20 Most Recent 2000 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 4 Questions & Answers

the dealer sells parts ,ever look there>? there not many dealers to just walk in to. google Isuzu , oem parts. that is all there is, then call them on the phone, isuzu online parts listings STINK. they are in same class as. Yugo Daewoo Suzuki GEO they bugged out. worst is a daewoo with 1/2 suzuki guts.

what are you doing? just service, (called a tuneup) or doing repairs, does car run? now? or you know all that, but fail to say what part you want to change. IGNITION has many parts. all spark generation parts?, including spark plugs. Ignition key switch has that word ! so does the implications of bad CMP and CKP causing spark to end. as does some fuses. what's tell a story, ? a goal, a job, or?

Think its the instrumentclustr thats bad. They wear and napa has xchanges. When computr bad...hole car gos haywire. See if u can return unit

ok is that an auto or a stick??????????????????????????if you'd have stated the fluid type.,we'd not need to guess that.ill now guess, auto, running ATF fluid.slips is bad news, if the fluid levels are correct, done the correct way, not guessing or doing it like any engine oil checks.!do you know how? and not over fill it. causing aeration of the ATF and trans damage? and slip.... if it slipping in what Reverse or DRIVE or L or 2 on the selector>?you didnt say where the shifter was...?????????if a stick shift the clutch is bad.is the clutch master cylinder level hold at the top line , not droppind daily or weekly?what if the A/T box shifter cable is loose. and you are not really in gear.is it 4wd?, did kid bump the 4wd selector to N?yet another post about drive lines and the options on the drive line unstated..

Sounds like a ground problem. Some mechanics always disconnect the battery. I would start there.

lots of reasons, over 50but got spark, to all cylinders? that is a classic test, same for 100 years now... from tin lizzy days.ever do a full tuneup this decade?is the immoblizer lamp , active telling you why?most this hear immo kills cranking.ok, i just looked at alldate.comthe immo kills starter in 2000 , also.so spark is next or better google engine basicsread the basics tests.1: compression over 150PSI all cyl.. WOT tested.2: spark to all cylinders, and timed right. will start and run for 3sec. on test fuel, even with gas tank empty.3: fueling, lots of tests. ask if you can get this far. (fuel pressure at spec?)those are the basics. now more hints on EFI.the EFI will cut fuel for any of 3 errors seen by the ECU.1: lost CKP (crank sensor)2: lost CMP cam sensor3: tacho line dead (thinks spark bad,EVEN IF GOOD)facts.fact 4: is the why not scan it crankingall usa cars 96+ you scan it and crank of 5 seconds and the ECU will tell you , fails for 1,2,3above.facts. crank , release key, bingo, DTC errors P03xx (bingo?)

This problem is often caused by a faulty relay on the alarm module.

The module has three identical relays on it, one for the front wipers, one for the rear wipers, and one for something else. You can probably find a small 12V relay at your local Radio Shack. If not, Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com) sells everything you need.

Remove the alarm module (A & C module - under the glove box). You might also want to remove the keyless remote box and the support bracket to give you more room to work). Desolder the relays and install new ones. You'll need a small soldering iron (about a 40 Watt) with a pencil tip, a solder removal bulb (solder ******), some desoldering braid, and some rosin core solder. Be careful with the heat around other components on the board. Too much heat may damage one or more of the surrounding chips or relays. Once the new relays are soldered in, slide the board back into the plastic module, snap it together, and reattach it under the glove box.

check fuse box for IP label. Instrument Panel

try 0.017" intake and exhaust

well, you could inspect it. older post. person 1 sprays car with water. person 2 looks under dash and windows for leaks. there is no other way. in fact this is stated in the FSM book on every car made, just this test. if you cant see obvious damage , or cracked seals. then....test it.

Could be your neutral safety switch, or it's not all the way in park. Broken or loose wires in the starting circuit. Inspect all wires and connectors at the battery, starter solenoid, and ignition switch. Or your starter pinion is jammed in the ring gear. Remove starter and inspect. Last but not least, your engine is seized. You don't want that one. Good luck.

Usually because of an ignition or gas related problem. You need to check for spark at the plugs and for gas at the engine. A quick method to check for a gas problem is to spray some starting fluid into the air intake on the throttle body. Take off the big boot from air filter housing to the engine, spray a shot of fluid into the engine, then try to start it. If it fires up and tries to run from the fluid for a few seconds, then you know it is a fuel problem. Maybe the fuel pump has quit working, or the fuel filter is clogged. If both are good, maybe a fuel injector circuit problem, less common but possible. If nothing happens from the starting fluid, it may be ignition related-not getting spark. Pull off a spark plug wire from a spark plug and hold the plug wire end terminal about 1/4 inch from an engine bolt or ground. Have someone crank the engine over from the key and watch for a consistent, blue, snapping spark. If no spark, test a few other plug wires to verify no spark at all. So it is not just one ignition coil not working, but none of them produce spark. No spark means the ignition system needs diagnosing. Sometimes it is the ignition control module that goes bad-it can be tested at any parts store. Post back and we can go from there.

the drain is at the bottom of the evaporator box ,normally on the centre of the cabin ,through the floor near the gear box they normally block up in the box outlet point from dust and gunk

Hi!!
Turn headlights on for a minute and then try to start vehicle with the lights on. The click will disappear, so is the rest of the battery charge. Jump start vehicle and take it to an AutoZone or similar Autoparts to have the charging system checked at no charge to you. this is a free service to all their customers..
The you will only hear that click when the battery is weak.. It could be due to a faulty alternator, battery or some light or accessory was left on for too long. The checking of the charging system is only to make sure everything is cool.
Good Luck!! Keep me posted!!

run the fault codes to check for a failed TCM check that the wires to the auto are in good condition and are clean at the terminals.

manual or auto bet automatic. alldata.com has this. but really you don't need to read that. cable off trans.end. set the transmission to say, drive. position at the t actual trans manual shift lever on side of trans. (the PRNDL switch may be here) count the detent clicks., (easy huh?) to drive PRND bingo there. then attach the cable and get it to the Drive marker in the cab console. the lock it all down. the test all gears. park and neutral , in drive way, not on road yet. if all ok, hit the road.

Use this link to find info on all towable vehicles from 1999 to present. http://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2012/12/motorhome-towing.php

call your dealer,only they can get codes

Your transmission linkage needs to be adjusted

A feed wire must be backfeeding into both control circuit wires.