Top 20 2003 Volvo XC90 Questions & Answers

check the plug gaps ?25th then go from their as you might be better off renewing all four with new ones but if plug gap too wide then this will cause problems regap plugs every 10,000 miles and renew as and when the electrodes are worn to excess

Like what kind of problem.

Hi Piet, The link below is a YouTube video showing how to fix a car that stops running whilst driving down the road, Also there's videos down the right side of the link that may help as well....................CHEERS.. Fixing Car That Shuts Off Randomly

Bad serpentine belt tensioner or bad power steering pump, in my experience.

You need to replace the Wiper Switch.

Passenger side exhaust is bank 1 driver side is bank 2. Second sensor downstream of the cat is sensor #2

Best would be to replace hose unless you are very sure you are able to re-crimp end securely. Next, draw vacuum as you would for house HVAC, then charge system to correct fill specs. If you lost any oil when hose blew, might want to add a little of correct grade.

You may need to replace the coil pack or just the insulation boot. The Boots are $8.50 each at IPD.

You just have to let the mechanics do the job, this is not something you can resolve without specialist knowledge. What you can do is check around for recommendations.Look around for somebody with a good reputation in driveline work/ diffs propshafts .....who dows not charge the earth. A reputable company will save you money in the long run GOOD LUCK

Write down a little diagram on the routing of the serpentine belt!!! Then use a 1/2" or 3/4" wrench with a short extension to insert into the belt tensioner and undo the tension to unhook the belt. Then it's pretty straight forward, undo the hose, undo the line, then there are holes in the pulley that you turn until they line up with the bolts and you can undo them. Install is the reverse. :) Oh, and make sure you get the right fluid. I think Volvo specifies the Pentosin CHF11S, but the Pentosin CHF202 is compatible and easier to find/get. When you refill it, the easiest way I've found to bleed the system is to fill the reservoir, twist on the lid half a turn (to lock it in place, but not tight, you want to let air bubbles escape) and then have the front wheels off the ground and turn the wheels lock-to-lock a couple of times. Then check the fluid and bring it back to level, then do the lock-to-lock steering thing again. That should have most bubbles out. Make sure the oil level is good and then snug the lid down and start the car. The engine will run the pump and you can steer it lock to lock a few times again and re-check the fluid. You DON'T want to run it low, because when you start wearing seals and parts in the steering, you will at some point end up replacing the rack, which is messy to do on your own, and expensive if you have a mechanic do it. Good luck!

Oops, this is a big mistake, but fortunately not the end of the world. The 27 mm bolt anchors the B4 transmission band, which is what gives you third gear. If you were to drive the car now, you can't shift into third, but you can skip over it (geartronic) and shift into 4th. There is a way to use a small screwdriver to try to shift the band back into place to where the threaded part rests right under the bolt hole. If that fails, then you can drill a small hole in the 27 mm bolt and use a screwdriver through that hole and hold the band in place while you snug the bolt, then seal the hole (tap it and use a small screw, etc.). If that fails, the trans comes out and has to be disassembled and reassembled. Read more at the link below and good luck! 2002 XC70 Transmission Nightmare EVERYONE PLEASE READ Page 7

Sounds like start wire is touching ground with would be frame motor or metal

Oops, this is a big mistake, but fortunately not the end of the world. The 27 mm bolt anchors the B4 transmission band, which is what gives you third gear. If you were to drive the car now, you can't shift into third, but you can skip over it (geartronic) and shift into 4th. There is a way to use a small screwdriver to try to shift the band back into place to where the threaded part rests right under the bolt hole. If that fails, then you can drill a small hole in the 27 mm bolt and use a screwdriver through that hole and hold the band in place while you snug the bolt, then seal the hole (tap it and use a small screw, etc.). If that fails, the trans comes out and has to be disassembled and reassembled. Read more at the link below and good luck! 2002 XC70 Transmission Nightmare EVERYONE PLEASE READ Page 7

What I would do first is to go to a Volvo shop or dealer who can hook up the VIDA/DiCE interface (DiCE is the computer interface, VIDA is the software) and tell you EXACTLY what the code/problem is. It could be as simple as an ABS sensor at a wheel. Once you know what the problem is and had it remedied, you MIGHT have to use VIDA/DiCE to turn off the light. Alternatively, you might be able to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable for a half hour to clear it. If you can clear it by disconnecting the battery and the code comes back, you still have a problem - then it's back to VIDA/DiCE to determine exactly what the car thinks is a problem and remedy that. I am not entirely sure if you need to get a software update after you've swapped an ABS module, but I seem to remember someone saying that you do...

get a haynes manual at partstore or librarysec629

Check fuses, then connect with diagnostic tool and look for error codes.

This is a bit of a pain, and you basically have to remove all the pieces that are in the way of removing the booster - it's sort of self explanatory. HOWEVER, you don't need to undo the lines to the master cylinder. There's enough flex in them to bend the whole shebang out of the way for removal and that way you don't have to bleed all the brakes. If you *do* remove it, it's a good time to get fresh fluid in the entire system. Pick up a Motive Power Bleeder and it's a very quick process!

Its in the Fuel Tank, Must be done by Dealer.

it will not work since it already has software in it to match the vehicle it is coming out of. best to buy new from Volvo and have the correct software downloaded to your vehicle

I had the same problem and the dealer told me it was one of the coil-over-sparkplug went bad and was causing intermittent misfires at certain RPM's (same as yours). I ordered a new coil for $200 or so then pulled each one out to test them one by one (Volvo won't tell you which one so they can do the work). In the process of doing this I found one of my OEM spark plugs (#5) had a crack on the ceramic insulation. So instead of changing the coil, I changed the plugs and it worked fine. It's been over 6 months I believe and I just had it smogged for registration, so I think it's fixed. I also read that the throttle body electronics on this model is a lemon and sometimes created the exact same symptoms. This is the cheapest way to start, and if you are lucky like me, you're done. If it is the coil, you can get a good aftermarket version on Amazon for less than $100 usd. Good luck. Volvo's are finicky people.... I mean vehicles.