Top 20 1988 Jeep Cherokee Questions & Answers

Sounds like weak fuel pressure. Need to hook up a fuel gauge to verify. Weak fuel pump or dirty filter or restricted fuel lines. Also possible fuel pressure regulator.

Quite a puzzle you have that seems impossible, though such things weren't unusual in the old days of bimetal flasher units. The modern electronic flasher relay is designed to flash at a speed dependent on the amount of current drawn by the circuit so if a bulb goes out the speed doubles or thereabouts, giving the driver an indication something is wrong. Broadly speaking the flasher unit will operate as it is designed within a current range so if there is too much current flowing or not enough it probably won't work at all. The turn signal switch is usually a very reliable thing and as the left hand lamps light it is fair to assume it is working ok. If the switch is accessible it would be simple to measure the current being consumed by the circuit, which would be nearly 4 amps with the engine running at a fast idle. If it isn't then I suggest you revisit the lamp grounds and other connections. My instinct is to suspect the hazard warning switch. It is often an unnecessarily complex switch and wiring arrangement and often responsible for turn signal malfunctions. Mostly operating the switch rapidly for a few minutes puts matters right, though if it doesn't I suggest you check the multiway connector behind the switch.

books on 88s are hard to findowned 2, 88s. French REnix, EFI, just plain old sux.... the TPS is near 1vdc at idle.(out pin)it's just a POT. 5v /\/\/\/\/ground....then the output is the tap lug called throttle angle.1v is par.never 4v that is Wide open throttle, 100%4.64v is power, spec, is 4.5 to 5.5v , 5v is perfect, its just a 5v power regulator in the ECU that runs external sensors.that is good.all 88s love to have the ISC stick when it sticks idle screams.cleaned mine 100s of times. in 300k miles.then used Siberian gun oil slick on it and ended that. this gun oil dries and looks like fry plan TEFLON,amazing stuff,the stepper motor jams at the valve cone.ever 10,000 miles on mine, even both brand new cars.... did.back to TPS page in the service manual, I have.realquote."Throttle position sensor is nonadjustable. Only outputvoltage can be monitored." (for errors, my comment added.)that means its learned. never calibrated.watch out for kids, they hear advance timing and 2x more horse power and they find out later the distributoris injector sync, and takes a dealer DRB scan tool to set.leave the distributor alonethe spark timing is carved in the side of the flywheel for ever.and is not adjustable at alland that CKP if played with, it is a buggger to re tune,!its a dang 2 wire Faraday sensor with trick gap setting.thats it for now..

get it serviced, ask any shop in town to diagnose this.

You have a bad short to frame with some of your wiring to lights. A very close visual inspection with a bright light (I like the new led) should reveal broken insulation or cut. It may have been an accident repair area.

one of your tires is probably lower than the other. for a blessed red than the other tires. causative to turn at different speeds. the easiest way to get it out is to raise the vehicle up so all 4 tires off the ground.

happens with me all the time in my 97 Grand Cherokee

Anything can But it would be cheaper to replace it since you most likely can't get a part number off the old one let alone they are pressed in and for you to remove it and attempt to repress one in IF you can find one will be a nightmare, . around 60 buck from an auto parts store or about 9 hours to attempt to replace 1 with no idea of how long it will last if you find it.. Good luck. BCB

1988 is a TRANSITION year, in the USA> is car USA? from non OBD to OBD1. USA federal mandated. on my 2, cars., it had the I6 engine. with FRENCH RENIX system. (junk ,imo, but run it for 500k both cars)"no scan tools" and that system was pre OBD car. there are no blinking CEL that year. no scan tools,. just magic RENIX. we used 5 gas to test it. sorry. this changed in 1993 when the french injection was replaced with real Chrysler OBD1 systems. and ECUs, there is only a EMMIS light and clock timer, most are removed it just a timer to tell you, hay buddy the leaded gas has killed the CAT totally useless now. ive removed many, a 12vdc electric clock, no magic no brains,just that (have the guts) some smog shops dont even know this, its in the FSM. every word,,,, next question, can answer many Renix questions. my jeeps only loved to crack the SST exhaust manifold. so kept welding it. (not cast iron thank gosh)

Sounds like it may be your ignition switch itself, it is making contact to let you start the jeep, but not making a disconnect when you turn it off.

old post but 88s are so rare , so here we go. the answer.ok its a manual transmission, (i had 2 that year,) the xj and the Comanche PU truck , a pair. (drove the snarf out of them)the post is weak sorry, but you didnt tell the full story,.huh?is engine running? fails to shift parked engine off>?????cant start engine in 1st gear??? (pickone or reverse) with clutch depressed to floor and car moves doing so?) or stalls.....?that is a bad clutch. it will start in neutral, with a bad clutch. so..... that be key fact there.or is this a post that means, car starts ok in gearbut cant shift moving, only a moving car issues ?we cant guess any of that, it must be stated.my 88s both had crapppy" Peugot trans", and worse a coaxalthrow out bearing , that took me 10 long hours (4wd)to replace, my new JK jeep its only 1hrs work on slave.the first clue (bad) is the clutch master cylinder fluid drops lowerday by day or every week, oops. that be the first clue."from 1st" is my only clue.surely you can better that. do tell.. please.

What car? Year? Make? Engine? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_8f8ad0a8f7e0e6d3

post in English, this is USA forum.

loose wiper fuse. connections. it's and old car, and anything is possible this old. and is. there are 2 paths I walk and more. 1: visual inspections of each related part, connectors etc. 2: then lay in traps. i use a thing called a VOLTMETER. i connect it to the motor, (some times for a week) and when it fails, I look at it. oops i got power to the motor so the motor is dead. NOW. or no power, so the supply is bad. so in that case>? i move the meter test point backwards, to find WHO dies. its that simple, and a meter cost $20 even a rusty ground to the wiper base motor mount. good power means both 12v and ground .

in the dash ,near center, its Renix ECU, and i had 2 , 1988, good luck with this system there is very little support for renix. no scan tools work is one problem.

the car has like 100 lights (you lost the all>?) fix head lamps first.!!!! which ones, the head lamps, and parking lamps, highs and lows? starts and idles, ok. but will not go in to gear. (must be A./T tranny, as all gear boxes have gears and that dont tell me what trans you have nor engine options) my guess, HL died. so you blew a fuse. or have corroded battery cables. or have corroded underhood fuse box. or other connections from engine bay to cab fuse box. my guess, is to put a voltmeter in the dash and wire it to ignition next time you will see why it fails, you lost DC power. some 88s had the ELECTRONIC shifted transmission. most have just a simple pure mechically run A/T ive no idea at all what trans you run, (find out,by looking) if its not electronically shifted By TCM puter then the trans failure is unrelated, but if it is a TCM tranny , then you lost DC power to the TCM TOO. easy huH?

double posted, back up 1

A/T problems. seems a bad tranny. go to any tranny shop and ask for help. this old car has no TCM brain, to get flash codes. so , its 100% mechanical. and bad. or read that page in the FSM on that symptom,. it does have that in the book, seen it. (you wont like the parts bad ,deep inside)

First confirm the oil level is adequate by checking the dip stick. If the oil level is okay you may have a partial blockage that is starving the oil line leading to the sensor. Missed regularly scheduled oil changes may result in this happening. If sludge is the problem your dealer can recommend an oil additive that may clear out the problem. You may also have a failed sensor as well.

main rod starting to go out. still fixable.

rod barring on its way out