2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There must be a way to get the inside panel off. Then you could see and work the handle levers. From the handles to the latching mechanism, small rods work them. They attach on both ends. You will be able to see how the handles trip the latch, then grab the right rod and pull or push it in the right direction to open the door latch. You can do it, hard to describe w/o seeing one, but all work similar. Little rods, that's all you need to know. Uh, well, getting the door panel off is the biggest hurdle. Several screws, some may be hidden, be patient, plastic pin type fasteners along the bottom and up the sides of panel have to be popped out-usually one about every 4-6 inches. Once you get it loosened up, you will easily find the rest of the attaching points. Lift the panel up from the window channel and away. Peel the plastic ("waterproof barrier") film off carefully. You will want it to get a good reseal when you are done. Now you can see the inner parts, and how the handles operate the latch. Once opened, spray with a penetrant, check the door sill all around, check for visible reasons it stopped opening. Sometimes the rods get stretched or bent, and the handles won't work. Good luck, big "do not slam" sign on that door, okay?

have some one apply pressure on the inside of the door while you press the release handle. May be even a good bump will help as you have jammed the door lock in the latch

check the spark, sounds like the coils are going bad but it may be a fuel delivery problem.

If the steering wheel is under great tension, this can cause the key to be unable to unlock the steering column or turn in the cylinder. Try pulling the wheel first to the right while turning the key, and if that fails, then the left. Often this will release the tension and allow the key to turn and the column to unlock.

sometimes you can get a bad alternator from the factory, exchange it for another.

just loose the bolts in the brake clinder first, then you can take out the intake pipe easily. and loose the bolts and pin on the brake pedal ,then all the brake booster will be take out.more information, see at : http://www.fiverhope.com

alternator or bad battery have them checked and replaced sometimes you can get bad ones seeing there all rebuilt these daysreset dtc's and check also another possibility is your radio failing this is security device connected to lots of vehicle items

Check fuses. Your owners manual manual for will help find location.

If you have a digital display I will recomend you take it to a dealer as it may require a sca diangostics of the body controll module as there are extensive circuits in these climate control systems without the proper tools and know how damage to these circuits may occuur under misguided information

it only takes 2 things to fix power.a voltmeterand alldata dot com.(a road map we call it)see power distribution page. its all there. no guessing.will cost you $15, 1/10 of 1hour shop labor, really its free.here is discounted link,http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html

If you have a vibration and you have eliminated the suspension and steering take a close look at the tyres. Look for bulges on the side walls , raised section of treads. Have the tyres rebalanced. Tyres are prone to belt seperation which causes vibrations

what engine size 2.4L 3.5L or 3.6L.

There is a dead short somewhere linked to that fuse, problem won't be solved until you find what is shorting out that fuse. Atleast that is the first thing to figure out. I did some digging around if you do a google search on the problem, with the van model year and 20 amp engine fuse you will find all kinds of articles.Biggest issue I seen pop up was the wire to o2 sensor, shorting out, also that fuse may also connect to the fuel pump and and related circuit. Hopefully that helps point you in the right direction I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_54ae41aaaffbab00

the culprit is fuse f12 -a 10 amp fuse on the right end of the small fuse panel by below the hood release under the dash. I had same problem - something is blowing the fuse; in my case it was something in the backup light circuit. This fuse is the power source for the relay coils that power all the other circuits that stopped working.

You need to replace the radiator,the trans.is cooled through the radiator and the antifreeze is getting into the trans.You will also need to flush all the old trans.fluid out and change the filter and fluid because they are now contaminated.

Could be a problem with the engine computer, or the speed sensor in the transmission.Is the check engine light on ?

There is anther fuse box inside the vehicle.I'm just not positive exactly where,but there is one inside.Look around under dash on driver side with a flashlight,get on the floor board and look up.General Motors sometimes puts them at the end of the dash on drivers side.I have seen some located behind a cover,on the driver side lower dash.Just have to look.It's there.

I doubt it also. Shift Solenoids possibilityClogged CAT

Check the fuse

crank it and hold the gas for about 5 min then eventually the computer will jump on