20 Most Recent 2000 Chrysler 300M - Page 9 Questions & Answers

ticking noise can be a lifter /push rod /or rocker that needs adjusting or has been damaged from overheating [oil turns to sludge and can block oil passages in upper valve train ]or damaged from being out of time bent pushrod,flattened -collapsed lifter

check and make shure the fan is cuming on when it should, the coolant could simply be evaperating from the engin getting to hot

The fuel filter is not replaced except when the in tank electric fuel pump is replaced, it all comes as one piece. There is no "in line" filter. This is true of all late model Chrysler cars and trucks and vans.

You didn't give any info about how many miles are on this car. When was the last time the spark plugs were changed. I would think that if a coil was bad it would act up at all speeds not just over 2000 rpm. I would definately change plugs first, unless you just changed them, then go after the coil packs, fuel injectors, etc. Are you getting a check engine light?

Without checking its hard to say. It could be as simple as a poor oil filter. Or a bad sensor. Or the beginning of problems.

Is it the lid of the aire cleaner? That is held in place by tabs that are released with a little thumb pressure. Once released, swing the lid upward to reveal the air cleaner. If you want to remove the entire BOX, the lower portion of the box that is, it is held in place with a heavy rubber grommet that is held down with a small stud horizontally just above the exhaust manifold (add WD40 to lube it). I loosen this by prying the tab of the box upward with a small screwdriver. Once loose, then the box is helf in (again horizontally) on the fender. A light pressure pushing backward toward the firewall will release the box. Does that Help? lemmme know!

I've written on this many MANY times. On this model it can be an afternoon's outing by iteslf! The upper radiator mount must be removed, because there is NO other access I know of to get at it. Stand in front of the car and look down at the black plastic valance covering the front of the car and surrounds the hood latch. there are plastic pins that can be removed with a small screw driver that pop out. Get a plastic bag, label it and put the parts in there. Take off the valance and set it aside. NOW: the radiator support is all steel and must be removed with maybe a 13mm ratchet. there are about 6 or so bolts in all. watch carefully where everything comes from and put them in a marked bag too. on the driver side there are two smaller screw fr the washer bottle and the cruise control brackets. remove them too. Lift the radiator support off the car. The tops of the headlights are now exposed Each headlight has two LONG srews, one left and one right on each headlight. Put them in a bag. NOW Wrestle the headlight bucket out of its' nesting place and over the bumper (It is somewhat flexible, so be careful but firm when pulling them out. ) Don't scratch the paint! Once out, turn the outer rings ( They turn hard.) loosen and lift out the bulb from its socket.Make SURE you have the right bulb. When re-installing the new bulbs (replace them all at once) DON'T TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE BULBS WITH YOUR OILY FINGERS!! If you do and they get hot, they will POP! Then you'll have to do this all over again. Reinstall everything in reverse of dis assembly.

Have the purge system tested, and the regulator diaphragm looked at. also the lines, especially the quick disconnect lines up near the engine. You smell gas, but as the engine heats up, the gasoline evaporates and you don't see where it is coming from. This is dangerous in any case, not to mention smelly. The regulator is located in back of the engine (on top) near the throttle body. (just underneath it).Start the car and let it run for a couple of minutes. Stop the car, and using a flashlight and a good retractable mechanic's mirror, take a look for wetness.if the regulator (a small, flat inch and a half disk attached to the fuel line) is wet. have it replaced right away. The purge system canister can usually be tested by a good mechanic with the right equipment. You and I usually cannot do this ourselves.

Just for everyone's edification: There is a cooling system BLEEDER on top of the intake manifold in front of, and between the runners of the fuel injection plenum- that big, black, spidery looking thing on top of the engine. It is a 10MM bleeder that looks just like a brake bleeder. turn it counter-clockwise until all the air is gone and fluid runs freely. That should do it. Sorry dadhoosierg had to freeze to death before he got his answer... but it is good advice for the living. :)

Not too bad. Remove shifter handle, Pry up console top. remove side panels of console. Unbutton cabel from console base, follow under carpet to firewall of hole in the floor. Go under car and remove cable from ******. reassemble. On this one there is a small adjustment nut . Put it in Park with the key out of the ignition. rock the car to make sure it is in park. tighten the adjuster and test. It sound start in Nuetral and park easily and shift easily too. reinstall the console- and don't forget to replace the bulb as long as you are there!

VERY involved. The dash panel has to be removed, and the book says to unload the A/C before attacking this. lots'a sketches and plastic bags to put things in for ID'ing. Unless you've ripped out a dash panel before, be wary of this repair. Get a Chrysler shop manual to help.Good luck!

Press DOWN as you turn counter-clockwise. If it jams, turn it back clockwise and repeat counterclockwise and DOWN until it releases. Works every time! NECER open it while it is HOT. Let it cool down and check it or add fluid.

Upper: Piece of cake. Everything is right there in front of you. Bottom hose: WOW, real tight. I removed the serpentine belt and the upper shroud above the radiator to get down there. On the bottom it is darn near impossible to get at. I think the book also recommends removing the Power Steering pump- but if you go in frm the top, you should be okay getting it loose from the radiator. Once loose up top, then go under, remove the oil filter, and you can reach the other end on the goose neck fairly easy. HEY: and while you are there doing all this hard work, save yourself some aggravation and replace the thermostat and gasket, and change the oil too. Reinstall everything in reverse of dis assembly.

Follow the brake pedal up into the underside of the dashboard. There is a switch, likely a white or light colored switch with a small plunger touching the shaft of the pedal just before the pivot point. Unplug it. I thinnk there is just one small screw holding it in. If you know this is an issue with the switch, buy it first (why did I say that? Of course you would!) so you know exactly what it looks like before you embark on this. Lotsa light, lotsa patience and you can do it in a short time.

Standing in front of the car, looking at the engine: Passenger side: 1(closest to you) 3, 5(farthest away and toward the firewall. Driver side 2,4,6. Firing order: 123456!

300M? Front? Crawl under the front bumper and follow the wires. Turn the socket- nothe the wires counterclockwise until the socket releases from the back of the bezel. Gently pull the old bulb out, replace. reinstall in reverse of dis assembly. REAR? Open the trunk, peel back the carpet to display the plastic nuts holding the tail light assy in. Release the assembly and pull it off the fender. Turn each socket counterclockwise until the socket releases from the back of the bezel. Gently pull the bulb out of the socket. Re assemble in reverse of dis assembly.

The codes are in there in case someone steals your radio, of course, but the easy fix is to go to a dealer and let them do it for a few bucks. They need your VIN and proof you own the car... Then they can look it up and reset it. I know of no other way but maybe another FIXYA guy or girl knows a way...