Top 20 2003 Subaru Baja Questions & Answers

Are you losing coolant?

Belt is loose and stretch a little caused squeal, need readjust to tighten it up.

Check battery and alternator, thats a solenoid, it can be replaced..how old is car?

No such item. All window power goes thru master (driver's) switch. Check for broken wire at driver's door hinge area where they flex. Also could start at faulty window to see if power is getting to that switch.

All the windows share a single circuit so there is not a fuse for the passenger window alone. You likely just have a defective window regulator motor.

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Best Manuals

Most parts stores carry after-market repair manuals. They have complete wire diagrams in them.

Check coolant temp sensor and IAC.

If you are driving and you put the vehicle in neutral and coast, push the brake pedal and NOT the clutch pedal and see if the noise is still there. If the noise is there, then you will need to get your brakes checked out. If the noise only happens when the clutch is pushed in, then your clutch release bearing might have something wrong with it. I hope this info helps.

Depending on the car usually on the dash some cars don't have them If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_87482045335a4757

you need 2 persons to bleed brakes one have to seat inside the car and pump or hold brake pressed,Add brake fluid to the top ,next ask someone to pump brake few times when it will get hard,then hold while pressing loose bleeder half a turn the pedal will go all the way down and still need to be pressed ,fluid will run through the bleeder ,then tight bleeder back and repeat the steps ,pump, press, bleed ,few times per each brake caliper ,don't forgot to add fluid to the reservoir

try the crank speed/position sensor as this controls the engine revs as well as other things

The hum is likley your fuel pump priming the fuel delivery system. I would start looking at the wiring coming from the Throttle Position Sensor. With the key in the ON position, you should be getting a 12vDC (or a little higher) signal to one wire and an excellent ground on another (usually the center if there are 3). If you are missing a good ground or the 12v signal, there lies your problem. Good luck.

A code P0113 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• Internally failed IAT sensor
• Faulty connection at IAT sensor
• Open in IAT ground circuit or signal circuit
• Short to voltage in IAT signal circuit or reference circuit
• IAT harness and/or wiring routed too close to high-voltage wiring (e.g. alternator, spark plug cables, etc.)
• Faulty PCM (less likely but not impossible)

P0113 ? intake air temperature (IAT) sensor high output possible cause: bad IAT sensor, wiring, bad ground wire, ECM bad

it could be a heat sheild on the exsaust its not a real problem, but if bothers you that much you could tighten the bolts or even take it off. and about your check engin light it could be your gas cap not being tightened enough because on subaru cars the gas caps must click atlease 4 times or a check engin light will show up due to a code sent to the computer saying the gad cap is loose

Change fuel filter,tune up,air filter.

The best thing to do is completely remove the front drive shaft (assuming you are talking about the front CV boots).1) Jack up the front end of the vehicle.2) Remove front wheel(s), track rod ends and slacken [don't remove completely just yet] the centre hub nut and remove split pin.3) With the gear in neutral, and using an appropriately sized round punch and hammer, punch out the location pin from the drive shaft where the drive shaft meets the gearbox output shafts.4) With the assistance of a flat screwdriver, lever and pull the drive shafts off the gearbox output shafts and let them drop down. 5) Using a rubber mallet, hammer the drive shaft through the front hub. You kept the nut on the end of the shaft initially so as to prevent damage to the drive shaft threads during hammering. This nut will have to be backed off and eventually removed as the shaft slides through and out of the hub unit.With the entire shaft removed from the vehicle:1) Cut off or slacken and remove any rubber boot retaining clips.2) slide the rubber boot(s) towards the centre of the shaft.3) Remove the inner joint first by using a small, flat screwdriver to flick out the retaining wire from the inner lip of the joint. (Keep this wire)4) Slide off inner joint cup and clean.5) Locate the spring clip from the inner end of the shaft and carefully remove without over-stretching. if you have no replacement.6) Slide off inner C.V. joint, and clean.7) Remove damaged boot(s), clean all components, re-grease with LM grease and replace.8) Reinstallation is the opposite of removal steps.Note: Take care when re-installing drive shaft to gearbox output shaft. This will usually only align to a single position. Before tapping retaining pin back into place, visually inspect alignment of the shaft's holes. You can use your round punch to help align the holes before re-installation of the retaining pin.Tip: With the removal of the front drive shafts, it may be a good opportunity to also replace front gearbox output oil seals and front wheel bearing-drive shaft dust seals. These are fairly inexpensive and may prolong the life of components as well as reduce the need for repetitive removal of parts.

get a boot replacement kit remove axle from suspension and trans. clean old grease out of failed axle, stuff new grease into cv joint and put new boot on shaft close to joint. fill the boot with the rest of the tube of cv grease and install per instructions.