20 Most Recent 2003 Subaru Forester - Page 8 Questions & Answers

many thoughts,this can me a stubborn problem to diagnose,i'm not sure how far they got into it but the simple things should be adressed first,inspect throttle body for heavy carbon deposits,of course inspect coil,wires and plugs,have them take a fuel sample ,it would probably be a good idea to clean injectors at this time anyways,also inspect fuel trim to see if your car is possibly running to rich or lean,i could go on and on but these things i mentioned can really narrow down the cause hope this helps good luck!

i'm guessing you have a problem with the release cable?try slipping your credit card in between door and plunger that pops it open,the plunger is located at the rearmost centerof the door ,the door striker that rsts against plunger could just be out of adjustment,if you operate the release and see the plunger moving it's ok,adjust the striker a simple little tug towards the plunger is sometimes all it takes

remove and clean the plugs under the seats.Doing so with the ignition switched off.

try ebay or used i would just replace the one downstream one frist

car does not have an accelerator cable everything is controlled by wiring and sensors,the cruise light will flash because it is disabled due to the check engine lamp being on ,bet its a misfire code,probably a coil or wires

You don't say which vehicle it is or whether the clock is built into the dashboard or is included on the instrument panel. (a) If it's built into the dashboard separately from the instrument panel, you need to remove the clock from the dashboard surround (it may just be a push-fit so if you can see the outer edges of the clock module try GENTLY using a small flat blade to ease the clock out of its receptacle). Once removed from the dashboard, disconnect the wiring plug, then look for a small bulb unit in the back of the clock module. Replace the bulb with a new one, reconnect the wiring connector and test that the clock lights up when the ignition is switched on before re-inserting the module back into its original location on the dashboard. (b) if the clock is part of the instrument panel, you will need to remove the instrument panel in order to get access to the relevant bulb (which will probably be on the rear of the instrument cluster directly adjacent to the location of the clock).

In virtually all cars there is an emergency release mechanism located inside of the trunk. It's either a pull cord, or a means of twisting the release cable to remove the plunger from inside the fuel tank door. Look inside your trunk, pull back the liner if necessary, or feel around where the cable leads to the fuel tank door.

Once you diagnose the problem you will then know whether or not you will need to replace the release cable.

Sorry no the sending unit in your tank is bad replace it. If you are sure of amount of as you have and you know your average MPG you could wait till your tank is low so as not to waste much gas Give yourself a 3MPG reduction for error accountability.

you may need to replace the sensor or relay for the transmission. about the brakes, try checking the disc pads, it may be too thin, have it replaced

Check the wiring and connectors supplying the driver-side window motor and also the fuses in case each window is fused seperately. The electric motor may have failed. When you operate the switch do you hear the motor working?

Without being there to actually hear the noise its hard to say. Make sure your lug nuts are torqued to 90 ft lbs. This noise just started when you put on a new tire? Yes a CV joint can give you road noise.

I would get after the dealership for false diagnosis. You paid money to have it fixed and they didn't fix the problem. Sounds like a BAR violation to me. ( Bureau of Automotive Repair )
The most common problem with what your describing is:
1. Loose or bad strut, suspension parts.
2. Loose brake caliper or not properly seated brake rotor.

Those are the most common things I see in my shop with that type of problem. I wouldn't let the dealership get away with this.

It can be.
You must go to a mechanic with the diagnostic machine to check if there's something more causing that. But you can precheck by yourself, remove the battery cables for a few minutes and check if the llight is still on, this should clear the memory, if not, it means there's something more.

actually this is not only related to sensor but also to other relaying unit and offcourse it is minor electronic fault that can be worked out only at service station..........
hope you enjoy your ride

You could have any of these problems:
1) vacuum leak- broken air hose or disconnected air hose.
2) water in the gasoline- add a water remover to you gas tank.
3) bad or disconnected spark plug wire(s).
If this were my Forester, I'd take it to a mechanic who has a electronic engine tester..

1) Check all the vacuum hoses for a leak in the rubber hose or a hose that isn't connected. Vacuum leaks cause motors to shake and stumble on acceleration.
2) There's a plastic T connection on the back side of the engine behind and under the air cleaner box. That T connector joins together three air hoses of different sizes and is prone to breaking from heat stress. Only a Subaru dealer will have this part.
3) Even though the spark plug wires are new, you may have a bad one. Don't waste your money on cheap parts; they cost more in the long run.
Good luck!

Go to www.subaruforester,org and do a search for clock. This is a chronic problem but if you're handy with a soldering gun you can fix it yourself.

Your throw out bearing is bad. If it was a problem in the transmission, it would not stop until the vehicle is no longer in motion. It would typically get louder as you accelerate.

I had the same problem...brought it back to the dealership (had an extended warranty) and they just made an adjustment. No problems since!