20 Most Recent 1989 Isuzu Pickup 2WD Questions & Answers

The Isuzu is a strange animal-when you do the timing belt you set it with #1 TDC "BUT" the distributor is timed with TDC #4 I found this the hard way and finally had to buy a cd with the procedures on it. Send me an e-mail address and I will forward the associated pictures &
info to you.
Jim Young
[email protected]

TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I
NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine
construction.
Removal
1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at
TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan
and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and
splashguard.
2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing
pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move
pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage
may result.
Inspection
1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking
belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or
other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary,
replace.
2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring
length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not
be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg).
3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification.
Installation
1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and
temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on
compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with
mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o’clock). Rotate camshaft
until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper
camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2.
NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston
is at TDC on compression stroke.
2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump
sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt
is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets.
Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to
tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily.
3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate
crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine
rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are
aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing
tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt.
4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation,
reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article.
Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks
Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co.

Any codes?

in what country ? My '89 2.3 liter Isuzu pickup NO TRANSMISSION STATED (auto or stick)? fuse are to prevent FIRES ever see a wire burn red hot and then melt a fuel line (ugly *****) fuses on cars with fuel are serious.! lesson 2 is There are not 1 fuse for every load in a car, or you'd have 100s fuses. lesson 3, the power distribution is a tree with branches fused. same deal on cars, trains, boats and planes. for the same reasons my wild guess1 you work with no 89 2.3 liter schematic the proceed to hack it and find fuses blow. sure. so my guess 2 is you bypassed the starter solenoid ? and overload that circuit.! the relay has purpose, its a current buffer (lesson4) the reason car didnt crank is the relay the blk/white wire uses like 8amp current is buffered by the relay to 30 times less. This less current save you from burning up and expensive ignition switch, (some are $100) that 5 relay saves 100 bucks. and repeats. the relay also us for logic the USA laws mandate a park /in gear lock out so the relay did that, at blk-pink wire. now defeated. by you. try a new relay (if hacking is a goal) and put switch to ground (pin1,) and pin2 of switch to brown -red wire on new relay. bam starter fixed and no burn burned up ignition swithes or fuses. see fuse 12 below. 10amps that fuse can not run a solenoid direct, the relay must be working. the starter solenoid uses a 60amp fuse. blk wire (main).

Isn't this just a Ford ranger?

both high and low beams fail????? if highs fail, does pressing the flash lever wake up HIGHS? all 4 elements fail, hi and low? left and right? a Blast from the Past, not many 89 cars on the road today. nor any working 100% , not ever. that old. (unless i own it) head lights on this car are cave man simple. super simple... so simple any tech can fix them. a fuse , light and a switch, and Zero computers or NASA engineers needed. i do blast from past here., my bag. first i tell you now,, im answering for USA only as Canada cars have DRL lamps, we dont. this is 1987 , no 89 in my set. there is the path that is broken. try a fresh fuse first. they can have internal cracks(micro) 50cent fix if lucky. check for burned pins

reset what? (lots of parts/systems on a car... name one?) post symptoms first. engine will not crank starts but stalls engine misfires or bogs engine stalls. reset radio reset inertial fuel switch. reset DTC SCAN errors errors Rest check engine light? like that....

stalls what engine? size displacement and cylinder count. is it carb , EFI TBI or MPI injected. carb, or 1 injector or 4 injectors, most cars this year have all 3 choices. in USA< last year for carbs here. if carb, then , maybe the carb is dirty , as they all do and frequently. we clean them and kit them. and adjust them. This is a USA form and we dont have cars made for Botswana here. so answer will be few, lacking ,engine size, or VIN number to see engine option there. or a photo of the engine,will do wonders, but seems to never happen.

you dont, you replace it. some do sell kits, but why risk having it fail, and now stranded,? as most do. rebuilt, (deep pitting inside it will be)

check fuses first? right, (endless answer to electrics,) ok , no transmission stated. so how'd we guess that,? ok, both trans have a Reverse switch, in the casing of M/T or the A/T the side switch.(aka, PRNDL switch) in both cases. of 12vdc arrives there. and if it dont exit there. then the switch is bad. (in reverse) (use a voltmeter and save time?) if you see like 6v there, it might be the reverse wiring is shorted to the body or tailer hitch wire hack jobs, common

TIMING BELT & SPROCKETS R & I
NOTE: Some procedures may differ slightly due to engine
construction.
Removal
1) Remove all necessary air ducts. Position No. 4 piston at
TDC of compression stroke. Align timing marks. See Fig. 2. Remove fan
and fan shroud. Remove belts. If necessary, remove radiator and
splashguard.
2) Prevent engine from rotating and remove crankshaft timing
pulley retaining bolt. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
Remove spring from tension pulley. Loosen adjusting bolt and move
pulley toward water pump. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION: Ensure pistons are at TDC when rotating camshaft or damage
may result.
Inspection
1) Handle timing belt carefully. Avoid twisting or kinking
belt. Do not allow belt to become contaminated by water, oil, dirt or
other contaminates. Inspect belt for cracks or damage. If necessary,
replace.
2) Measure tension pulley spring length and force. Spring
length should not exceed 2.76" (70.2 mm) and spring force should not
be less than 197-347 lbs. (27-48 kg).
3) Replace tension pulley spring if not within specification.
Installation
1) Pull tensioner fully toward water pump side and
temporarily tighten retaining bolt. Ensure No. 4 cylinder is at TDC on
compression stroke by rotating crankshaft until keyway aligns with
mark on front crankshaft seal housing (12 o'clock). Rotate camshaft
until timing mark on cam gear (arrow) aligns with mark on upper
camshaft cover (notch). See Fig. 2.
NOTE: When timing marks are aligned as stated above, No. 4 piston
is at TDC on compression stroke.
2) Position timing belt over crankshaft sprocket, oil pump
sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner in that order. Ensure belt
is positioned in sequence given and without slack between sprockets.
Loosen tension sprocket adjusting bolt allowing spring tension to
tighten belt. Tighten adjusting bolt temporarily.
3) Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate
crankshaft 2 complete revolutions in opposite direction of engine
rotation, until marks on crankshaft and front oil seal retainer are
aligned again. See Fig. 2. Loosen tensioner lock bolt, allowing
tesioner spring to fully adjust tension. Tighten tensioner lock bolt.
4) Install timing belt covers. To complete installation,
reverse removal procedures. Tighten all bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table at end of this article.
Fig. 2: 2.3L & 2.6L Timing Alignment Marks
Courtesy of Isuzu Motor Co

Most likely cause is out of round brake rotors.
They will need to be resurfaced or replaced to correct the pulsation you feel in the pedal.
One other cause I can think of is the ABS (anti lock brake system) is activating due to possibly a bad wheel speed sensor.
You can disconnect the power connector at the ABS control unit and road test the vehicle.
If the pulsation is still there than it is not an ABS problem.

Check for a flat camshaft lobe.

I\'d try 2 things. One, some, or many, motors and fuel pumps, even electric ones, need to be "primed". You might try to figure out how to suck the fuel from the tank up to the motor somehow. I do not necessarily mean using your mouth. You could also take a rag and an air hose, and GENTLY blow air into the gas tank to "prime" the system.Another thing is, is there some part of the engine where gasoline could have congealed or turned to gummy deposits preventing the gas flow? This is why they suggest mowers and generators be run until they run out of gas before storage, to prevent gummy deposits caused by evaporated gas.Be blessed.

check your belts tension and make sure all yur bolts are tight. also your vaccum hoses If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_e9d0abd7cc2508b3