Top 20 2005 Subaru Forester - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hello,

The best way to get that bezel all the way out is to get a short phillips screw driver and remove the HVAC control screws from behind the bezel that are attaching it to the bezel and just gently bend the metal brackets outwards and away from the control head so it can slide out. This is the most effective way to remove the bezel to get to the stereo, unfortunately whenever you try to undo the cables themselves the molded plastic cable receivers always break... always... BUT... I would check to see if you have an amplifier fuse before you go any further. If all the features work on the stereo work except the sound it could just be an amp or a fuse. I hope this info helps!

Hi

White smoke is caused by water and or antifreeze entering the cylinder, and the engine trying to burn it with the fuel. The white smoke is steam. There are special gaskets (head gaskets are the primary gaskets) that keep the antifreeze from entering the cylinder area. The cylinder is where the fuel and air mixture are being compressed and burned. Any amount of antifreeze that enters this area will produce a white steam that will be present at the tailpipe area. If white smoke is present, check to see if the proper amount of antifreeze is inside the radiator and the overflow bottle. Also check to see if antifreeze has contaminated the engine oil. You can look at the engine oil dipstick, or look at the underside of the engine oil filler cap. If the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, it will have the appearance of a chocolate milkshake. Do not start the engine if the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, as serious internal engine damage can result. How did antifreeze get in the oil or cylinder in the first place? The engine probably overheated and a head gasket failed due to excessive heat, thus allowing antifreeze to enter the cylinder (Where it is not meant to be).

So these are the things if white smoke is present;

• Check to see if the proper amount of antifreeze is inside the radiator and the overflow bottle.
• Check to see if antifreeze has contaminated the engine oil.
• Look at the engine oil dipstick, or look at the underside of the engine oil filler cap. If the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, it will have the appearance of a chocolate milkshake.
• Do not start the engine if the oil is contaminated with antifreeze, as serious internal engine damage will likely result.

Also check this links if the car is making grinding noise:-
http://www.ehow.com/how_5692886_diagnose-trouble_-front-end-grinding.html

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/vehicle-grinding-noise

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion. Thank you for contacting fixya.

When was last plug wire change? I'd start there. Plug wires and ignition parts are susceptible to moisture, I'd start with wires.

First step is to access the Engine Control Module (ECM) using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car, in order to pull out all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) memored. Even if engine Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) goes off after engine starting, it's possible to find out temporary DTC codes memored in the ECM. Then you will be full informed about bad components (e.g. bad heated oxygen sensor(s), cylinder(s) misfire(s), bad injector(s), bad ignition coil(s), ... etc). Therefore you will be able to repair & replace bad components and reset the ECM.
In the most cases when you smell something like rotten egg there are bad oxygen sensor(s).

Have you had the engine scanned for trouble codes? That's the only way to find out what is causing the check engine light.

disconnect your supply fuel line and just wind it over to see if fuel was coming out with some force

I have removal instructions on my website www.autoclockrepair.com
It is pretty easy to do, takes maybe 5 minutes. My tip is to remove the clock bezel when it is hot. Plastic is more flexible and less likely to break when warm. Good luck!

take it to autozone or o;rileys they will hook it up to a computer and diagnose it free

plow into a post, take it to a body shop.

You'll need a scanner to erase any code, including an SRS light. If the light is on, indicating there is an issue within the SRS system, it really requires diagnostic and repair due to safety concerns. If the repair is not done to the vehicle and the code is erased, the light will just come back on again.

Just pop off the little storage compartment housing the clock, use a butter knife or thin screwdriver and start at the front edges. It should pop up with a little pressure. From there you can pull out the whole assembly and access the clock.

Subaru part number 85068SA020. It lists for $6

Sylvania bulb part #2723

Your flex line rubber line is got a blockage replace rubber flex line.

It sounds like you are low on engine oil and or a bad oil pump.

Take a look at tip I put online for users to replace there own brake pads on rear of the car. <div><br /></div> <div><a href="http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5251684-replace_brake_pads_rear_car">http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5251684-replace_brake_pads_rear_car</a></div>

the front drive couplings are worn this is not serious so as long as the rubber boots are intact and not split just ignore the noise till it starts making the noise in the straight ahead position

Your fuel system is too lean. It's typically the primary O2 sensor (on the pipe between the engine and the catalytic converter). The mass airflow sensor is also possible but the O2 sensor is a wear item requiring periodic replacement and is more likely.

No ... once you start the synthetic you should stay with it ... continue to use the recommended weight. 75000 is really no miles ... This engine should go for 175 to 200,000 properly cared for.

Your auto parts store that sells Fram can give you the proper filter.

just do not drive. more air in the tires or change oil,. filter, spark plugs,wire, put HHo kit at intake,or get smaller front wheel drive car,best just take bus.save payments,insurance, hoho.

Subaru recommends replacement of the timming belt at 105,000 miles and a timing belt inspection every 30,000 miles.

Please forgive me but I need some more details. Did it die while driving? Would it just not start? Did it get hot? What did she see, smell or hear? I understand the dilema and will try my best to walk you guys through this issue.