2003 Suzuki Aerio - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

At $1000.00 USD I will not guess on the PCM nor should you..

03 Suzuki Areio won't idle when hot?? If there is no engine codes like my 03 Areio 2.0 I simply cleaned the throttle body and adjusted the throttle cable when the engine was hot back to 800 rpms.. seems to be the fix. I'm suspecting the cable after 240k was a bit stretched and didn't give enough tension to the butterfly valve after it was up to operating temperature..

First of all, if the engine turns over, you DON'T need a starter or an ignition switch. Don't fall into the 'let's try replacing this' method of car repair! It is costly and never works. First replace the cap cap, it is part of the pressurized fuel system and may be the answer to all the issues. $20 from Walmart, or $15 from Napa Auto Parts. Then connect a code reader and find why that Engine Light comes on. Your vehicle has a computer that records everything that is wrong with it. A cheap code reader gives you the basics, a $5,000 scan tool computer tells you everything, historically and in real time as the vehicle is starting of being driven. The other thing to check is that the battery is good. Interstate will test for you for free in the parking lot and only takes 2 minutes including the printout. I think AutoZone and Napa also does it.

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OE Replacement for 2002-2003 Suzuki Aerio Fuel Tank Cap ...

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GET A NEW BATTERY

You can fix the problem with the help of service and repair manual which will provide you step by step help to locate and fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com

Any tire dealer or reputable BBB approved auto care repair center can service the brakes, also any Suzuki dealer is a good choice as they have the best knowledge of the product by far. As far a specific locations that can do brake work and have well trained brake repair technicians, Firestone auto care centers and Big O tires are good choices as well.

After you replaced the computer, you need run the car for at least 75 miles before the check engine light will go out on it's own. You disrupted the system norms be swapping the computer and the systems need to reset. Be patient. If it doesn't go out, have someone shut it out for you and see does it come back after 11 miles. If you don't get that hiss when you pull the gas cap. replace the gas cap. If you still don't get the his when you remove it next time, your system is not sealed and is sucking vacuum somewhere. Possibly the gas fill tube has a pinhole or the tank vent tube. Maybe the connections are not tight. It could be any of these.

check cam senser on top at driver side of engine. check plug to ensure no corr.

Hello Jgilly90, I'm not sure if i would place a jumper across the low pressure switch. Unless the troubleshooting tree in the service manual suggested this test I would be careful experimenting. Here is your HVAC schematic:

Don't buy it from the dealer, just buy a used remote from eBay. Use these instructions to program it.

1. Confirm that all doors are closed and the ignition key is out of the ignition cylinder.
2. Open the driver's door.
3. Within 10 seconds, Insert key into ignition turn to ON position and back to OFF and remove the key.
4. Within 20 seconds, close and open the drivers door 3 times. (Drivers door should be open)
5. Within 10 seconds, insert key into ignition turn to ON position and back to OFF and remove the key.
6. Press and hold both the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons together on the same remote for at least 5 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock (that's a very good sign)
7. Within 5 seconds, press the LOCK button on the same remote and release. You just programmed your remote ??

Myself, certified ASE auto tech, would start by scanning the computer & get the sensor READINGS. Bad readings don't mean the sensor is NG, it can possibly be an electrical problem too. For the problem u are describing it can be a result of a crank or cam sensor. Its very possible. Just make sure u get a warrantee by a repair. PS the crank & cam sensors are common causes for this problem. I warrantee all my repairs. Sorry, that's the best I can do from here. Good Luck

what engine, in what country? Each engine has its own EFI even gas and diesel we can not guess what whats under your hood. why not log into mitchell DIY and read it your self' oops it asks same question. the FPR is DYNAMIC and has 3 tests. not ONE . the service manual covers all that, if you buy one,

1. key on pressure
2. idle
3. and WOT< wide open throttle (same as #1)

and at full vacuum even less. our engine is 2.0L and 2.3l j20 AND J23 MY CRUMMY BOOKS ONLY SHOWS. AT IDLE. 31.3-36.9 psi. but, (physics 101) IT WILL BE more at wot by about 6pis (at sea level) and less at full vacuum. its a 1 bar, FPR. wot = wide open throttle this device does 3 things. regulates and compensates for altitude and compensates for induction plenum pressures(vacuum) at all throttle angles. make sure the vacuum nipple does not leak fuel or its bad.

no engine stated or countryl open glove box,take out that OPR guide read, its there. or go to shop the drain it and fill it to the dip stick full mark , whatever. it takes or measure what came out? (6th grade,tactics?)

If you are able to drop the fuel tank without disconnecting any other components (brake lines, suspension and exhaust), and remove the fuel pump, the answer is yes. Best to drain the fuel from tank to make it lighter when dropping down enough to clear the pump.

Generally if a hose is leaking under a clamp it's because there is a crack under it You will need to take tank down and empty it and replace the hose that is leaking.

It means the thermostat is working. And the fans. This is normal.

Unless you have fold down seats this can be exceedingly difficult if not impossible. My advice would be to contact your local automotive club or a towing company and pay a very nominal fee to have the door opened. All the best.

why do you have ? on facts? odd that. my guess replaced ECT ! not ? my guess, doing so , now engine is full of air, and not fails. as all do. front RAD cooling FANS, right? (not heater blower ) it don't work like you think, ? huh? what does" not in Rad "mean? with ? marks? means you trust the silly side tank and not look in rad? fail you will. when doing cooling service, learn read a book first. read how to fill and burp your engine, Just like feeding a baby it is. is engine overheating? did it , has it, or ? , what started this saga, tell a full story? and WIN ! Facts: on this system. the fans are controlled by the computer brain, under a complex set rules now. it's not some mindless switch like days of old. sorry! ill now answer for USA 03, how ours work, ONLY! ours has one fan., (not fans) ours has a 3 speed fan (at rad back side.) and has rules to run all 3 speeds, via 3 relays the PCM/ECU decides this, based on if A/C is on or off. and a complex set of rules (uses the ECT for this magic) Fact 2: ECT will not work with air pockets !!!! The PCM even turns on and turn off are not same temp!!! Rules: 1: Rad must be filled of AF/ 50% antifreeze cold, to the top neck of RAD filler. 2: rad and engine burped of all air pockets, ask it's same on all cars. 3: the ECT must work, right, if air pockets there, it CANT work. 4: park car, idle until the minimum engine time is reached parked. about 180F, but all cars overheat if parked, idling and fan stays dead. fan is off , and at some point, the fan goes to low speed. this varies by engine option, but is around 225F. (stage1) THE FSM covers these checks, and rules, and temps. for all 3 stages of fan speed. scan the pcm yet>? got P0128 DTC? or others, for temperatures wrong, not scanning is a big mistake on all modern cars. big time! yes, rad must be full parked cold, yes, yes, yes... side expansion tanks do fail. for many reasons. ask. a 2.0L engine. only, here. 7.4quarts cooling cap. here is ours. usa fan. a 4 wire fan it is.... the ecu controls it using SOFTWARE, (firm-ware in truth) do not drive car until all air is burped out of engine and rad. DO NOT! in fact run it idling to hot. 180f. ( too hot to touch long) , kill engine with key. let cool, to luke warm, or cold. check rad level. (sure its low) top it off, cap it, repeat 3 times, before driving or if it holds levels.

chances are the ecm or computer thinks the vehicle is overheated and will not allow it to start for safety reasons. Check the sensors or replace them.

Did this problem occur after the bleeding procedure or was the bleeding procedure performed to correct this issue? There should be no air in the system unless a brake line was changed/opened or the master cylinder was empty. Sounds as if the master cylinder is defective.