20 Most Recent 2001 Volvo V70 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Check the owner's manual most cars have a manual release cable in the back.

What does it do? Does it crank over but not fire up?

I had a similar issue and started to notice other electrical failures along with the gas gauge. My rear doors would not lock and my rear wiper stopped working. I started pulling fuses and relays to see if this would reset, no go. But then I hit the jackjpot. In the rear electrical panel, below all the fuses and relays is a 2" x 2" black plastic square with a big screw in it.

Remove the screw and pull evenly on the black square. This seems to be a major electrical hub for the car. I reconnected and all 3 of my issues disappeared...I read somewhere that a fix might be to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, which I guess re-sets some relays and circuits, but I guess this did the same thing. Good luck.

Most oil/lube shops use a process of suctioning the old transmission fluid through the fill tube. On older cars, this process can damage the transmission since any metal fragments in the bottom of the transmission pan will be "sucked up" through the system. Since they won't perform the service properly (remove the transmission pan/filter and replace the filter). This is why they referred you to a dealer. Any transmission shop should be able to service your transmission. Best of luck!
Greg

Check the motor mounts, they tend to go bad on this vehicle. If they are ok, you may have a inner cv joint that is binding.

Bret

Possible fan relay defective/sticking. Try switching the relay with another of the same inside the relay box

Since he replace the reservoir, most likely it is the pump. These pumps have fiberboard vanes, so don't worry about replacing the rack. I don't know about your car, but if the pump is on top, labor is about an hour. If it on bottom, look at about 3 hours. I have done some that have taken every bit of 3 hours, all the parts that have to removed or dropping the frame. Don't get me wrong, I have worked on plenty of Volvo,s. But I work on everything and just do the job.

i also have a 99v70. As i was driving the car home 2 days ago in cruise control. Suddenly the speedo dropped to '0'. The cruise control quit and the abs, upshift arrow, and check engine light came on. The solutions is the 'abs control unit' From Volvo; 870.00from Advance; 256.00 w/ core exchange. Its fixed all those dash issues.good luck

usually caused by failed generator. Fix the generator and other lights will also extinguish. The car should jump start, but will not stay running without a charged battery. Recommend removing the generator and take to parts store for testing. Would you like instructions for removing generator?

You have an engine misfire....unless you have expertise in this area you need to see your local shop as you will damage your catalytic converter if you continue to drive. An OBD II scan tool will id the cylinder to help but knowledge here is key!!

Sounds like your car doesn't like bumps!

The abs control modules on these fail regularly due to breaks in the circuit board solder joints. It could be that hitting the bump make the fault occur. There are places that will repair them, however you will need to remove it, or have it removed and send it to them to fix it, or you can replace it.

Either way, you'll need to get the problem diagnosed first., starting by reading out the faults in all the systems. The transmission, cruise control and speedometer all rely on a vehicle speed sensor signal from the abs module, so that is why so many systems are affected.

Bret
RepairPal.com

if your car uses dot 4 brake fluid it is compatable with dot 3 fluid.if it requires dot 5 then the fluid will have to be changed and possibly flushed as dot 5 is not compatable with dot 3 or4 fluid.at any rate it will not cause the abs light to come on if its not dot 5,as the wrong fluid mix can cause seal swell in the system which could cause the abs light to come on.

This can be caused by the breakdown of the newer long life coolants, the early formulations broke down and do this exactly as you described, have the tank cleaned and flush the system and refill with the newer coolant that doesn't break down and turn to goo.

If they're drums could be rust on the drum rubbing on the backing plate, or a loose brake component rubbing inside the drum.

I m not sure of the direct location in the engine bay..But just a bit of information for you ... My friend had a Volvo v70 and it threw a code he replaced the purge solenoid and it still coded... come find out there was a split in the hose that comes off the canister under the car...There was no protection or shield for this hose and it was hard and full of road dirt and rust.

It should be on a sticker right in front of the radiator. If it is not there call the auto parts with the vin.# and the can tell you the engine size.

Check the wiring to the rear hatch. The cables break and cause a variety fo problems like yours. You will have to take the plastic cover off and expose the cables.

I take it you did not replace the PCV System. I would almost guarantee that you have a massive vacuum leak in that system. IPD has it for sale on their website and show a picture of the system outside the engine compartment so you will know what to look for. You will have to pull the Manifold again to do it.

Remove the Hubs from the Axle and take them to a Shop with a Press.