1995 Jeep Wrangler - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Try adjusting your clutch as it is clearly not disengaging properly in second, you might also try adjusting your shift linkage.

Answer
Radio 12v
pink
+
radio harness

Radio Ground black - radio harness
Radio Ignition red + radio harness
Radio Illumination orange (dimmer) + radio harness
Factory Amp Turn-on N/A
Power Antenna N/A
LF Speaker +/- dk. green - brown/red +,- radio harness
RF Speaker +/- purple - dk. blue/red +,- radio harness
LR Speaker +/- brown/yellow - brown/lt. blue +,- radio harness
RR Speaker +/- dk blue/orange - dk blue/white +,- radio harness

Best thing go to www.reliable-store.com they have got books on every vehicle and also how to service/repair it, service/repair/owner's/maintenance manual with parts info, fuse box, gear box, PCV, torque specs,coiling, wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagrams, error codes, etc everything Worth it

You will be safest getting a good auto electrician to look at it. That box could be alarm, insurance 'black box' tracker or something more important connected to the car. Messing about with car wiring can be a really bad idea.

So many of them things could have been checked to see if they was bad or needed to have been replaced. I see this a lot when someone goes to guessing on things and they can end up having a LOT of money invested and still not running. My first guess since you've replaced all of them things is either you may have a ground issue or a bad PCM. I would start by checking that you are getting power to everything that you are supposed to be getting power. Then, I would check that you are getting grounds to everything too! You must have both in order for it all to work! If you are getting both and if you know how to check for both at all places, then I would eliminate the PCM. If it turns out to be the PCM, try checking eBay. Hope this helps.

solve your problem sitting at home i will say just go to the given link and get the solution http://toolsnyou.com/

removing the battery lead to remove the starter motor will have energized the immobilizer reset using a scan tool

When was the last time the transmission fluid and filter changed? I would have that serviced first. If it is an electronic transmission, the line pressure might also have to be reset.

First thing to do is ensure all the transmission oil levels are correct. It is a good idea to draw a little oil into a sight glass to check the condition. Check the condition and security of of the propshafts and universal joints and a thorough wheelfree inspection of the underside. It is perhaps worth noting the gearbox rotates considerably faster than road speed. A road speed ticking is unlikely to be directly related to the gearbox. The only things that do rotate at road or wheel speed are the wheels and things connected directly to them - brake rotors, drive shafts/half shafts, differentials...

there is a static timing setting from which the ECM advances or retards the spark according to sensor reports and rpms using a timing light connected to no 1 cylinder set the mark on the pulley to 10 degrees btdc and that will allow the timing to work properly if there is no scale on the timing cover and a small slot th the pulley flange do this remove no 1 plug and get no 1 piston coming up on compression using a piece of copper wire in the plug hole determine when the piston is at TDC by seeing the wire moves up or down as you move the crank either way place a white paint line at a convenient place on the cover and on the pulley edge now move the pulley back ( anticlockwise ) about 3/4 of an inch and put a second mark on the timing cover That second mark will be close to 10 degrees and will be within the parameters for the ECM to adjust the timing when running using the timing light again turn the body of the distributor until the pulley mark lines up with the second mark you made and clamp it up at that point

it appears from your description that it is a clutch operation problem in that it is not disengaging properly to allow the clean selection of first gear that amounts to air in the hydraulic system, faulty slave cylinder or faulty clutch master cylinder unless you have oil on the clutch plate causing it to stick or a dry or seizing spigot bearing in the flywheel( possible ), there is no report from you about a clutch problem( slipping , shudder smelling hot) At this point replacing both the slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder would be the fix especially if they have not been serviced since manufacture take it to an accredited brake /clutch specialist shop for diagnosis /quote some vehicles have the slave cylinder internal in the bell housing (very bad and repair costly manufacturing idea) and if that is your case , the transmission will have to be removed to replace it should that happen and as the box will be out , it will be cost effective to inspect the clutch at that time

Could be filter could be bad battery or starter.

ok just the word, 6cylinder. but they had many. early wrangler ,called the YJ jeep. true name. be nice to know the VIN, number, xxxx on end., this tells the helper whats there, if still stock , is it? many are NOT. many this old are engine swapped, no photos by you of engine nor distributor... nor the connector pin count on side of distributor. lets do displacement first is it the 4.0L ? with throttle body. injection, or a carb.? 1989 is a year of rapid changes, I had 2x 88s. some have the french EFI , called Renix. with 4 injectors, and a brain dead ECU. horrid. this have there very own different spark systems. I think the last carb ever on wrangler is 1987. before this worse electronic carbs, yup , avoid them. 4.2L inline 6 no the 4.0L (5million made) looks like injection did not happen on YJ until.... 1991. later than all other jeeps, 4 years, late. I had many of the others, my beloved, Comanche 88 500k miles long.... has spark timing, check. has distrib. check has sepr. coil check' has module outside, check. im on line now at mitchells so could you. its" The ignition module is mounted next to the battery on all models. It is a sealed, weatherproof unit on the 4.2L engine. 1987-90 vehicles equipped with a 2.5L engine, incorporate the coil in the control module." seem you have this. says wiki. 4.2 L AMC straight-6 engine, 358cu/in. engine.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Where+is+the+fuse+for+the+rear+defroster+on+an+03+trailblazer&biw=1360&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj-xrzT8rfQAhXH7SYKHWDVCxQQsAQIKQ#tbm=isch&q=Need+diagram+for+steering+column+on+1995+Jeep+wrangler Hope this helps

Sounds like the relay switch in the security system is on its way out ! Refer to You Tube !

you forgot to test the trans on the floor? really? i use a huge electric drill on the front (tape on end) and test the trans fully on the floor. wow.

no inertia switch or power switch --fuses and relays only

You can release the pressure from the caliper by using the bleeder valve, but it is not likely to be the issue, if the piston in the caliper is not centered correctly or is over extended then it is physically stuck. The cylinder and piston in the caliper might need to be replaced if they are scored or damaged.

qss

yours is out? all starters are same. on all cars. (gas) the book is free, posted over 300 times. click free fsm here http://jeepdied.com/ or watch 1000s do it on ebay. 1: disconnect battery post NEG lug first. and tie it back (safe) 2: gain access to starter (the only variance on cars) 3: remove the wire cables, there.(on solenoid) 4: remove the mounting bolts. on starter. 5: it falls and hits your head, (duck) 6: reverse from here. put the lug back last ! no boom;no eat acid.