2005 Audi A3 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

well i had thesame problem with my 1995 m A6. its the potentionmeter switch which sits on top of the engine and connects to the throttle assembly. if its not working then the gearbox wont change gears until very very late, easy to come off ..only 2 screws.

if a europeon build vehicle then its dealer only as europeon vehicles use encrypted software from this year onwards

The flasher is located on the dash above the radio, it is te same unit as the hazard switch.
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The most likely problem you have is a partially stuck open cooling system thermostat. The coolant is constantly flowing through the radiator, so its not warming up as required. This in turn will increase your fuel consumption considerably. The alternator needs to be removed to gain access to the front of the engine block where the thermostat is located. Its a fiddly job, but straight forward for a competent mechanic. Another common fault also related with the cooling system is a faulty coolant temperature sender. Again a straight forward part to replace if needed.
Hope this helps you.

coolant temp sensor or airline.

I had the same problem, replaced the coolant temp sensor for £15 and reset the warning light. 2004 1.6 SE. I'll never go back to Audi for a service. They might as well wear balaclavas.

I still have some problems with the idling but I can live with it (or until I know the real reason) - After £100 diagnostic and me suggesting to them what it might be they said they could do nothing. Surely by the number of comments about the same problem it must be a known fault!

HI, I had the same problem about 6 months ago. Replaced the coolant sensor as you suggested and it fixed the problem. (about £15 from a local shop - just click the old one out and the new one in, reset the warning lights with a friends VAG and the lights haven't come back.

I still get some idling problems (revving from around 600-1000 rpm) when sitting still and the engine is warm. I read also it might be a blocked air line or cam shaft sensor.....so much to look at!

I'll never go back to Audi though. £100 for a diagnostic and they didn't tell me anything I didn't already know but sometimes I guess you just have to bend over and take it ;)

take the chassis no to a dealer and ask for your spec of trim.as the paper sticker is for sad people like me who can read them.the lower end of trim models do NOT have this feature,(something else to go wrong)please remember,with AUDI you CAN buy a "basic"car and spec the trim how YOU want it.(in germany and the rest of Europe)

sounds like ignition key contacts inside in your switch worn might have to change switch

inside the back under the carpet you should have a paper sticker on the floor,top right chassis# under this is the engine #.OR on the side of the block facing you top right.

The warning light means there is a code waiting to be read.
There does not have to be anything wrong with the airbags themselves, for the system to be malfunctioning. It could be the inertial sensors. And yes it does have to be reset, but it is not really a computer. And a place like Autozone can easily read the codes and then reset them.

I had that and was told to turn the key back 1-2 mm after starting... worked for me.

SLIPS OUT OF GEARS CHECK THE SHIFT ROD ADJUSTMENT BOLT AND CLAMP THE BOLT COULD BE LOOSE OR.YOUR SHIFT ROD AND SHIFT FORK NEED ADJUSTMENT.

You may need to reset basic settings for the control module using a scan tool , reading the logged faults stored in the control module is needeed also .

factory fitted alarm/immobiliser,resetable with doorlock/key.not all fitted with interior sensors(different markets)to test lock (with drivers door window open)leave car for about a min then try opening door using inside door handle (pull lever).horn will sound intermitantly....to reset shut door and press lock button on remote.

front "A"pillar.pullaway cover.

They normally last long, they need to check that the rotor cup that the speed sender gets its signal from is not damaged and has the correct spacing. Also check for oil contamination from leaking cam seals.

I would think it would be far cheaper to repair this engine than to buy another one. Remove the head and see what damage was done. It may not be as bad as you think and you may only have a couple of bent valves or a busted piston. You won't know until you open it up.

there should be a key slot near or beside shifter lever push ignition key in slot push down on key pull back on shift lever.

Fuses for a/c located fascia end of dash driver side,diagram in cover
Check number 4 (10 amp)
number 16 (10 amp)
number 22 (40 amp)
number 40 (40 amp)

check fuel pressure, most likley fuel filter blocked.