20 Most Recent 2005 Audi A3 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

On the inside trim, you can remove screws (these screws may be covered by filler pieces or may be visible, or they may require you pry a plastic piece off that covers the screws) that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect the wiring for your controls.

Volkswagen/Audi Group VAG has an odd and long standing relationship with a zero maintenance transmission fluid that is based mineral oil. The procedure to check is even stranger, car should be warm and running (for an automatic) on the bottom of the car there will be a combination drain plug with a screw in the middle. Removing that screw should result in about 1 cc fluid loss because here is a small pipe that goes up to the design fill level. To fill there is another plug up higher where you add fluid until it comes out that drain. Not fun.

NO !!!

In my experience with Audis, after any job requiring changing/draining the coolant the car ideally needs to be driven. With the coolant topped up to max drive the car, keep the revs up and shake the car with steering and over bumps where possible. Whatever you do make sure you take at least 2 litres of water/coolant with you, as as soon as the air lock goes, the level drops a lot and quickly. Also keep an eye on the temp gauge and avoid letting it go much over 90 degrees (over 90 on the gauge usually means its well into the hundreds) When you get consistant hot air through the heater, at idle, the level should of settled. If this doesnt work you may have thermostat issues or a blockage. Good luck, let me know how you get on.

Hi,

I just wondered if you have had this repaired yet and what was causing it as my Audi A3 2005 model has exactly the same problem!!

In response to bs77bird - the two things are definatley related. When i am stationary and the bonnet light is on neither my front wipers or my windscreen wash work. when im moving, my wipers do work, but my windscreen wash still doesnt. When the light turns itself off occasionally, both the wipers and windscreen wash work when im stationary and moving.

Any help would be great as i dont want to get ripped off for something i could potentially fix myself!

sounds like you have a grounding issue possibly a main grounding location. inconsistant grounding of the vehicles control module will cause erratic behaviours. check under the hood for ground locations containing multiple grounds at 1 bolt location.if different "experts" have attempted repair and failed chances are they are all looking in the wrong place.dash{interior of vehicle}..actual cause.{egine compartment or under side of vehicle..ie...ground locations.}good luck and safe motoring:>

Do you know if the engine timing is correct? If you get the timing a tooth out you very similar issues, has the cambelt been replaced recently - or is it over due??
Another posibility is the cam chain adjuster. This is oil pressure fed and I think controled by a solnoid, it applies a force between the chain that drives the inlet camshaft from the cambelt driven exhaust camshaft. (Making any sense? Let me know if you want me to simplify) This operating correctly advances and retards the valve timing, when faulty it can make it incorrect. Non start is a fault caused, but more often they become very noisey.
The cam chain adjuster is fed oil when the car is started, you can breifly here it before it has reached operating pressure on normal start up, sounds like a diesel knock for a second, then goes, this is normal. If it continues, its more than likely faulty.
Let me know if you want any more info. If the sensor and wiring is good you'll probably have a timing issue.

Code P0234 Check N75 boost control solenoid and all vacuum hoses to and from N75.If performance returns after brief ignition key cycling, Off /On.....check for vacuum to turbo dump valve canister.If performance is always low, check turbo vanes for sticking or 'snow screen' in snorkel to air filer is not restricted..

I have the same issue, I can't figure out with is causing it.... Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Buy a manual version ,autos always go wrong and this is no exception the gearbox is worn out they do not last for ever ,or trade it in quick

Sounds like it could be your alternator (the part which recharges your battery while you're driving.) If it's in the process of dying, it will still give a little power back, and it will seem to be doing it's job when you're in the shop, but after some driving, you'll lose power. If it isn't that, there's also a chance it could be you have a short somewhere which is draining your battery. 
I would get your alternator checked first.
I hope that helps.
Caid.

have your chip checked