20 Most Recent 2004 Volvo XC90 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

This is located under the drivers side leg area by the hood release latch...You will need one of the fuse tester/puller to find out which fuse is dead...

The cable can be manually released to access the engine compartment and can be purchased as a separate unit from such places as ebay and most foreign auto parts shop...

Check the following (in order):

• A/C system fuse / blower fuse (highest likelihood). Sometimes, you will find that the housing for the blower fuse has melted, indicating that the wires there have burned and require replacement.
• A/C blower relay
• A/C selector switch and fan switch
• Blower motor

Madelin, The main alarm system box is located in the right front fender. To access it you have to remove (drill out) the rivets holding the plastic wheel well cover in place under the fender. It is common for the battery in the alarm to die (and subsequently leak) rendering the alarm inoperative. For that reason it is probably not a good idea to buy a used alarm of the same age. Note, you should be able to buy the replacement rivets in a kit from Volvo.

What kind of noise? Check the muffler.

those Volvos must have gotten safer I would bet its a brain issue

James, I had the same problem with my XC90. First, open the sunroof, and pour a little bit of weater in the drain holes at the front of the sunroof opening. It should only take a few ml/oz to fill them up if they are clogged. Provided the drain is clogged, remove the handle on the pillar of the passengers side, (handle separating the windshield from the passengers door), Use a utility knife, or very small screwdriver to open up the plastic covers, which reveals the small bolts underneath. The handle will come off, anong with the pillar moulding, which will reveal the tubing from the sunroof drain. The end of the tubing fits into a hole in the metal pillar (sq hole I believe), and is made of a soft moulded rubber. This rubber (when removed from the hole in the pillar), has a "plus" shaped hole in it to allow the water to escape. This is where the colg will likely be. dirt, leaves, etc comes down this tube, and gets stuck in the small rubber pcs at the bottom. You can either clean this pc out, or what was suggested to me, was to cut a small pc off the end, to allow water to flow much easier. Just take a little off the end, not so much that it will not stay in place. After you have cleared the drain, and installed the tube back in place, test the drain from above agian, to ensure that this was the only clog. Water should run out on the ground within seconds of being poured into the drain holes at the front of the sunroof. (water should pour out at the bottom of the fender, ahead of the door hinges, and should not be visible in the vehicle)I would reccomend doing both sides, even if you do not see a problem with the drivers side. The entire process will only take you 20-40 minutes. An easy fix to a major problem. Worse than water on the floor, is that there are electronic complnents/sensors on the floor of the passengers side that can be affected by water. I have to repalce my YAW sensor, under the pass seat, because it has gotten wet, and now causes caution lights in the dash regarding stability control. Best of luck. Colin W

sorry but this is a very common problem and from now on change that fluid every 30k /we do and we dont have these problems ,that is the cold hard facts even if they told you it didnt need serviced

you mean the engine fan or the interior heater fan ? if the engine fan it must just be a coincedence or the fan was running on before, and you might not have noticed, and if you replaced the battery because it kept going flat the fan running on to long could be the reason ,the engine temp sender may be the fault as fan is designed to run on after engine turned off to cool down components,so i'd get the OBD codes read this will pinpoint the sensor/switch that is at fault, save you time and money,as a temp fix see if you can disconnect the wire to the fan when engine has cooled as the new battery will soon be toast , plug back in when starting engine again being carefull in case the fan cuts in straight away which would also point to temp sender switch, keep me posted if you wish

If the a/c runs for 10-15 minutes and then blows worm, it would not be the drain line. Check and see if the outside blower ( cooling ) fans are engaging. If they are not running, the unit will run into a high pressure overload and open power connection to the compressor. Also, you may want to check the Freon level.

Fix itmai Lor

IF it has one it will be in the low side line just behind the passengers side headlight. Volvo uses the pressostat valve to read the low side pressure via the diagnostic computer. IF it's a simple evac and recharge you only need the high side port. FYI, if it's low pay attention to the weld where the condenser and accumulator support attach. they're know to crack.

one of the modes or the temperate blend door/motor, if you ccan reach them, remove each one and check for one that flaps back and forth way to easily. the door usually breaks from the motor pivot causing it not to move when changing settings

While pulling on door handle, locate the metal latch on the door perimeter and pull on the 'loop' or curved tab and it should disengage.