20 Most Recent 2006 Volvo S40 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

have you tried to run finger around inside of tail pipe to see if its burning oil!! but do this when it is cold. you may also have bad oil rings on pistons. if it is burning oil it will smoke very little if any. because the convertor runs so hot it will burn up all the oil residue. so you may noy be able to see any smoke. have a good day!! check carefully all gaskets for oil leaks, and also make sure oil filter is hand tight, sometimes a loose oil filter will start leaking oil.

looks like the rear bearing might be available in the aftermarket. If you have a local NAPA that would be your best bet.

As far as diagnosing a wheel bearing it is not that hard to figure out but sometimes they can be a little tricky. I'm not faulting the shop you chose as I have also been deceived by wheel bearings. There are several tricks that can make them easier to identify and I try especially hard to gather all the facts I can and make the best diagnosis I can based on those facts. Even then I have on occasion been wrong. I would cut your loses and try another shop. If you go with an independent shop find one that specializes in European cars.

If you go to the dealer think of it this way. They more than likely would have identified the problem correctly the first time. All they do is work on volvo's so they are very good at it and typically stand behind there work. You would already be ahead as you would not have had to spent the money replacing a bearing that didn't take care of the problem. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Have the vehicle scanned at a local parts store and have them retrieve the code. Once you have the code, let me know and we can diagnose it properly and effectively.

I think that the best service comes at a dealer, in general, but it's not always necessary to have service performed at the dealer, especially when trying to economize.

I couldn't find online information about the 2006 Volvo S40, so that means that buying the service manual should help to find the information that you require.

Good luck on choosing a service center for maintenance of your vehicle.

HI, this could be a nightmare to put right, as they have found a rodents nest and replaced the ecu and your still having problems this would mean you have got a few wires shorting out somewhere due to the rodents chewing through them.

the problem with this is it would take weeks if not months to go through every single wire checking for shorts or broken wires, i mean if you was going to do it yourself the dash would need to come out and the wires in the engine bay would need testing but the problem with this is they may test ok but when the car is moving the wire may move and then short so it will be a nightmare of a job and would cost hours and hours in labour charges.

if i was you i would price up a complete wiring loom from front to back as this is the only real way your going to solve the problem, the rodents would have chewed through several wires and got into places that you cant see so tracing all these damaged wires would take hours and hours and would cost a fortune, i would have a word with the garage and ask them to price up a new loom and ask them how much to have it fitted.

as you have changed the controle module and still have the same problem then it is going to be a short somewhere or even a wire going to a sensor or sensors, the problem with testing the wires is that some of the sensor only work when the car is moving and others only work when the engine is running so finding the fault would just take to long.

has the garage done a diagnostic check to check for any error codes as this should give you some idea of where the fault is. get them to do this and see what pops up, but failing that your going to need to get the whole loom changed.

you can buy these new from main dealers but will be pricey how ever you could contact a breakers yard as they should be able to sort you one out.

let me know if you need further assistance ok

Find someone with a code reader and read the codes, this will dicatate the next steps...

the light will have to be reset by the dealer, that is after its repaired

you need new brake pads

The drain on the evaporator is stopped up,look for it directly bellow the ac lines ,where they go into the car,under the hood,it will be on the bottom of the blower box,use air pressure to blow into the drain to clear it out.

Every car has a carter recirculating system: in the carter there are gases that escape the cylinder during compression; if they would be left there they would in the end explode on their own causing damage; because of that they must be extracted simply by sucking them out - a pipe is connected from the carter to the admission manifold and the depression there sucks the gases out; the gases must be replaced by something so air from the outside (usually thru the oil cap) is sucked in its place - this is what you hear.
Absolutely normal operation, at worst the air hole is slightly blocked by dirt and the noise is way louder that it should be.

volvos are typically hard to find parts for , they want you to
go to the dealer.

I need a new alternator as well (2006 S40, 2.4ti, 80K miles) and the lowest quote I'm getting is $875. The dealer wants $950, an independent mechanic I trust quoted $930. You would think they could replace the part without all the extra nonsense -- in most other cars, they probably could. Volvo has made it unnecesarily difficult with the way they've designed this car. This is the first and last Volvo I will ever purchase.

The mechanic who quoted $875 also said he has someone in town who could replace the non-working parts of my current alternator and get it working again for about $575. But I wouldn't have a car for 2 full days.

run a 12v feed direct and see if it works as a low gas pressure will stop it from working

Volvo dont have the same system, I have a Grand Cherokee too, and this way to know the codes is so nice. For your vehicle juts nee to visit any autozone or someone dealer to scan the PCM.

Good luck (remember rated this).

The spring broke on my S40 clutch pedal too.
The old spring looks like a modified volvo part since none of the S40 clutch pedal springs at Volvo spares looks exactly the same as the one that broke. The one that broke looks similar to the replacement part that I bought, but one can clearly see that the old one was cut shorter at the other end and bent over to make it fit onto the clutch pedal mechanism. This is absolutely pathetic. I am taking it to Volvo to fix their rubbish themselves - and then they are still going to charge me R750 ($100) to replace a stupid spring! By the way, Volvo always wants the vehicle VIN number when buying spares because some of their cars (of the same year and model) use different parts - CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS! By the way, I am replacing the spring to pull the pedal all the way back - otherwise if I start the car in the mornings then the pedal is nearly on the floor when the car starts moving. If I pull the pedal back with my foot , then all is back to normal. I am scared that I may have no clutch after some time - so I will rather replace it.

Person at Volvo told me it is localted under the glove box - for a right hand drive car. He said a control unit must also be unscrewed to get to it. I will be changing mine soon - by myself. Cannot be that difficult to do. Not sure about a LHD car.

If there is a restriction in the a/c system, the pressure may be getting either too low or too high for system to work properly.

Also, if the charge is low, the compressor may not turn on 20 minutes into your trip.

Check to see if the pressure on the low side is 25 psi to 45 psi when running the a/c.

Good luck.

Go to a local library and check the Chilton manuals, sencondly just call the dealer. tell him you live in the boonies and can't tow it.