2005 Audi A3 - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Possibly the gear inside the moyor is stripped.. OR The drive shaft at the motor is stripped or disconnected. .. stripped drive shaft most possible.

Pics on the box are worthless. Grab the owners manual, quick search will get you a PDF.

It might be the head gasket

WHAT IS THE PROBLEM EXACTLY?WIPERS DONT WORK?IS THE HOOD CLOSED???NEED MORE INFO TO HELP

NO !!!

sounds like you have a grounding issue possibly a main grounding location. inconsistant grounding of the vehicles control module will cause erratic behaviours. check under the hood for ground locations containing multiple grounds at 1 bolt location.if different "experts" have attempted repair and failed chances are they are all looking in the wrong place.dash{interior of vehicle}..actual cause.{egine compartment or under side of vehicle..ie...ground locations.}good luck and safe motoring:>

Code P0234 Check N75 boost control solenoid and all vacuum hoses to and from N75.If performance returns after brief ignition key cycling, Off /On.....check for vacuum to turbo dump valve canister.If performance is always low, check turbo vanes for sticking or 'snow screen' in snorkel to air filer is not restricted..

I have the same issue, I can't figure out with is causing it.... Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Buy a manual version ,autos always go wrong and this is no exception the gearbox is worn out they do not last for ever ,or trade it in quick

Volkswagen/Audi Group VAG has an odd and long standing relationship with a zero maintenance transmission fluid that is based mineral oil. The procedure to check is even stranger, car should be warm and running (for an automatic) on the bottom of the car there will be a combination drain plug with a screw in the middle. Removing that screw should result in about 1 cc fluid loss because here is a small pipe that goes up to the design fill level. To fill there is another plug up higher where you add fluid until it comes out that drain. Not fun.

have your chip checked

Sounds like you would like to know how to get a radio code because you're locked out of your MMI?If so, try entering your VIN here and generate your code. If that doesn't work you'll have to take it to the dealer:http://www.radio-code.co.uk/audi-radio-codes.html

i also have done a diagnostic test and it states a turbo overboost condition and it drives fine locally but loses power on the motorway and struggles to reach 80mph? any suggestions please email me at [email protected]

whats knocking and grinding while running while driving while idleing what where when??????

Throttle Actuator Control Module Performance

OBD2 programs won't normally read Audi's format enough to diagnose the problem or even communicate with the cars control module. may need to hook it to a laptap with Audi program to figure out the problem.

Thank you for asking me to help you with your problem. However, this is either not within my level of expertise or the question is unclear and I cannot help you at ths time.

If this is a Diesel engine, the glowplugs would be in a position like a sparkplug. You can replace them as you wish, or replace only the bad one. To determine if a glowplug is bad, you would remove it as you do a sparkplug on a gas engine.With several of the glowplugs removed, you would place a battery jumper cable on one end of the glowplug, while being careful not to damage its threads. That cable would be connected to the NEG battery cable. The remaining cable would be placed on the Positive(+) terminal of the battery and then you would briefly tough the POS cable to the top of the glowplug.Do this briefly. You can melt the part. But you need to see if the glowplug will glow. Often the problem with glowplugs is the Timer box. This is the box from where the wires come from to go to the glowplugs.If you have a glowplug staying dark, or failing to glow well, then it is a bad glowplug. Each should glow the same. That is why you check several at a time to tell what is normal.I work on Ford diesels and do not know what plastic covers you may have. So just follow the wires that are not on the fuel injectors and that is all you can possibly do.

Trace wire from fan to ground if pulling relay doesn't stop fan.

Check & replace if necessary the fuse no.# 5 - F5 (5A) = Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch, placed in the fuse box / relay plate fascia 1. See pictures below:





If the fuse F5 is OK check & replace if necessary the brake pedal switch placed above pedals on the support.