remove the 3 bolts securing the flexplate to the torque converter. Turn the crankshaft to gain access to all 3 bolts.

NOTE

Remove the radiator upper fan shroud and the cooling fan to access the crankshaft center bolt to turn the crankshaft.

Place a suitable transmission jack under the transmission and transfer case unit for support.

Raise the transmission slightly and remove the 8 bolts securing the rear mount and the transmission crossmember.

NOTE

Make sure the engine and transmission assembly is properly supported before removing the rear mount and third crossmember.

Raise the engine slightly with an engine hoist and remove the transmission-to-engine bolts.

Separate the transmission from the engine and lower the transmission from the vehicle.
end removal quote

Isuzu Trooper... | Answered on Oct 15, 2019


yes auto or manual vehicles must have the flex plate (Auto), flywheel (Man) installed in correct position while engine is at top dead centre cylinder 1 firing.
flywheel has notch in it which goes at 6 o Clock when looking at back of engine & flex plate has notch go at 12 o clock.

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Isuzu Trooper... | Answered on Jun 04, 2019


Did they check the fuel flow ?, a blocked fuel filter can give a good fuel pressure reading but little or no flow , and cause the problem you are having.

Isuzu Trooper... | Answered on May 03, 2019

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