20 Most Recent 1988 Jeep Cherokee - Page 7 Questions & Answers

got me thinking, have you bore scope your cylinders to check for carbon build up,this will cause pre-ignition depending on how bad it is, also have you check your fuel press and volume it maybe running way to lean, hope it helps you .
good luck

email @ [email protected] and ill send u the pdf file for it.

when was the last time you changed out you rotor button the rotor cap spark plugs and wires that should resolve your problem

there is a frost plug there

Ask your question, you will get a reply {like this one} then you "rate" the reply {like this one, go on click on a rating} then you post a reply to the person who replied to you, and that's it. Do you understand?

here is a diagram of the engine bay and its components. if this is not what you needed please comment back and i will try to assist you further.

It changes the shift points. If it is set to economy, it will shift at lower speeds for better fuel economy. If its set to power it will hold the gears longer for more power.

I would be inclined to run the tap in first before drilling as this might just clean up the threads enough to be able to refit the sensor. when tapping remember the manifold might be very hard due to heat so be carefull not to break the tap. If that doesnt work then you use to be able to get thread inserts (use to get them for stripped out spark plugs) but I dont know if you still can. You could always try a scrap yard (dont know where you are but in UK they are called scrap yards) for a second hand manifold.

it sounds like a relay. disconnect all the relays and your car should run most likely your choke relay.

just renew the cap and the rotor arm its may not show a visable crack but its tracking out somewhere or it would start .

If you are repairing the engine to this level, a bottom or top rebuild, you should already have a chiltons. If not, what are you doing?! These specifications along with many necessary others should be in your repair manual unless you are just gathering this information for fun. Sorry about the lecture, but if you don't have torque specs for this, what else do you not have. Not only do you need the torque specs but each head bold needs to be torqued in a certain sequence as well. Head bolts are torqued in specific order gradually bringing the cast iron head to specification over three torque sessions.

I advice you to fix it because if not, The muffler will keep jumping and the fact that its a heavy part it will pull the rest of the pipe and you fix will be so expensive. Good luck bro

Sounds like the fan motor is shot...or the fan impeller itself is rubbing on something...more than likely..the motor is shot and you will need to replace it

• When replacing a water pump, it is necessary to drain the cooling system.
• Any components--belts, fan, fan shroud, shaft spacers, or viscous drive clutch--should be removed to make the pump accessible. Some pumps are attached to the cylinder block as shown below.

Installing a water pump.

• Loosen and remove the bolts in a crisscross pattern from the center outward.
• Insert a rag into the block opening and scrape off any remains of the old gasket.

WARNING When working on the coolant system (for example, replacing the water pump or thermostat), a certain amount of coolant will spill on the floor. The antifreeze in the coolant causes it to be very slippery. Always immediately wipe up any coolant that spills to reduce or eliminate the chance of injury.

• When replacing a water pump, always follow the procedures recommended by the manufacturer.
• Most often a coating of good waterproof sealer should be applied to a new gasket before it is placed into position on the water pump.
• Coat the other side of the gasket with sealer, and position the pump against the engine block until it is properly seated.
• Install the mounting bolts and tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to the torque specifications with a torque wrench. Careless tightening could cause the pump housing to crack. Check the pump to make sure it rotates freely.
• The water pumps on many late-model OHC engines are driven by the engine's timing belt. When replacing the water pump on these engines, always replace the timing belt.
• Make sure all pulleys and gears are aligned according to specifications when installing the belt.

Loss of coolant,steam, coolant in oil, Oil leak, Loss of compression. Don't forget now engines do have freeze plugs and those sometimes rot out. Fill the radiator and replace the cap run the engine and look underneath the engine bay and inside. If you are losing fluid determine what fluid it is. Don't mistake a blown head gasket for a cracked block. Don't mistake a cracked cylinder head for a cracked block. You can crack a cylinder head just as well as you could crack a block. After you have determined a leak shut the car off. And squeze one of the hoses the coolant will spray or drip out of the crack or hole.
Hope this helps
Please leave me a good feedback.
Thanks

Hi

it sounds like a poor earth connection, mostly this is either from the battery terminal or from the battery lead to the car body, the wire is either black or brown and should have a good connection metal to metal to and from the car body. please note just the black wire not the red one. there are 3 main earths on a car thats the biggest one the other goes to the gear box and the 3rd is in the boot normally.

if the earth is poor the the battery is over compensateing to start the car and keep it going hence it dies after so long, and will most likely still start the nest day after it has been left a while.

hope this helps
Regards
Dan

2 things to check for the egr and vacume lines that go to and from it and the cps(crankshaft position sensor).

i have a pdf file on an 88 jeep vacume routing,e-mail me at [email protected] and ill send it to you

change plugs wires and fuel filter

Opoen the hood and check for broken or disconnected vacuum hoses.