20 Most Recent 2003 Subaru Outback - Page 9 Questions & Answers

there is a switch on the steering column top dead center rocks foward and back, that's for just parking lights, yours is in the on position

Since it is a horizontally opposed four cylinder engine, the spark plugs are basically installed the same way (horizontal to the ground, in line with the pistons) Two are on the left, two are on the right. The coilpacks replace the conventional spark plug wires. You will need to remove the coilpacks to access the spark plugs. You will also have to remove the intake airbox to reach the left two spark plugs, and you will have to remove the windshield washer fluid reservoir to reach the other plugs. This is very time consuming... the right tools make it much easier. Make sure you get the oem replacements, otherwise your car may not run well.

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There is also a switch that will not let it engage if the system is low on refrigerant. It is on the evaporator. Have the system checked to make sure it is full to save yourself alot of headaches. Good luck and have a good day.

try autozone.com to see if they have your car listed for diagrams pictures and step by step instructions if your car is not listed then try your local library they have all the car manuals and even copy them for you

I think your model vehicle is subject to 2 recalls. The first is to have the ECM reprogrammed and the second is for a cruise control clip. Both of these recalls exist for sure and may be a good place to start. You can check on "MySubaru.com (you will have to register) to see if your vehicle is affected. If the ignition was replaced having the ECM reprogrammed and the keys programmed might fix the issue. May fix the cruise control as well.

Here is a quick try for you that works for me. Push the handle and make sure it is all the way returned to the closed position. Then try the lock, power or key. Then try and open. I have found that if the handle does not return to closed position it will not allow the lock to operate. Hope this helps and have a great day.

check spark plugs. Failing that get back to me with more details. I am guessing that one of the spark plugs are not doing what they are supposed to do.

Bad or worn out tire, bent wheel, missing wheel weights are the three main causes. That is where I would start. Any tire store will be able to help you.

Disconnect the wires going to the spring loaded switch in your hatchback.

You have a bearing or a brake problem. Either requires the attention of a good repair shop or a dealer.
Bearings may need to be replaced or lubricated (no expert here); if brakes, it is likely warped rotors which will need to be replaced and do the pads as well. Prepare for a $200-300 bill.

Hi,
This is a SPECIALIST fix. Seek the advice of a QUALIFIED automotive airconditioner mechanic because if you get this even part way wrong, it's going to cost you plenty.

Your A/C system does NOT require any oil as say the motor, or power steering or such. I'd be interested to know what is behind your question, if you care to elaborate on your problem, I might be able to give you more to go on.

Regards

Paul

Hi,
Have a '03 2.5 Premium Outback and same thing happened. Easy fix this one, it's a flat battery....inside the black case on the end of the key. go to your local Tandy or similar store and buy a CR 1620 battery. Then with a very fine jewelers phillips head screwdriver undo the small black screw at the base of the chrome key shaft. Then carefully and gently pry open the two halves of the black plastic part of the key. The round silver disc inside is the battery. Pry it out and put it in your pocket, (so you don't mix it up with the new one!!!!) and fit the new battery with the numbers etched in the battery facing down. Put the two halves back together, fit the screw back in (most important), then point it at your car. Wallah!
A new battery shouldnt cost anymare than a few bucks, and do both key remote's at the same time, regardless of use, because the batteries are the same age.
Regards

Paul

Hi, sit in middle seat facing forward. If seatbelt is mounted in roof over your right shoulder, the clip on the end of the seatbelt clips in down by your right hip. Then the 'free' clip clips in by your left hip in to one of the two seatbelt clips. If you have done it right you should have a lap/sash configuration with the belt form the roof running over your right shoulder. The roof belt is also 'inertia reel' and behaves the same as all the other belts. To get out of the seat belt undo the 'free' or middle point clip only. When you have finished altogether, press key in to end clip lock and store back in the roof.
If you have problems getting clips in to holders press the release tab on the holder.
Hope that helps.

Paul
Australia

The reason for the compressor cutting out is because the system preasure is too high, or at least it thinks it is,poss causes fans not efficient, preasure switch faulty reading, overcharged system/

I had this problem and it was because I tried to fill the system myself and I did two things wrong.  One, I had the pressure too high.  Subaru preasors are lower than a lot.  Two, I got air in the line and it was causing this.  I took my Subaru back to a certified mecanic who put my a/c system on a vacuum  for an hour them preasurized it properly and it took the problem away and it works great.

You have Parasitic Draw. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29903527-parasitic_draw_car_batteries ..

I fixed one of these recently in a 2003 Outback. The brake light pedal switch feeds the circuit that releases the shift lever lock when it's in Park. (This is why you need to press the brake pedal to shift out of Park.) If the fuse to this circuit is blown, the shift level lock will not release. I traced the issue to the trailer light conversion box (factory/dealer installed, I think). This car has a clear plastic plug that the trailer light conversion box plugs into and the clear plastic plug appears to be a factory-installed part of the wiring harness, accessed on the passenger side of the car, just above the spare tire compartment behind the rear quarter interior panel (you don't need to remove the interior panel to access, just all of the spare tire compartment foam pieces). I've seen these conversion boxes fail before or the wires become shorted somewhere between this internal connection and the trailer pig tail connection end. I unplugged the box from the car's wiring harness at the clear plastic plug mentioned above and the fuse stopped blowing, the brake lights starting working again as well as the turn signal lights and the shift lever unlocked by pressing the brake pedal. This car doesn't tow so it wasn't a problem but you might need to investigate further or replace the conversion box if you need the tow lights connection to operate still.

Most vehicle makers tend to use the same system. The seats are mounted on a pair of slide rails. These are held down by 2 bolts on each rail, one at each end, (one front end and one at the rear end). These bolts are usually covered by a small plastic trim cover that either slides off or unclips to reveal the bolt heads. *** Note * The seats will be heavy so be careful lifting them out.*** It is easiest to unbolt either both rear bolts or both front bolts at the same time as you will probably need to slide the seat for access. I find doing the rear bolts first then the front pair is the easiest method for easier access. There will also be some electrical connectors under the seat for the sensors to be disconnected. Refitting is just as straight forward.

Some fixya user told me a website reliable-store it is very good.. I used it to repair my shredder it had some spark issue which wasn't easily fixed. you can go there and try