20 Most Recent 1999 Isuzu Rodeo - Page 8 Questions & Answers

sounds as though the cylinder,s etc are a bit clogged up, try some diesel fuel addative,as with all diesel engines if they do not get long and regular journeys the glow plugs,injectors etc get clogged ,as the engine does not get hot enough to burn these deposits off on short stop start types of journey's . you are possibly looking at replacing the glow plugs but give the addative a try and if possible take for a long drive 2-3 hours at steady highish speed , ok to repeat the addative and long drive once more ,if no improvement will need to go into the repair shop to have the glow plugs seen to at the very least , good luck

Did you do all of the work yourself, including draining out the existing freon? Did you have the system vacuumed and tested for leaks prior to putting freon back in?

what is the problem there are a series of fuse in the ecu that can be replaced. you can even send it off to repair it or upgrade it. this will depend on what area you live in US-UK etc.

It is called the PCM. Older models it is the ECM. but back to the cost, here is what I show, about $300.00 with core. go here for more info on your model, you will need to call them for exact price. Isuzu ECM Rebuilt Isuzu ECM

Not sure why you ask the question. You probably check the trans fluid level with the fluid warmed up and engine running. If you have an Owner's Manual, check there for the procedure. If you don't have one, I suggest checking the level as I show above, then add fluid if needed in small amounts with the engine running, check the level after adding every SMALL amount (you do not want to overfill the trans. and stop adding when it's between add and full.

i have same problem. get ready to pay around 2400+. as a matter of fact mine is in the shop right now. you cannot check the fluid yourself. it's up under the bottom. no dip-stick. its a joke, i have a 99 rodeo. will drive it long enough to get my 2400 out of it and then its a gonner !!!! sounds like it is going to create alot of problems if i keep it.

Just unbolts from the body & filler hose has to come off it I do not think one person ever comes to this site, having even looked over their vehicle No way to know what people want told to them.

Check the grounding from the starter, in fact, check all the heavy ground wires, put a multimeter across the starter too.. but always check fuses first as an added precaution, check your ignition wires are sound (is the key loose in its cylinder ?) sounds like grounding though....having replaced those two components, are all the wires solidly connected... good luck Red.

wire up headlight globe into the fuse position that blows, headlight globe will glow very bright when short is there, careful you dont have globe on things that can melt or burn eg. plastic or carpet etc..glass and area around it gets hot now everything will work but the circuit that has the short to ground and you wont melt wiring or cause dammage to other components. you now need to disconnect connectors and components one at a time to work out which section of wiring or component has shorted. to work this out a wiring diagram would come in handy. when the globe goes out or is very dim as in filerment element in globe just glows red like heater element short is gone.

Have a look here. P0304 OBD II Code

This has so many variables...is the serpentine belt the original? It can be hardened with age, quiets when warmed up...could be tensioner pulley, this noise could come and go however...also is your weather very cold? If equipped with an automatic transmission, the age can exhibit unique cold sounds...if tranny never serviced, add a bottle of Lucas Oil Transmission Stabilizer to tranny fluid...read instructions, you do not have to drain anything...This is highly recommended for cleaning tranny. Hope this helps.

might be dry drive belts try sum wd40 spray on belts an see if this quietens them if so might be better to have them replace as a sign of wear

what engine do you have, 2.6 petrol, 320 V6?

Line the outer up in the right place and enter it until the circlip is against the splines . Use a large heavy hammer and rap the end of the shaft hard and the circlip will pop in the groove and allow the shaft to go home.. Removal from the shaft is much the same as it has a circlip inside the transmission. So remove the shaft from the wheel. Use a hammer to hit the cv joint so that it jumps the shaft out of the transmission .

check for switch on side of transmission close to shift linkage .this does not affect lighting /that may be your headlight switch