Top 10 1992 Isuzu Rodeo Questions & Answers

Hi,

On the 3.2L distriburorless ignition, the firing order is a straight 1-2-3-4-5-6.

Cylinder numbering .

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Hope this works for you

Hi,
Isuzu seem to have complicated things by changing engines, firing orders and even direction of rotation! As you can see, they've numbered the cylinders the other way than the 3.2L.

The Firing sequence for the 3.1 (traditional distributor) 6 cylinder is as follows -



If you take the distributor cap off, there should be a "No.1" formed on the inside. Stick a lead on this before you put the cap back on and go from there.
As leads are different lengths, you may have to swap a few to find the best fit.

I think 2 of them will look out of place - but that's the way it's designed. Just make use of clips for holding them neatly.

Thanks for using Fixya.

a very common problem with these engines is a clicking sound in the engine, it can be a slight annoying click, to a loud knocking sound. I end result is usually the same, replace your timing belt and tensioner. I researched this problem when i bought mine, and it was knocking. i replaced the timing belt, (which was loose) and actually took the tensioner apart and cleaned it (not recommended for the mechanically challenged). new tensioners may be tought to find. when i put it all back together, it ran smooth and quiet.

That absolutely sounds like an axle (wheel) bearing. Jack up that corner of the truck and grab the top and bottom of the wheel, and shake like crazy. If you have any play whatsoever, it's a sign of a bad bearing (although you could have a bad one and not have any play - it would only mean the bearing isn't worn badly enough to cause looseness in the wheel).

You should be able to remove the axles without opening the diff up. If the axles have c-clips or snap rings on the ends inside the diff, you can usually get the axles out by dismounting them from the hubs and getting them free of all attachment except the diff, and then use a large flat-tip screwdriver as a pry bar. Use it right where the axle body mates to the diff, and lever it while you pull/yank/shake/swear at the axle, and you'll manage to pop the axle out of the diff. Sometimes it takes some time and profanity, but so far it's worked for me everytime.

did u check the catalyst is it loose inside..see how much back pressure from the exhaust u r getting

Here is your diagram. Good Luck and say thanks..lol http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/2000/isuzu/rodeo/2000_isuzu_rodeo_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.asp try this site out and see if it will help you.

You need to buy a repair manual first. You must have the feon removed, because you must disconnect the AC lines from the evaporator, It took me about 4 hours. The screws are under the dash at each end plus in the middle there is a support brace bracket.

NOTE: The right axle shaft is an integral part of the right halfshaft assembly. Removal of the left axle shaft involves disassembling the shift-on-the-fly four–wheel drive gearbox. The inboard joints of both halfshafts fit through the axle mounting brackets, which are bolted to the axle housing, therefore the axle housing should be removed from the vehicle for ease of disassembly.

1. Shift the transfer case shift lever into 2H. Drive the vehicle a few feet forward and reverse to verify that the front axle is disengaged.
2. Set the front wheels and steering wheel in the straight–ahead position. Lock the steering column in this position, and remove the key.
3. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
4. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
5. Remove the front wheels.
6. Remove the radiator skid plate.
7. Remove the transfer case skid plates.
8. Drain the oil from the differential.
9. Unbolt the calipers from their brackets. Support the calipers out of the way on wire hangers. Don't disconnect the brake hoses. For more information, refer to Section 9.
10. Remove the caliper mounting bracket from the steering knuckle.
11. Remove the automatic hub and brake rotor assemblies. Note the positions of the hub snaprings, shims, and lockwashers for reassembly.
12. If equipped with ABS, unbolt the front wheel sensor brackets from the steering knuckles. Move the sensors out of the work area. They do not need to be disconnected.
13. Use a ball joint separator tool to disconnect the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends, and then remove the steering knuckles.
14. Matchmark and disconnect the pitman arm and idler arm. Remove the steering linkage as an assembly.
15. Unbolt and remove the suspension crossmember from its brackets at the lower control arms.
16. Matchmark the front driveshaft flanges to the differential and transfer case flanges. Unbolt and remove the front driveshaft.
17. Support the front axle assembly with a floor jack and safety stands.
18. Remove the 4 bolts which secure the right halfshaft axle mounting bracket to the differential. Do not unbolt the left halfshaft from the axle.
19. Remove the mounting bracket bolts which secure the right and left axle mounting brackets to the vehicle's frame.
20. Separate the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly from the differential and allow it to rest on the lower control arm. If only the right halfshaft needs servicing, stop the axle removal procedure at this point. Remove the right halfshaft from the vehicle along with the axle assembly mounting bracket. Skip to Step 22 for further right halfshaft disassembly. WARNING
    Be careful not to damage the CV–joints, boots, or splined shafts when removing the axle.
    
21. Follow these steps to remove the axle assembly:
    1. Verify that the axle assembly is securely supported by the floor jack. Remove the safety stands.
    2. First, slide the axle to the left to release the splined stub axle of the right halfshaft, if still installed.
    3. Next, lower the axle slightly and slide it to the right so the left halfshaft clears the left lower control arm.
    4. Finally, completely lower the axle from the vehicle.
22. Remove the right halfshaft from the vehicle. Follow these steps to remove the right axle shaft seal and bearing:
    1. Remove the snapring from the splined shaft.
    2. Remove the shaft bearing. Use a puller if necessary, but don't damage the shaft or splines.
    3. Remove the inner snapring.
    4. Remove the axle mounting bracket and oil seal from the right halfshaft.
23. With the axle out of the vehicle, unbolt the left halfshaft from the axle case. Remove the halfshaft together with the left axle mounting bracket.
24. Follow these steps to remove the left axle shaft seal and bearing:
    1. Remove the snapring from the splined shaft.
    2. Remove the shaft bearing. Use a puller if necessary, but do not damage the shaft or splines.
    3. Remove the inner snapring.
    4. Remove the axle mounting bracket and oil seal from the left halfshaft. To install: NOTE: Use new self–locking nuts and color–coded bolts when assembling the axle assembly mounts and suspension components. Suspension fasteners should be tightened to their final torque specifications when the vehicle is on the ground.
       
25. Visually inspect the axle shafts for wear and damage.
26. Lightly lubricate the bearing and grease seal with differential oil before installation.
27. Assemble the left and right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assemblies
    1. Install the axle mounting bracket onto the halfshaft.
    2. Lubricate and install a new oil seal.
    3. Install a new inner snapring.
    4. Install a new bearing.
    5. Install a new outer snapring.
28. Place the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly into position, and rest it on the right lower control arm. If only the right halfshaft was removed, skip Step 28.
29. Position the axle and left halfshaft assembly on a floor jack. Raise the axle into position.
30. Fit the right halfshaft and axle mounting bracket assembly into the differential. Make sure the splined stub axle shaft is fully seated. Be careful not to distort the oil seal when connecting the right mounting bracket to the differential.
31. Install the mounting brackets and halfshafts to the axle housing. Tighten the mounting bolts to the following specifications:
    • 1995 1⁄2 Rodeo with air bags — 85 ft. lbs. (116 Nm)
    • 1988–95 Amigo, Rodeo, and Pick-Up — 61 ft. lbs. (82 Nm)
    • 1995 Trooper — 85 ft. lbs. (116 Nm)
    • 1988–94 Trooper — 61 ft. lbs. (82 Nm)
32. Raise the axle assembly into its final position and support it with safety stands.
33. Install the mounting bracket bolts, nuts, and spacers. The washer fits under the bolt and the spacer is used with the nut. Tighten the mounting nuts and bolts:
    • 1988–96 Amigo and Pick-Up — 112 ft. lbs. (152 Nm)
    • 1988–95 Trooper and Rodeo — 112 ft. lbs. (152 Nm)
34. Install the steering knuckles and assemble any suspension components that were disconnected or removed.
35. Install the brake backing plates and the rotor and hub assemblies.
36. Install the caliper mounting brackets and the brake calipers.
37. Check the lubricant level in the differential and add oil if needed.
38. Verify that all axle assembly mounting components have been installed.
39. Align the front driveshaft matchmarks. Install the driveshaft flange bolts and tighten them to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm).
40. Install the suspension crossmember and tighten the bolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
41. Install the steering linkage assembly.
42. If equipped, reconnect the ABS front wheel sensors.
43. Install the radiator skid plate. Tighten the bolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
44. Install the transfer case skid plates and tighten their bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
45. Install the front wheels.
46. Lower the vehicle, remove the rear wheel blocks and adjust the ride height.
47. Check and adjust the front wheel alignment.
48. Tighten the suspension bushing fasteners to their final torque specifications. Refer to Section 8 for these specifications.
49. If necessary, bleed the brake system.
50. Verify that the front axle and hubs engage and disengage properly.
51. Road test the vehicle.

more like a head gasket .thermostat is located on the engine end of the top hose with two bolts holding it on