20 Most Recent 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 9 Questions & Answers

old post smoke or steam.? smoke lingers long, steam goes away fast steam smells like antifreeze, sweet and nasty smoke smells like, well, oil burning, take eng. dip stick drip one drop of oil on a hot manifold smell smoke, now.

dimana letak nomor mesin grand cherokee tahun 2012??

Service each code in the order of importance starting with hard fault. Run tests on engine management harness with all the components unplugged to eliminate shorted harness. The schematic for the system shows one wire visits nearly every component. DG/OR. Inspect harness behind the engine, rear of valve cover and where it goes down to the trans. Run tests on the switch at the trans for increased resistance. Near manual valve lever. Inspect the harness for contact with exhaust. check for presence of engine coolant saturating connector for front HEGO, from a leaky waterpump or hose or fittings. While you're there, check for a baggy timing chain. Base engine concerns can lead to numerous repeating engine mgmt. codes on these, with this system. Then replace connectors as required to enable new sensors to last. Last one I had, had to be updated to seal the water/coolant out of the HEGO connection. There has been corrosion on the ones I've checked. Inspect the PCM connectors for corrosion from water entry. Use silicone dielectric to seal it out and protect the integrity of the connections. If you have damage, be careful on those connectors, they dont take well to being disassembled. When inspecting the alternator wiring, look for corrosion, take apart and clean the harness connections. Theres a bulletin/recall for the power distribution center, its connections, and the fuses and relays, as well as the fuse links and cables. Use an ohm meter to establish the integrity of the connections as required based on what you have on yours. It takes alot of patience and time to get to every last connection to restore its integrity. The last one I had had previous leaky battery and customer(s) had monkeyed around. I suggest verifying main ground, PCM grounds, and connectors that feed the harness to the HEGO's. If you are fixing this for someone else, you need to explain it to them at the start and get authorization for time and materials to replace/repair harness and distribution center. The resulting intermittant problems can start happening so often the cost of repair can exceed the value left in the vehicle. Test each sensor and evaluate. Aged parts and previous use of aftermarket parts can confuse the diagnosis. CROWN automotive parts are the best ones available so it stays fixed. And you get the updated connections they have available. Get your TSB/RECALL list and complete them also for safety in the shop. Also get your wiring updates and service manual corrections for the vehicle. I found them in the MITCHELL manual under "dealer info" in the Mitchell database. This vehicle had many updates and is a collection of parts from different makes. The ensuing updates may not have been kept after, nor the tsb's and recalls. There has been a great deal of PCM replacement on some of these due to concerns with its construction. What type you have may be identified by studying the tsb's about crank sensor learn. There is an elaborate discussion about PCM type and proper handling when it gets cleared and then each system has its own module or "brain?" that has to be cleared subsequently, like TCM , and other modules that come in sequence after repair. The dealer uses a DRBIII and has the most success. HAPPY READING ! I know I can fix anything, once I figure out what they did to it.

ok so 1242 is sensor power supply high input ,0703 is detected de-acceleration with no brake switch activity and 0702 is fault with trans control unit i'd guess your having running/accelerating problems ,have the codes wiped and road test and see if problems continue if they do i'd get the ECU checked out as a first step

You don't need to run a wire anywhere.
You need to determine what works correctly and what doesn't.
You have what is a fairly new vehicle, with most likely a minor, easy to repair problem.
Unless your adding aftermarket accessories.

Discribe in more detail, what the issue is, and someone will try to guide you.

You need the front end checked for loose parts.

this is covered in the FSM. in the first chapter. and depends , on the engine option. you have. i spin the wheel of fortune and land on 4.0L I-6 and see chapter, ENGINE. chapter 9-3 , the whole deal even the decode. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

A leaky gas tank is something that can pose a serious hazard. Tank will need replaced or sealed with a product that goes into it. Either way, it will need to come off.

Does it run? if so then the problem is not the crank sensor which is located above the starter motor in the tranasmission bell hopusing.

p0001, ???????? NO SUCH ANI-MULE ! (sure on a CHEVY) the FSM covers that..... why not post engine options, after all its and engine problem , we can not guess that.ever. my FSM shows, no such code, nada ever do the 60k mile mandatory tune up, ever this decade????????? are you at Autozoned? using the wrong scan tool for car? what a shame, that would be chasing Ghosts with no name.... wow. http://engine-codes.com/p0001.html did you do the 3 keyon ways, to get this (ask), why not say who did this how and what tool used (name and model number ) so we can add it to our jeep banned tools list. (love to have it) i use INNOVA 3160, and it works. ok working symptoms now." ENGINE shacks. that is gross misfire,and the CEL flashing warns of impending CAT burn up (oper guide tells that..... and what to do) MISFIRE HAS 25 to 50 causes, are you going to replace 50 parts to guess the cause..... nah. sure not. want to diagnose it? and save 50 hours labor.? and $2000 in parts. , sure.. i have the list of 50 but will not post it, as is silly to do that. it is 1 of 3 things in the macro diagnostic methods. bad engine, bad spark, bad fueling , in that order, always. 1: check all fuses first with a voltmeter or ohms . 2: get a real scan tool that the harbor fright POS and scan it running bad. bingo, real codes. including the full factory codes, P1 or P2 ! you can in fact, rent obd2 tools and barrow them. at a many stores,(USA) and many honest mechancis will use there REAL tool to scan it, for you for free. or for cheap. there is no reason ever to skip #2, ever, in the USA, we have the tools. 3: NO CODES? NO '? id get not but lets pretend no codes. 4: check spark. at all cylinders, fat blue white spark at a fresh test spark plug.(ill assume engine is tuned up, so...) are any spark plug tips, black, or oil soaked or fuel soaked? or looking ugly (this is a top evidence check) 5: spark good, engine compression at 150psi or more times num of cylinders. yea.? then its bad fueling. 6: I start engine, and see the front oxy sensors slammed to lean. yes, scan tool wins again, and LTFT fuel trim, is way off, scale. 7: I check fuel pressure and its way too high. fix that. 8: i check the regulation of the fuel pressure, if bad, the reg is bad. 9: I then do the injector leak down test in the FSM (allcars) it fails. i have a leaking injector. (or leaking reg) say it passes. so i do the fSM (all cars, all engine books EFI) test called the Injector balance test. i find #1 is very weak. its clogged and #1 misfires like a dog, cause the 02 sensor to go nuts. I can show videos of all tests. the man that does that best is Mr. Duane. ask..........?????? he is and ASE master... and does the best vids on the web. here are some. just a sample. http://www.fixkick.com/Duanes-World.html not knowing the engine, type and size, i can not quote specs. good luck.

which engine? sounds to me like you need to watch the dash voltmeter if it reads zero , running the PCM , and spark all die as does engine stall.. so that is first. Voltage. if the gauge is missing like on some cars, (sad) add one or connect any voltmeter to the CIG lighter socket (aka. power port today) or go to any auto store and buy the cheap tool that fits there. called a battery/alt tester (some have LEDs that shift to good , bad) a real voltmeter works better showing real volts. When and engine dies. the PCM sees this, and tries everything in its power to stop that, (fuel and air supplies) but failed. as the PCM falls below the 300 RPM it knows it lost the battle and then goes to boot up self tests. with the CEL glowing if it fails to show the CEL, (stalled) that means in all cases... the PCM lost power. lost DC power distribution. for many a reason. from loose or bad fuses, or bad ignitions switch or as per above filthy battery lugs. how i fix these, (sure it must fail to fix it....... or go broke guessing) is

1. i drive with the voltmeter connected full time. per above.
2. I say it drop. to 0v driving. oops. that is bad.
3. I then move the red test lead (black is on body ground)
4. I move it forward in the path of power distributution, that means to the fuse box in cab that runs ECU power.
5. I then see if the power is lost before that fuse or after.
6. i before i work to the engine bay main fuse box. PDC.
7. I then find the point power does not drop
8. the failure IS between those 2 points,!!!

You shouldn't have to remove valve body, the solenoid should be on the valve body, held in by a single bolt, with a wire plugged into the solenoid.

most likely a problem in the cruise control switch itself.

there is a fuse compartment next to the hood latch.there is also a fuse compartment under the hood on the passenger side.

2003 grand cherokee ! WJ body. jeep. why not take it to a real shop and ask them to find the true cause. in our shop we have an electronic stethoscope ( a $50 tool) t that finds causes, easy. and for sure LOCATION. (if R/F then it is., so look only there) bad wheel bearings, bad rotors. bad brakes, caliper guides seized. loose hub nuts. bad shock. or falling off>? cracked wheel. damaged suspension parts, loose ball joints. a good mech, can flex these parts, parked. and find what is loose? find one, or go to a suspension shop or a pro brake shop. NOISE, only moving? only bouncing? only under power ? only coasting? in any gear. ? only turning.? what?? hopeless for me to guess, id be hands all over car. see why posting here is useless, reason, we cant drive it and hear it.!!! there are 3000 parts on the car, any can make noise. see suspension here. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

I am once again no expert on cars and trucks, but that sounds like the vehicle is overheating and the radiator cant dissipate enough heat, which would likely be whats causing the white smoke, you should definately get this checked out by a mechanic ASAP! although I am no expert on vehicles, this is something I can definately say to get checked out quickly, as in your earliest convienience, because a smoking vehicle is never a good thing, no two ways about that.

i see you lost your operators guide. in the glove box?> it is an engine, and is called the CEL or mil (or ses) the CEL is the CHECK engine light. it glows , running, to tell you that the ENGINE brain, (PCM) sees serious errors, or outright failures. it also says in the missing opr. guide , to get car serviced. on your car, we connect a universal OBD2 scan tool to the 16pin dash port, and scan the PCM. and see all those errors. takes about 5min. work. may auto stores, state side, do this for free. or loan a full tool to do advanced testing, and analysis.