20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki Forenza - Page 2 Questions & Answers

usa car?2.0L engine, the stock car had nice wiring , harness wiring and clamps and works great, until..but someone hacked yours all up, why not photo the clock light, no idea at all what that means.photo it and post .does clock mean the TIME CLOCK or does that mean the SPEEDO CLOCK warning lamps glow, see 2 photos of me guessing what clock means , on your car.what makes you think the cat is too hot, do tell. why.? (sure they do , and is symptoms of rich)but is normal to get hot, they all do.the cat can go to 3000F normally, you do know that right.?my guess is you failed to scan the PCM.or ask any shop in town to do that.(if the check engine light is on get car serviced)same for too hot cat.same for misfire, makes cat hot too.same for sure if the CEL lamp flashesthe operators guide tells you that that means overheating the cat, as designed to do.on all cars.the burned wires, are hacks.Hacks as in letting unskilled works touch car.they hack it up bad. (or butchers)the weak wires do not get near the cat. on a stock car.then come to the 02 at 90degree angle,the o2 wires actual pig tails wires are high temp special wire, very high temp..but not the harness side, they will melt if hacked , hacker cut the clamps up and allowed the soft low temp harness side hit the cat or exhaustHe did a hack jobhe fail to put it back as he found it, sad no?. the engineer of your car designed the cat and wireto be ok, even if say , then engine thermostat failed cold and the fuel mix goes gross RICH.that is all part of the engineering done !!!see those cat shields, they also must be in place.then the CAT gets way hotter , why hotter, this is its job.it's job is to burn up (catalyze ) all that wasted rich fuel.to keep the earth green. (includes lungs)it burns HC, Hydrocarbons and gets even RED hot.the problem is 2 foldbad wiringand not scanning the PCM.2 fold.

Just drain radiator...open valve on it...should have one on lower corner (one side or the other). Then remove clamp holding it to radiator and probably water pump. ( just follow it). May have to twist to break seal. Install new one. Tighten back down clamps. Make sure radiator valve is closed back up. Fill back up radiator. Check level.

I couldn't find the manual for the 2005, the 2006 says the automatic transmission should be inspected every 24,000 km (15,000 mi) and changed every 60,000 km (37,500 mi). The manual transmission should be inspected every 48,000 km (30,000 mi) and has no recommended change within 180,000 km (112,500 mi) where the maintenance schedule ends. Here is the owners manual for the 2006, the maintenance schedule is section 6 almost the very end. 2006 Suzuki Forenza Owner Manual

previously answered

code p 420 refers to cat converter system , bank 1--efficiency below threshold ===causes ---cat converter faulty---wiring --heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), 2 faulty code p 0134 refers to HO2S 1 bank 1-no activity detected ===causes --wiring open circuit -- heating inoperative --- HO2S also refers to oxygen sensor ( O2S) 1 bank 1--no activity detected == causes wiring ---O2S code p 0138 refers to HO2S 2 bank 1--high voltage === causes ---wiring short to positive ---HO2S--- ECM also refers to O2S 2 bank 1 high voltage === wiring short to positive O2S -- ECM I do not have a listing for code p 1338 but I suspect that it will refer to the other codes in some way first fix is to check the cat converter is operational ( not cracked and blocking the exhaust system) next replace the HO2S sensor ( one before the cat converter ) and then the O2 sensor (the one after the cat converter) all the codes will relate to problems in that area

Bad struts. When he jacked it up, he caused it to expand and reset into a non-noisy position; which didn't last.

safety feature

you can'tand above post says dealer ship, there are none.Suzuki is belly up here state-side (and Canada), Google" chapter 11 Suzuki." Id sell it, sold all mine,,, just for this... so finding a dealer is hard, (poof bugged out)1 in Florida and 1 Calif.? not dealers but parts stocking service.why not post all symptoms and DTC errors.and not blame the PCMever consider the transmission ground strap is broken?why not drive the car with the scan tool connected (round the block in 1st gear? is it?)most suzuki tcm, goes to limhome and only skip 3rd gear.so my guess, you have a dead VSS, but fail to see that , look for it or even scan it. drive and scan, you must,after all transmissions do not shift in the drive way.well, if you have 4 jack stands sure........ kids and pets gone.why not post your scan tool data.why not.??????a tool is $10 to $100. see pending codessee freeze frameand see all streaming data and DTC on the fly.super easy to do and the tools are dirt cheap.about 1hours labor , worth of tool and free if it finds the problemand you dont pay for LABOR, 1st time,then 2nd time its pays DIVIDENDS !!!!!!!!!!!!!next dividend.called RTM read the manualamazing it shows how to test the trans.and all dtc codes.and steps to solve them.all in print, ready 24/7 for all modern cars.a $4 cure.xxxxxxxxhttps://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1064-2005-forenza-reno-service-manual.aspxxxxxxxxxPCM is last. not first. last dead lastor risk making it 10 times worse.there are over, cant count too high in old age25 transmission DTC errors.why do I think you are not even looking.?????the TCM cant not upshift gearsif it can not tell crank speed, or tail shaft speed. it uses at least 2 sensors. to shift.if one fails the VSS can just be DIRTY.the trans can not know your speed. and cant shiftperiod.just one simple examplemany suzuki you can pull a trans connector and then shift all gears manually.RTM,. its there, under ON CAR tests of transmissionsbut this car is Deawoo dog meat car, (a mix of 3 cars,junk, IMO)so.... who knows...sorry the FSM URL does not link up, usual fixya bad code.

not before??? other shoe drops........... all parts on that end of car need to be checked for loosness. get car check by any mechanic<? pay for diagnosis?

http://columbiaisa.50webs.com/2011_car_stereo_install.htm Does this help?

Code P0327 indicates that the readings from the #1 Knock Sensor circuit are too low, is outside of its operational window and malfunctioning. Symptoms

• Check Engine Light will illuminate
• Engine pings on accelration
• Engine may be running hotter or colder than normal
• In rare cases, the engine may not exhibit noticeable symptoms

Common Problems That Trigger the P0327 Code

• Defective Knock Sensor
• Defective Knock Sensor Circuit or connections
• Defective EGR System
• Malfunctioning Cooling System
• Rich air/fuel ratio

Common Misdiagnosis

• Knock Sensor replaced when cause of code P0327 was a cooling system problem
• Knock Sensor replaced when cause of code P0327 was an EGR system malfunction

incredible, is car running or not?EG: key on only.EG key on end running.Gee! pretend the helper is blind, we are..there are 2 kinds CLUSTER of lights1: WARNING LAMPS. (all com on keyon as test)2: AND PARKING LAMPS. that can be dimmed....3: and gauges they too use CLuster power so....which ones.?????????? name all lamps and bad.does engine run??????????do head lamps work and not be dim?we need all lamps that work and not.both.your car electronic tech, would see all this in 5 minutes work , I say let them'! not me im retired.A primary test, for power.... (works key off too)if head lights are dim or fail?, or act oddthat is a dead/week battery (or just discharged)or just ignoring the terminal lug cleaning service steps. (that is a top failure, "A1" failure.also modern cars with lots of computers!they all go very crazy, with low battery voltage.use a thing called a voltmeter to check system volteges. battery is 12.6vdc rested.even the $10 walfart, meter works. here. prefect.and running, 13.3 to 15vdc good. is it?

Sounds like it's leaning out. I'd start by checking for vacuum leak (hoses and connections).

Unplug the old sensor's wiring harness connector by pulling the tangs on the side of the connector away from the plug. Pull the plug out of the connector. Unbolt the sensor, using the appropriate socket, then remove the sensor from the engine.

Clean the block around the sensor-mounting area with shop rags. Install the new sensor and tighten the bolts firmly. Do not over-tighten the bolts, as you could damage the sensor.

Plug in the wiring harness connector, ensuring that the plug snaps into the connector's tangs. If it doesn't, the plug can come loose and the Forenza will not run properly. You could also damage the engine's computer.

depend on these things.1: rust. (the effects of...)2: collateral damage at get go and after fighting #13: tools in shop and skills and strength of the mechanic.4: how many times my GF Cells me or texts me...5: how many jobs my xxxxx boss makes me do at same time.6: how many coffee breaks allowed. 1 per hr.?7: how slow i am with finger splint from skate board crash....8: hung over..?9: if on a lift or laying on shop floor....?10: how many tools i break fighting rust...?why not do it your self and time your self.and learn that it is variable and then never ask again,.if lucky 30 minsif not lucky (gods of rust etc) 2 hours.? some time we must cut bolts off.....or find a flat rate shop>? (might be more $$$)

sounds like the heater core inside the car is leaking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqiTOkp7ouw its not like your car but it shows the large amount of work required to replace heater core. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t7348853-am_wanting_change http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8037a11a

wont crank or cranks perfectly but will not start and run, (turns over ? means zero)why not post your country, as each country runs different engines,!!! or tell us what engine is there?and ignore posts that say pistons hitting valves, does not stop cranking (wow)some are Interference engines !!! a hard fact...or wild comments about push rods..... wow 2.best is not to crank it any more unless you want more parts bent !!skipping CAM belt service is real bad. this car has these engines. (we cant guess them, ever)1.4 L E-TEC I4 (petrol) 1.6 L E-TEC I4 (petrol) 1.8 L Family II I4 (petrol) 2.0 L Family II I4 (petrol) ????? L34 GM name. 2.0 L RA 420 I4 (diesel)if in USA its usually the 2.0L (are you?) or in Canada? read the wiki on Forenza. and sell it when fixed. AS Suzuki cars are dead in uSA and canada."chapter 11 dead"it's the new Yugo/Daewoo/Isuzu of the world. here.sell it and get a toyota.. really.if you continue to crank it , you pound the rod and crank bearings for DAMAGE too, not just valves bent and pistons battered to H3LL.

2005 Frenza, Daewoo wonder box, and no engine of the 5 stated Deawoo can sell them in usa so suzuki tried and failed too.... sad. now that is a challenge. (like doing a cross word puzzle, cut in half.) no, you do what the SUzuki fsm states. the factory service manual. there are test to do, the ECU does not have AI yet. it takes a tech, to do test to find cause, a live human still. the key to codes is to learn what the test does first and how it fails, what did the ECU see at the failure. this is called critical thinking, knowing that some tests that failed are really caused by the other failures. my online source fails to list 488s. sorry. if that really is a EGR test. there are many ways it can be done, vacuum drop ( can be other failures disturbing vacuum and egr is ok) EGR pot resistor, read back failed.? EGR coils shorted or open. checks. EGR map sensor , reads wrong. (lots of causes and tests) or the EGR paths are blocked the exhaust path.. so read the manual, i dont have,,im not popping 4bucks for you. https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Category/3-suzuki-service-manuals.aspx even bouncing vacuum can make EGR fail. lots of causes. if i had the FSM print out on 488s, i can state all tests to find true cause.