Top 20 1992 Plymouth Voyager Questions & Answers

get a short light tester hook up the ground and with the pointed end check each side of the fuse with the dash and interior lights on and key you should find it easily

google it.

IT'S ON THE DRIVER SIDE ,

Hard to see coolant circulating through the cap opening. If the engine is not overheating, the coolant is circulating. To check the heater, first feel both heater hoses at the firewall where the hoses go inside. Both should be hot! If one is hot and one is cool, then the heater core is not circulating, and that is why you have no heat. If both are hot (with engine at normal operating temperature), then the heater core is okay, and the problem may be the heater case doors not operating properly. This is called the temperature blend door problem-common on lots of cars-and caused by either vacuum operated doors or by motor operated doors in the heater case not operating properly. Sometimes the doors break, sometimes the vacuum signal is lost due to leaking vacuum hoses, or the servo canisters not working. In short, if the heater core is hot (if both heater hoses are hot), and the coolant level is not low, then the problem is probably the heater case. check if the doors in the case are working.

Vacuum lines typically can't be repaired only replaced. Step 1. remove a section of line. (take to parts store) 1a may need to remove a hose clamp typically a flat blade screwdriver but sometimes a compression spring type that can be opened with pliers. 2. go to a local parts store. 3. get new vacuum line of same diameter (see step 1) 4. install new line (same way you removed it) never remove all the lines at the same time, too hard to remember where they all go.

Sounds like you replaced the distributor without setting #1 at TDC? The distributor cap should indicate which plug is the #1 plug wire. If there are no inspection plugs you can pop out to see the timing marks on the camshaft gears you will need to disable the starting system (fuel flow) remove #1 plug and turn it over until #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Then insert the distributor cap with the rotor on it, taking note of where the #1 plug tower is on the cap. Once the dist is installed place the cap on and make sure the end of the rotor is aligned with the #1 tower inside, if it is your good to go. If not take the dist out and turn it a bit left or right then put it in again until it lines up correctly (may take a few tries). Once aligned secure everything, replace spark plug and it should fire up.

Before any real damage is done, change the fluid and the filter. That. Is you best chance to get valve body to work properly.

nope it is wired like that from the factory

-Not to scary you, but sound like the transmission need to service soon. Good luck\ Mai

You have an engine light on So as with ALL Vehicle problems You check for codes & resolve them first Simply can't guess at vehicle problems without a vehicle to drive & test

Have you checked base fuel pressure with a gauge ? Have you tested the asd relay ?

"Check engine" light on? Have you cycled key to retrieve trouble codes?

Can you hook up a scan tool? See what the coolant temp sensor is reading. If it says -20 C, it may be the culprit. Injectors are spring loaded solenoids, so they are extremely difficult to stick open. Those vans with the computer in the air duct were prone to failure, hence why Chrysler moved the ECM into the passenger compartment in later years. Take the computer duct off, separate it into halves and check for corrosion on the back side

Well, the car is 20 years running on the road, one can expect gaskets and seals to start leaking. If you stop the leak and keep it full, you may be alright. But running low fluid for very long will definitely damage the transmission, so do get it fixed, and keep it full but not overfull till fixed. There aren't that many places for an automatic to leak. There are axle seals where the two front axles go into the transaxle. Fairly easy to replace. There is a gasket where the bottom fluid pan bolts to transaxle. Also fairly easy to replace. There are two fluid cooling lines from transaxle to radiator or to a small radiator-like cooler in front of radiator. Leaks can develop in the lines, at the fittings where they connect to transaxle or to the radiator. Leaks anywhere there should be fairly easy to fix. There is another seal, a front transaxle seal, and if bad, fluid will be dripping off the bottom front of the tranny where it mates to the engine. If this seal is bad, the transmission will have to be removed from vehicle to replace it. A $5 seal, but the fix requires pulling the transaxle-ouch! That is about all the places where leaks can develop-except there may be some bolted on or screwed in fittings (like the reverse light switch, for one). These fittings would have seals, O-ring seals, or gaskets that may start leaking.If it gets low on fluid that fast, it would seem that you should be able to spot where it is leaking. Use rags and wipe off all the old fluid and dirt from the transaxle. After a drive and then parked, you may be able to see where the leak has allowed new fluid to escape. Good luck.

possibly just a dead battery. that's the easy scenario all going easy

Your car has hydraulic valves, which means they are not adjustable. If they are clattering, you may need to change the oil (If it is dirty) and run some cleaner through the motor.What I mean is, add the cleaner to the fresh oil and filter you put in the motor. 50 years ago, we used to add a quart of automatic transmission fluid to the oil to clean the motor.Automatic transmission fluid is basically colored detergent. We would then drain the oil and transmission fluid when it got dirty, like maybe 500 or 1000 miles. You do not want to put too much oil in the motor, so you would substitute the tranny fluid for the last quart of oil.Be blessed.

The mark should be on the sprocket, clean it well to see it

As with any no start situation, you will need to know if it has spark to the plugs, fuel to the injectors, and normal compression.

Check transmission fluid level

1) Have vehicle checked by a mechanic (with a tire balance machine) for proper balance & alignment of all 4 tires.2) Also, check drive train underneath for a loose "universal joint" (there should 1 to 3 of them). If they're loose or wobbly, they need to be replaced. No more than 30 mins per joint & $8-10 each.